Not positive...but possibly anthracnose? Google to see if that is what you may have...also if it was mine I would bring an affected leaf to a reliable nursery and have them take a look at it for a better diagnose...there are a lot of tropical fruit nurseries in your area...Good luck!! I'm sure they will be able to tell you what it is and what treatment to apply.

thanks so much for you quick response Joan. I had thought is only occured on fruit, so I went looking. You are right it gets the leaves too. here is a pic http://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/nelsons/mango/mango_anthracnose_leaves_2.jpg thanks again, -Ethan

Could be a common fungus common to Mango trees, called anthracnose. In this case a fungicide with copper is helpful. I have the same problem and spraying makes a difference. Keeping debris cleaned up under the tree and providing good circulation helps this from spreading, too. Happy New Year! Hopefully we will have some tasty mangoes for 2014.

Hi Sharon: Glad to hear from you. What's the name of that beautiful blushing white rose that you posted? I love that picture !! Munstead Wood is Seaweed's best bloomer in alkaline CA, versus stingiest Lady Emma. Seaweed has alkaline soil and water. If your Munstead Wood is grafted on Dr. Huey, it can takes alkalinity well. One approach is mixing 2 tablespoon of gritty lime with 2 teaspoons of granular sulfate of potash (NPK 0-0-50), or chopped up banana peels (0-3-42). Calcium is best balanced with equal amount of potassium. Potassium is needed for disease-prevention. When I first moved here to rock-hard-alkaline clay, pH 7.7, my neighbor planted a dozen roses grafted on Dr. Huey, and watered with our pH 8.3 hard-water. His was blooming non-stop, 100% clean, vigorous, he was cutting blooms every day. I was puzzled: I had just moved from acidic clay, with wimpy BS-fest, stingy roses Went out to check my roses after all-night & all morning rain (12 hours): The roses with 1/4 cup gritty lime & 2 teas. sulfate of potash are clean: W.S. 2000, Golden Celebration, and Romantica Sweet Promise. The 5-bands in pots with compost & few red lava rocks & Milorganite are 100% clean. The rose in the ground & poor drainage heavy clay with the most Milorganite, Wise Portia, has B.S., most likely from the salt in Milorganite (sewage sludge), NPK 5-2-0. Milorganite with 4% iron is great for bands in fast-draining pots, but NOT best for roses that don't need much iron, or for poor-drainage clay that retains salt. One lady killed over a dozen rose bushes by using Mills' Magic Mix every month on her roses in hot summer. Mills Magic Mix has Milorganite for its nitrogen and phosphorus. Since my heavy clay retains salt too well, I'm going back to alfalfa (NPK 2-1-2) with less phosphorus & more potassium, zero salt. I'll buy alfalfa hay or pellets, rather than alfalfa meal, because it's slower-release & cheaper. I'll put gritty lime (pH 9) or COMPOSTED horse manure (pH 8) on top of alfalfa, so no pest nor fungi can germinate on acidic alfalfa, pH 5.7. Sewage sludge is high in salt, OK for lawn or fasting-draining pots, but not best for roses in heavy clay. In my experiments, roses break out in fungal diseases when they are stressed out, such as: 1) salt as in manure & Milorganite 2) standing wetness from poor-drainage 3) too much acid, like my lowering tap water with lemon juice 4) harsh chemicals, like MiracleGro soluble with high NPK 5) too much phosphorus, as in the bagged cow manure. Hi Jim: I agree that Rose Midge can come from elsewhere, such as Peter Schneider's comment in his book that horse manure gave his garden rose midge. Peter grows over 1,000 roses in Ohio, sandy soil. Most likely last year's FRESH horse manure (with tons of mushrooms and decayed straws) gave my roses rust. This year zero rust, despite early summer's 1-month rain. NO horse manure this year. At first I thought too much gypsum on top induced rust, but I tested that recently, putting a wad of gypsum on my smallest rose, Angel Face. Its leaves became wilted just like Crimson Glory did with gypsum-topping. The wilting is from the 17% sulfur in gypsum, that stuff burns my finger, plus corroded the metal scoop. Earthworm hates gypsum and sulfur. I prefer Encap Dry Compost to break up my hard clay, rather than gypsum. The holes with too much gypsum, like my 2nd tomato-bed: not much fruits on those tomatoes .. excess calcium drive down potassium. Potassium is necessary for blooming, disease-prevention, and drought-tolerance. Those tomatoes are the most wilted in this hot August. Thank you, Jim and Sharon, for posting in this thread. Finally found the best site with pics. to identify plants' deficiencies ... great reference, see below link: Here is a link that might be useful: Best site to identify nutrient deficiencies in plants This post was edited by Strawberryhill on Tue, Aug 5, 14 at 16:51