Trying new seed starting mix

15 years ago

I gave up on seed starting mixtures years ago because the ones I tried were so hard to initially wet, actually repelling water and having very poor wicking properties. I switched at the time to Miracle Grow Moisture Control potting soil which wet and wicked like a champ, but seemed rather heavy and had a lot of large debris in it. My germination was acceptable and no seedlings ever died, but always I felt I should get better germination than about 60%.

This year I am trying a new approach. I sifted the MG Moisture Control potting soil through a 1/4 inch screen to remove the large debris, then mixed it 50/50 with their seed starting mix. The result is a cleaner, lighter, and fluffier blend that wets and wicks very nicely. So far so good - now I'll see if germination and growth improves.

TomNJ

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Comments (6)

sprtsguy76
15 years ago
I tried making my own seed starting mix this year. I wont do that ever again. When you have peat and perlite there is really nothing there to supplement the seedlings. I dont like feeding seedlings with ferts because its easy to over fertilize, so I like to use something that is light but will carry the seedling through the seedling process. So I went back to my favorite seedling/starter mix which is Light Warrior from Fox Farms. I dont know why I tried to make my own seed starting mix when I get such great results with Light Warrior. Plants now look dark green and healthy as can be.

Damon
bluemater
15 years ago
wcthomas...the water ran off of the first mixture because it was really peaty and didn't have a wetting agent added...try Hoffman's or Thompson's seed starting mixes...Gardener's Supply has a really great seed starting mix too...

Here is a link that might be useful: Gardener's Supply
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Is Seed starting mix the same as potting mix/soil?
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No, seeds starting mix is finer so that roots do not get torn up when you pull seedling apart when separating community flats/pots. It is mostly vermiculite peat moss and a bit of lime/dolomite to adjust pH. Potting mix is coarser and usually contains composted materials such as pine bark and other (originally) woody materials, often with a fluffer such as perlite or styrofoam, and lime/dolomite for pH adjustment. It can be used for starting seeds if you are not planning on pulling the plants out of the mix (I use it for starting everything). Potting soil is often much denser/heavier because it contains actual soil, I have seen it advertized for things that are to be permanently grown outside in containers like shrubs in planters, but someone else might have more info on this than me. Potting mix is usually better for most things than potting soil. For all of them you would have to check the bag to see if they contain starter fertilizer.
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That's the thing.... Humidity in my area of northern California is below 20 percent right now....very dry. With the ceiling fan and the sunny windows, one would suspect that I'd be watering often. In other parts of the world, with more humidity and more gloom, one would think that a porous mix would be *even more important* than it is here. I can understand folks desiring a more moisture retentive mix for the Summer season....but not for the Winter. I'd rather water slightly more often in the Summer, in order to have the perfect mix for the Winter when the real problems face those of us in more northerly climes. Josh
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I'll try to answer some of your questions and you'll find additional information in the many FAQs over on the Growing from Seed forum here. First 3 factors cause damp-off: too wet, too warm, and stagnant air. If those factors exist it won't matter what you use or do with your potting mix. Second, most all potting mix is sterile enough when you get it as a result of the "making it" process. But the fungus that causes damp-off exists in the air as well as the soil so you could bake your soil (which I do NOT recommend) and 20 mins. later it could be contaminated again. But even if the fungus is present in your mix, it can't do anything, it remains dormant, without the proper conditions as described above. So what you have to do is control/prevent those conditions. Use a fan to increase air circulation around the plants, once germinated, lower the air temp around the plants as they much prefer cooler growing conditions anyway, and don't over-water. when do I water again after sowing? No one can tell you that. Assuming your potting mix is well moistened prior to planting you may not need to water again until after germination. Or you may have to water several times. It all depends on so many factors there just isn't any way to put it on a set schedule. Simply put it is keep the soil very slightly moist until germination and then water ONLY when the potting mix is dry, not just the surface, but the container. I have no idea what the "very tiny cells made up that card-boardy material" are. ;) Sorry. If you mean you are using peat pots of some kind (never seen any that small though) then that is a good part of your problem because of their water-wicking problems discussed in detail in many posts here. As another poster said not too long ago - "I have no idea why those things were even invented" and I agree. If it is some other sort of cardboardy thing could you post a link to them? Using only foam or plastic containers eliminate all those problems. So baking soil is a very stinky waste of time. Focus on air temperatures, air circulation, and much less watering instead. Hope this helps. Dave
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containerted
15 years ago
WC, I'm with you. I, too, used the Miracle Grow Seed Starter and combined with their mix. I also sifted out the larger material from "BOTH". Yes, there were a few pieces in the starter mix that bothered me. Sifting both together helped with getting a smooth mixture of the two. I have 300+ seedlings and so far have only one casualty due to physical damage caused by me. My germination rates this year are at 89% and that include a lot of older seeds - some going back to the year 2000.

Ted
miesenbacher
15 years ago
Don't mess with the mixes to start my seeds. This year I went from the Jiffy 7's to the "Jump Start 81". Like Jiffy 7's but a better mix than standard Peat. Also am trying "Root Riot" starter cubes made from organic materials and fully biodegradable with a sponge like texture.
I'll second the "Light Warrior" which is what I use to transplant my seedling with to 4" CowPots. When they are ready to set out I plant the CowPot/seedling and no Transplant shock. Done deal. Ami
jel7
15 years ago
I sift MG seed starting mix through a 1/4 inch mesh,

then, re-sift a little through a 1/16 inch mesh which
I use to sift (with a kitchen sieve) over seed containers to lightly cover seeds. This does a nice job.

I located the 1/16 inch mesh at a "big time" well stocked
hardware store and purchased it by the foot. It was difficult to locate.

Most bagged products contain large wood/trash particles.

John
californian
15 years ago
You can save money by filling the bottom of your pots or seed starting tray with cheap coarse potting mix, and only use the expensive fine seed starting mix to cover the seeds. Sometimes I cover my seeds with pure vermiculite. It is very easy for the seedlings to push their way through it.

Trying new seed starting mix

Comments (6)

sprtsguy76

bluemater

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containerted

miesenbacher

jel7

californian

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