Sweet 100 vs. Super Sweet 100 vs. Sweet Million
yumtomatoes
12 years ago
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acadia78
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Yams vs Sweet Potatoes
Comments (48)Poor sweet potato! It has a serious naming problem. Not only does it get stuck with the name of some OTHER tuber that's not even remotely related either botanically or taste-wise (I too have tasted "real" yams, and they're not much like sweet potatoes at all)... ...but they also got their "proper" name STOLEN by a certain tuberous nightshade plant! I heard that the word "potato" originally referred to Ipomea batatas, then was later used used as a more general term for root or tuber vegetables, and then later somehow got stuck on Solanum tuberosa, so that people felt that the original potato had to now carry the qualifier "sweet", even though not all varieties of Ipomea batatas are sweet. Though I guess it's bad enough calling the other potatoes "Irish potatoes", when they're from South America, or calling them "white potatoes" when not all of them are white and some sweet potatoes are white. Basically... we need better words for things. :-P...See MoreSilver queen sweet corn vs Johnson grass.
Comments (4)I believe I remember reading about Dorothy's Johnson grass experiences (at least some of them) in her book. : ) I pull out or dig out all I can. The hand-pulling is really easy with any Johnson grass that has just recently sprouted from seed. With plants sprouting from rhizomes, I have to dig. Then, I crawl on my hands and knees along the rows of corn with my Fiskars garden scissors in my hands about once a week and cut off the Johnson grass as close to the ground as I can. The more you keep the topgrowth clipped back short, the more you weaken it since there aren't any (or many) leaves above ground conducting photosynthesis and sending energy to the plant roots. Johnson grass is and always has been my number one garden problem. I dig out all I can every year, and I rototill the remainder on purpose to break up the rhizomes into a million pieces in winter. If you leave them exposed on the surface of the ground, they can dehydrate and then freeze if the weather is cold enough. I will repeatedly rototill and rake out all the pieces of rhizomes I can find in winter. We are in our 15th year here and I still have Johnson grass issues in the big garden, but probably only about 10% of what I once had. Last Sunday I pulled out seedling Johnson grass from my rows of Silver Queen, Country Gentleman and Early Sunglow Corn. Then I dug out the plants that had come back from rhizomes. This is only our second year to grow corn in this area, and there's not much Johnson Grass at all now compared to last year. However, this is a sandy soil area and I can dig pretty deep and get out a lot of the rhizomes. In our big garden where the soil is mostly clay, it is more of a battle. If you rototilled your soil before planting the corn, you might have Johnson grass seedlings that sprouted from seed in the soil. It would take a while, but you could dig themout. If you rototilled or plowed and broke up existing Johnson Grass rhizomes into billions of smaller pieces, and then you didn't rake them out, then there isn't much you can do except cut them off to keep them short so they will weaken. It is easier to tell the corn from the Johnson grass once they are 6-8" tall. Before we moved here, I thought bermuda grass was the worst stuff on earth after battling to keep it out of garden beds in Fort Worth. After moving here, I quickly learned that bermuda grass is a lazy wimp compared to Johnson grass. Johnson grass is bermuda grass on steroids. Eventually the corn gets tall enough and casts enough shade that it will outcompete the Johnson grass but you can help ensure that by cutting back the Johnson grass. If you spaced your corn plants really widely apart, you can use a string trimmer to cut only the Johnson grass. You could use a cheap foam paintbrush to brush a grasskiller type herbicide onto the Johnson grass, but don't get it on the corn! Be careful and read the label carefully if you use any of the herbicides mentioned in the link that Scott has in his response. Some herbicides that work on Johnson grass in corn fields only work on popcorn or field corn and will damage or kill Johnson grass. If you had planted Roundup Ready corn (available only to commercial growers as far as I know), you could have sprayed the whole field with Round-up and the corn would have been fine. However, I am not recommending that...just saying that is how commercial growers often do it. Unfortunately, the heavy use of RR corn varieties now has given us Johnson grass in some nations and in some states (including Arkansas) that now is tolerant of glyphosate type herbicides. If you didn't have a crop in the field, regular mowing will get rid of the Johnson grass (same mechanism as allowing goats to graze it---having the top growth removed repeatedly weakens it) but the issue is that you do have a crop in the field. Johnson grass is probably the #1 reason gardeners in my county give up gardening. You see it every year. They decide to have a garden. They plow up the ground or rototill it and immediately plant. They ignore those little grass plants that start sprouting. By June, those little sprouts of Johnson Grass are taller than the rest of the garden, including being taller than the corn and taller than the tomato plants. The gardeners try to pull out the grass and discovers it has rhizomes that run for feet and that are as big around as their index finger. They abandon the garden before the Fourth of July and let the Johnson grass win. They do this for multiple years before deciding that gardening isn't fun. Don't let this happen to you. When a gardener abandons a garden full of Johnson grass, it grows until it sets seed, and then you have to deal with a ton more Johnson Grass next year. With consistent effort, you can get rid of it. Don't let it defeat you. On the other hand, if you are in a rural or semi-rural area where there likely is a raccoon population, and if your garden isn't fenced, just relax. Johnson grass won't be a problem, but the coons will be. They will harvest the corn for you about 3-5 days before it is ready for you to harvest it, and they'll tear up all the cornstalks for you, leaving only the Johnson grass, growing happily and quite healthy. At that point, having lost the corn crop to the coons, you can spray the Johnson grass with a herbicide if you wish, and then plant corn in mid-summer for a fall harvest. Dawn...See MoreSweet 100 Cherry Tomatoes Yellowing
Comments (9)Ah ha ! So we understand each other and agree on the one getting over watered. I don't think it's in danger of death, but it's going to be ugly in the middle there and depending on how the root health is, probably a little more finicky to water. I would make myself a nice stepping stone spot right next to it, so as I water and I'm already tired, it's easy to step close and poke my finger in the soil to double check moisture. I make up my own soil mixes so not an expert on the one you bought. I know folks do use those types and are happy. I did pick up two bags of pre-mixed moisture control potting mix only because they were on sale, had a coupon, cost ended at $5, and I had a $5 rebate for each one. So free ! Used on as part of mixes for fuchsias and the other bag still sits. I don't trust our Oregon rain with such a mix. But that's me. I know I might over water so try to head things off ahead of time. Given how thirsty grown tomatoes are in pots, it doesn't seem like a particularity bad mix. It may be that the drain holes in that pot, and between the moisture control mix, plus the drain hole issue, plus the on the ground all added up to what happened. One or two of those things might have been fine, but three was too much when the rain and you with the hose all ganged up on the plant For a brand new gardener things look good. :) Lots of little tomatoes there too. Have you checked the FAQs for this group yet. Good basic fertilizer answers there. But you know, if this is the worst thing you do as a new gardener, your golden. LOL This post was edited by plaidbird on Sun, Jul 20, 14 at 16:15...See MoreSweet Million vs. Riesentraube ?
Comments (8)What Michael refers to above is production, and what interests me more is taste. Riesentraube has the capacity to form huge blossom clusters, that is, a single stalk with up to several hundred blossoms on that one stalk, and there can be many such stalks on the plant; the trait is called the multiflora trait. From those hundreds of blossom usually about 30-40 will set fruits. Will every plant do so? No, the blossom clusters will be smaller, but most will form those huge clusters and I've linked to Google IMAGES below to illustrate that multiflora trait. The variety name as translated from the German means large bunch of grapes. Sweet Million and the variety Sweet 100, both hybrids, are typical flat cluster varieties. The difference for me is taste. Riesentraube is not an overly sweet variety, and has more of a taste like a good beefsteak, while Sweet Million and Sweet 100 are varieties that both give quite sweet fruits. I've grown all three and in my experience there wouldn't be that much difference as regards fruit production, but there's a big difference when it comes to taste. If you want fruits that are sweet, then grow Sweet Million or Sweet 100. If you want a cherry tomato that tastes more tomatoey and less sweet then try Riesentraube. Carolyn, whose preference is Riesentraube Here is a link that might be useful: Riesentraube fruit clusters...See Moreyumtomatoes
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