Exactly, the paper i pasted from describes the same phenom you have been describing for over 10 years. I have always raged that the big greenhouse media suppliers claim that 30% perlite into a peat is a high porosity mix. And so many growers prefer short squatty containers [helpful for blow over prevention but nothing else] Container Geometry is almost as important as the mix. i remember in 1984 I took a 400 level greenhouse management course at University of Delaware. The prof soaked a rectangular sponge and held it by the edges parrallel to the sink flatwise and let water drain, then he rotated the sponge on the shorter vertical axis and more water drained, when that free drainage ended he then rotated the sponge vertically in it tallest plane and more water drained. When I read your suggestion about using a draping shoelace as draining wick to lower the PWT the distance of the wick, I shouted YES at the elegant simple brilliance. In 1977 I grew a marijuana plant in a milk crate full of gravel, the stalk was over 2 inches in diameter [no different than growing in glass.] BTW, in your gritty mix what are the ratios and actual particle size for each component? I would think to use slightly larger particle sizes than i think you were using and i would probably consider using zeolite or a calcined DE or calcined clay. BTW, Ep minerals makes several absorbents both DE and Clay, Calcined or regular as various spill absorbers available in any auto parts store. 5o pounds for about 10 dollars. Don''t know the particle sizes but likely need to be screened to eliminate the fines. The clays are generally calcium bentonite and not sodium bentonite so less sodium and less swelling. I beileve Arcillite and Tuface are calcium bentonites. I was just thinking that decomoposed granite and even bark add no water holding capacity but with DE and Proper sized ceramics you could add more waterholding capacity but still maintain the airspace. The airspace in the ep mineral clay was pretty low when I measured it last, but I did not screen it. Somewhere I have a spreadsheet with AFP, WHC, TP, TPv, etc for over a dozen components and mixes. I have run quite a few in both 16 oz and taller 32 oz cups, [1 liter exactly when filled to rim overflow which makes that size intuitively easy for all the math. I think i found your posts about 3 years ago and then lost them. Am I correct in thinking you have some water release curve data around somewhere. Someone posted some WRC showing that Axis DE or perhaps the Axis clay media held huge amounts of water but easily released over 75% to the plant. TI can not find that post. I was actually searching for Vertical hydraulic conductivity, Capillary Rise and Capillary rate and wicking when your links showed up. The axis DE is like $90 a bag for 50 pounds so i think I could more cheaply reproduce from other products but have to screen. where I live in idaho, there is a Celatom DE plant less than 60 miles away, 2 zeolite mines, a sodium bentonite mine, WHC and Airspace mid 20s in the 2 larger particle sizess. Also the best white pumice [Hess] source mine a few hours away. I had hoped better water holding capacity. I plan on rerunning all the mixes again in a few months now that i have more standardized my process using multiple cup sizes, some of them tamped or shaken to settle, some top watered, some bottom water, measure distance of subsidence if any. I also have a vegetronix tensionometer now and will take additional measures at various depths to measure the exact tension and also verify depth of pWT which i can usually see through the transparent cups if I use a marking dye and saturate from below. Anyway I will share those spreadsheets in the near future If i were to guess, you have some sort of plant and soil science background or some civil engineering background and a love for plants. At any rate, your explanations and examples are some of the best I have ever come across, and your shoelace suggestion is brilliant, truly. i read so much WRONG advice or the wrong analysis for reason why something works or does not work. it is refreshing to come across accurate information Garret Goyette

Thanks Jay. I look at it this way, whatever going to make it through this winter will probably not going to die anytime soon and this kind of freak weather probably won't occur for another 10 years so there's no where to go but up from here. I'm not too bum about it. I noticed your imbe, their looking good. I also have one too. It is quite cool tolerant. Read somewhere that it is graft compatible with a mangosteen but haven't been able to confirm it yet. Also what is the name of the pineapple your growing there? Red, have you tasted the capulin cherry before? I had some before and wasn't really pleased by it.

Hello Tealgarden, I have a couple of Wax Jambus too and I wouldn't worry about what you are seeing. I would say it is either from transplant shock or the cold weather. Both of mine are like 4'-5' feet tall and lose almost all their leaves each year due to the cold. The turn brown, get that same dried up look and spotting, and then fall off. However, they are extremely resilient plants, probably the most resilient plants I have and always bounce back every spring with more leaves, flowers, and fruit than the year before. I think your plants are just fine and will bounce back. Keep them out of full sun for the time being while they are recovering/adjusting. You should see tons of new leaves within the next couple of weeks as the weather warms. - Jacob

Dragonking, wax jambu does self pollinate, many times it just produces seedless fruits. I used a potting mix of about 50/50 mulch and peat moss. I would keep the soil moist at all times, just not soaking wet. It appears to handle inconsistent watering well when it is only leafing. If it is a young plant, the fruits appears to split easily with inconsistent watering. Avorancher, most varieties tend to bloom at least twice a year here, once early in the year and another later. But can bloom several times a year. From the time the bloom opens to ripe fruit is about 3 months, which I think is rather quick for most fruits. In the last month is when fruits begin to ripen. There is a belief that adding sugar around the plant helps makes most fruit trees sweeter but I don't know how true this really is, even my grandma believes it also. Mostly sweetness will depend on cultivar, "Black Pearl" I have heard is a good red skin one, most of the white skin cultivars also tend to be sweeter than the red ones too.