You can repot now or wait either choice will not cause problems to future plant growth.

kristy

I'd probably transplant them to a larger container now so someone else doesn't have to watch them so closely for watering. If their present containers are small and the tops are exposed to the air, the plant doesn't have a lot of water "wiggle room" -- the surface can dry out quickly and the seedlings along with them because they aren't terribly deep-rooted. With a larger soil bed, the seedlings have a larger water supply in the soil, so if someone forgets to check one day, they aren't likely to suffer. They'll grow quite a bit in two weeks, too.

FWIW, I'd HATE to leave my seedlings for somebody else to care for -- I'd rather leave them on a timed water and light cycle for 2 weeks.

I think I would repot them now too. And plant them deeply so just a hair of the stem is exposed above the soil line. I'd use intermediate sized containers for them at this stage (say 2x2 1/2") rather than going ahead and putting them into the plastic cups I normally use for final stage transplanting.

That way, assuming they get adequate light from that point on so that they won't just turn leggy again you'll come home to some nice size plants ready for final-stage transplanting.

Dave

digdirt

Good advice. Also, planting them more deeply now will give them a bit of a slowdown in height growth as they develop roots along the stem, and that's good from the standpoint of avoiding legginess but strengthening them.

Thanks so much everyone for all of the advice. So now my question is, how do I transplant them? Specifically, how do I get them out of the cell and into the new pot? Do I try to dig up just the plant or try to remove the entire thing from the cell? (I have never grown from seed before, obviously) Do I transplant them to potting mix? Or just a greater quantity of the peat they are currently in?

I'm very confused.....

kristy

Remove all of it, plant and soil, from the growing cell. In a deeper container (with drainage), put good moistened growing soil on the bottom, about a inch. Set your plant & soil directly on top of it, and then fill in around the sides then up to the first leaves on top with more moistened growing soil. Water well and let it drain. Add more soil if needed.

As for removing the plants from the cell, what kind is it? If it's a cheap flimsy plastic one like plant nurseries use, you can first cut them into individual cells. Then place your hand over the top of the individual cell with the stem between your first and second fingers. Turn it upside down and tap or push on the bottom until it falls into your hand. Then transfer it to your new container with a bit of growing soil on the bottom. If some soil remains in the cell and the seedling roots become exposed, don't worry about it -- just use the cell soil to fill in the sides of the new container. Tomatoes are surprisingly tough, though treat the seedlings as gently as possible.

If your plant cells are small individual cups, do the same thing. If they're sturdy and joined cells, you'll probably need a large spoon to dig out as much soil (along with the plant) as possible.

Anney, thanks so much for your detailed response. Couple of questions:

The cell tray I have is a burpee starter kit and although they are made of the cheap flimsy plastic, am worried that I may not be able to find a replacement tray for next time. This tray had a drainage hole in the bottom that is used to draw water up from a moisture mat. I don't know how 'specialized' this tray is in relation to what is widely available. Does anyone know if these trays are easily replaced?

Also I have read that the seedlings should not be fertilized yet, which means that I should avoid using a potting mix that has fertilizer in it?

Finally, do I need to water the plants to help the cohesion of the soil? Most of these seedlings have JUST started to get their first true leaves--they look more like buds than anything else. Some haven't even started to get the true leaves. I highly doubt that there is a root system that will hold the soil together.

Ah, I see.

Do each of those seedling cells have a hole in the bottom where water can enter? Like the first or second unit linked at the bottom? If so, can you use a dowel to just push the entire cube with seedling up and out of the cell? People have to get them out some way that's provided for! It may hold together just fine if you have one of the two shown below. I've never used the system, but those cubes look like a compressed growing medium, and they tend to hold together well, and I'd think normal moisture would be fine.

You could always call Burpee and ask them how to get the plants out!

Here is a link that might be useful: Burpee's Ultimate Growing System

You may have to do what is called "pricking" - it's what those of us who start multiple seedlings in the same cell or tray do all the time. It means literally lifting the seedling from below with a dibbler - a sharp pointed object - a tootpick, dental probe, fine screwdriver, sharpened pencil or similar slim sharp pointed object. video on how to do it

Lightly hold the plant by the leaves only (never the stem) and just probe in from the side of the plant and gently lift up with the probe. What comes out is the seedling, root, and a small amount of soil stuck to the root. Have the new cells already filled and prepared with already moistened soil (use 1/2 and 1/2 mix of seed starting mix and some potting mix with a slow release fertilizer in it). Poke a hole in the center of the new filled cell with your probe, pop out the seedling, slide it down into the pre-drilled hole, and lightly finger press the soil around it.

The Burpee trays and filler plugs are both replacable from Burpee but pricking won't damage your cell packs and they can be reused.

Instructions with pics linked below.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Pricking seedlings

You guys rock! I will watch those videos shortly.

I have had excellent results in taking a regular teaspoon and dipping the contents of a cell out. Then grasp the root ball and gently wiggle and twist to separate the plants. There may be a little bit of tearing of some of the roots, but as Annie said above they are hearty. Seldom do I have any that even wilt.

I transplant directly into the garden if weather permits, but otherwise put up into 16 Oz Styrofoam cups with Miracle Gro Potting Soil with Moisture Control and have had most excellent results. Pictures available upon request. The cups are cheap, easy to poke a couple of holes in the bottom and easy to write on. They are also fairly durable, I have some that have lasted two years.

Given the opportunity, even a small seedling will have a surprising root system. Your seedlings are on the doorstep of needing some nutrition beyond that which was contained in the seed, so I think that they will be hurting in a couple of weeks if they do not get something.
Just my .02
Bill P.

Ok, so I am going to try and repot but and very worried about the fragility of these seedlings. I'm afraid the leaves will pull off when I'm trying to do so. Some of the leaves have just emerged from the seed casing and I already tore one of the leaves off accidentally. For those that have just germinated in the last few days, I think that I just need to repot the whole cell, multiple plants and all, into one new pot and thin later. Does that sound correct?

Also, Bill, you mentioned that they will need more nutrition soon. Can I feed with Neptunes Harvest fish/seaweed fertilizer (2-3-1) at full/regular strength? I soaked the seeds in liquid seaweed and have been watering them with a weakened version of such since planting.

kristy

Just one last thing from me for you to read at the link below. It may be helpful.

Here is a link that might be useful: How to separate plants

If the cells are 2by2by3 inches deep i would wait.They will be ready to pot up then, they wont need much water in the flat they are in.Just my opinion. bill

Do half and half and see which worked best for future reference. The link you posted by Trudi is good and that is another way to do what I tried to describe above with the root ball.

Small seedlings before first true leaves need little to no fertilizer. You have already been giving yours some. The soil less potting mixes have little to no nutrition in them, and that is why I said that if they are about to start putting on the true leaves and you are going to be gone a couple of weeks, they may be beginning to hurt before you get back.

It would even be better to just re pot the contents of each cell intact into something larger if that works best for you till you get back.
Bill P.

When transplanting the tiny tomato plants DO NOT grab them by the stems. Use a knife, stick, spoon, whatever, to support the roots and soil and gently hold a leaf if needed. With a little practice, you can probably get along without touching the tops much if any. The stems need to be protected so they can move fluids around inside the plant.