Mango Grafting Poly vs Mono

11 years ago

Hello,

I'm extremely new to gardening/planting, but I've done a lot of reading on planting mangoes. However, I haven't really found out a nice solid yes or no answer. Most responses I've seen is between, which is Nes, or Yo.

Last year I bought 5 mangoes from Wal*Mart and decided to grow them. I purchased them the first week of November.I've always been a fan of the Mango fruit and I'm hoping to have a few trees in my own yard someday.

Here is the dilemma. The 5 seeds I've planted only 2 are really taking off. One is about a foot high with its 4th set of leaves. The second is about 9-10 inches with its 2nd set of leaves. The stock has a width of a pencil and from my personal research I believe it's almost time to graft them. I personally believe it's too late to do grafting, so I'll let them grow until December of this year.

Back to my issue...

I want to know if it's okay to graft from my 1 foot Monoembryo sprout to my other 9" Monoembryo sprout. I've read that it's best to use a polyembryo as the stock and use a monoembryo as the scion. I've also read that it's the other way around. This is the Nes and Yo answers I've been getting. All I want is to be able to walk outside a few years from now and eat a nice mango that tastes like I bought it from Wal*Mart.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (3)

Doglips
11 years ago
This is like saying which one of my children is going to be better at football?
One may be more genetically suitable as rootstock. I would say the more vigorous seedling has the edge, but I wouldn't hold hard and fast to that.
The same thing with the scion, the tree that produces the most delicious fruit and is the hardy disease-pest resistant tree is the one you want to use. Usually seedlings don't do this (this is why most are grafted), mono or poly, but every once is a great while you come up with a new cultivar that everyone wants.
mangodog
11 years ago
Yeah, lots of questions when one starts to get in to this....but I didn't understand the "I personally believe it's too late to do grafting" comment. We are coming in to prime grafting season, here in the U.S. if that is where you live, Once the daytime highs average above, say 75 degrees, it's time to graft!

I am not a grafting expert, but I've never heard any preference as to mono or poly rootstock, but as Doglips has said, a nice vigorous plant would be a good logical choice. My other question is - What kind of mango seed did you eat? If it is polyembrionic then you don't need to graft at all, and if it is monoembryonic it won't come true to the mango that you ate from Walmart anyway so you wouldn't want to graft that....unless you don't mind taking a chance on whatever comes up....

Find out if you can, exactly what variety of mango you purchased and go from there. Someone has said on another forum, that all the new varieties of mangoes come from crosses of very decent mango parentage themselves, so you almost can't go wrong just planting anything, but a really old fiberous type....

Good luck...m.amber. dog
Related Discussions
mango tree in a pot in stl,mo!?
Q
Comments (25)
It's hard for me to imagine a need for protecting anything in such a mild climate, but Florida does get the odd frost or dip in temperature now and again. Lights and frost blankets must give a very Christmas-y feel to certain neighborhoods during the winter months! Yes, I feel as though there's a very basic knowledge of plants and how they grow, and how growing in containers differs so greatly from growing directly in the garden, that we don't often learn as the base to our "gardening knowledge", so to speak... and if we learn these basics first, applying that knowledge to individual types of plants and growing conditions is made that much easier, and gives us that much more success. I think we have to look at the gardening/plant industry as just that, an industry. It exists to make a profit, and not necessarily to convey the truth in information or sell products that will lead to our success. But the basics of science and physics doesn't change. What plants require to grow healthy roots remains the same. And once we separate the worlds of container growing and garden growing, and we see how we are in control of what that plant in the confines of the pot needs and gets... as opposed to gardens and the organic nature... it becomes so easy to have that success. I found that base of knowledge in Al's article entitled "Container Soils - Water Movement & Retention", and its updates. It allowed me to think logically and clearly about organic growing versus inorganic growing, dispelled a lot of fallacies, and gave me the facts about what roots need to stay healthy within a confined space. It was a great starting point to my learning. Along the way, I learned that each grower has a different and unique set of circumstances to overcome within their own environment or micro-environment, and that one-size-fits-all growing does not exist. There will be certain adjustments required, and what works for one grower may not work for everyone. However, I feel as though that base of knowledge is very important... a very important starting point for anyone wanting real success in container growing. Here is a link that might be useful: Container Soils - Water Movement and Retention XVI
...See More
My Manila mango tree
Q
Comments (24)
LittleLuey: The customer service is, indeed, impressive. Unfortunately, while the CEO is apparently well versed in customer service and I am sure is advising you based upon his understanding......a seedling can never be 100% guaranteed to produce as he describes. The percentage is probably pretty high that he will be right....but there is always the chance that a seedling is a sexual reproduction and not the clone of the parent tree. Now if the tree was grown from tissue culture...that would be different. The use of the word "seedling" means just what it says.....it comes from a seed. No variety that I know of produces 100% cloned seedlings. But, maybe this is the one that does. I would be interested to see how many of these they have sold and what the results have been to see if a follow up would confirm his desciption with 100% certainty. Best of luck with the tree. Remember, even if it is not the exact clone, there is the chance that it could be as good or better than the parent. If it is not a clone, it is more likely to be not as good as the parent.....but that is the gamble you take. Harry
...See More
Help me choose a mango tree to plant
Q
Comments (10)
I would plant two mangoes....This is called a backup plan. Make contact with your local mango nursery. Best to get it from them rather than via mail Ask what the selection is via email. Most nurseries cannot give an accurate account so best to visit in person or get the right guy/gal on the phone and take notes. There are small breed condo mangoes but any mango tree can be pruned to the size you desire. With one or two trees. that is hardly a burden. Most condo trees are slow growers which accounts for their dwarf tendencies. I might be semi-wrong on this I would get one polyembryonic mango and one monoembryonic. Most Thai/Viet/Indonesian are poly while the breeds of Indian origin (most you have heard of) are mono. Nam Doc Mam is the easy Thai poly choice and is fairly common and available. You can also get one 7 gallon mango to get fruit sooner and one 3 gallon. On the 7 beware of root bound and bark bound trees. Bark bound means imprisoned in its shape due to being potted for too long. Too woody and old and not enough green fresh growth. Fairchild says plant only three gallon. They like fresh young and green The feet of the mango is very important. The best is nice wide and thick at the bottom by the graft. Juices/water/fluids have an eight lane highway to cruise up and down your tree to be. But nice green and fresh overall can conquer this given time. Tall and stringy not good but can be conquered by topping off some inches which also promotes branching off, a good thing. Do not be jealous of those Florida people with their mango nurseries every half mile with so many diff breeds available. Your dry weather means less fungus. Spring rains in Fl promote fungus and mango fruiting failures. You will have to irrigate more but the upside is less or no diseases. I don't know if ever freezes where you are. Mature mango trees are more resistant to such threats. Perhaps your local mango nursery can give good advice.
...See More
Mango experience in Tunisia - Need Help
Q
Comments (24)
Sorry for the late response. Well my little mango seedling didn't do well lately. Actually, it didn"t grow since the last picture of last july, it pushed some leaves but the internodal space is almost 0 inches. some new leaves were just piling up against the old one. I suspect it is a runt seedling, since i removed the two other ones randomly. 3 weeks ago the leaves started yellowing and drying (may be i was light on watering or overfertilizing with sheep manure), i had to cut all the canopy, but i don"t expect too much since it is not thick enough to response to a pug i think. But he managed to pass the winter without any protection by the way,which is a good news for me (climate hardiness speaking), as i got a grafted kent tree since then which is doing well. A good experience even if the seedling's fate is sealed. Here is a pic of it last month at he beginning of the drying out
...See More
Zigmund
11 years ago
Hi!
Farmers prefer polyembryonic rootstock for uniformity.
It makes pretty much sense for farmers who set out to propagate acres & acre of mango trees, making use of many of seedling root stock waiting to be grafted on to. They choose a variety of known-good & vigorous rootstock, and the only way to get uniformity of seedling is by, of course using polyembryonic seeds. The seeds have to be from a variety that is known to be a good grower. Like in the Philippines, farmers use carabao mango seeds which are polyembryonic, and happen to be good growers. Yes, they'll one day bear fruit that is true to type, but farmers still prefer to graft on them... They graft a carabao mango scion onto a carabao mango seedling rootstock.

However, as a hobbyist gardener it probably wouldnt matter what you use as rootstock. As said, if you think your monoembryonic seedling looks vigorous enough to be used as rootstock, then go ahead and graft onto it.
I have planted 5 mono seeds of mahachanok mango and they all turned out different. 3 were small, one even died, while two grew very fast. . It does take time to create rootstock from seed. Lots of time probably get wasted when monoembryonic seeds bear weak plants.

As for choosing a scion, I would expect for you to get it (the cuttings) from a mature tree of known-good variety, or of the variety you desire and not from another recently planted seedling. That's because getting the scion from an already mature tree of fruit bearing age guarantees that your resulting grafted tree will fruit much, much sooner.

Best regards!
Zig

Mango Grafting Poly vs Mono

Comments (3)

Doglips

mangodog

Related Discussions

Zigmund

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US