THINK TWICE BEFORE CHOOSING QUARTZ. My personal experience... it is NOT MORE RESILIANT, IT IS UNFORGIVING AND IT IS MORE WORK. Last year we opted to get a high quality quartz RADIANZ CHARCOAL counter because every counter company seemed in agreement that quartz was more resilient than Granite and less maintenance. It wasn't long that we noticed clouding on the counter in certain angles despite only using only a gentle dish soap to clean it (per company recommendations). Also it began showing shade differences under certain pieces on my counter... a glass plate near the oven... and toaster oven (btw it was not caused by heat... because we move it from that spot when we use it). The shading difference remained despite removing all items from the counter every week to do a full clean up. Our company recommended bar keepers friend... it did not help... may have worsened (caused clouding). I then accidentally ruined my counter while cleaning my humidifier... (a solution of 1 litre of water w 1 tsp bleach) which dripped on the counter ... When I noticed the liquid on my counter... I tried to remove it with dish soap... then barkeepers friend... it was stained. Our company was surprised thought the water had perhaps dried on... or was there for hours... and said that at that level of dilution even for 15 min it should not have stained because the counter is non porous. Many quartz companies suggest that a diluted bleach can help with some stains (then looking at some posts from people who have tried it... they mentioned yellowing and clouding). Many quartz companies suggest different solutions for stains but then say that it may cause clouding... I'm here to tell you ... it probably will cause clouding... this is not a solution! I have since done research on quartz counters... many complaints of permanent clouding... many stains that cannot be removed... I've seen posts saying that the only real way to clean the counter is daily cleaning with only hot water because dish soap and yes even the recommended bar keepers friend can leave a residue on certain quartz. We bought a high end Quartz product because we were told that this was the best way to ensure a resilient higher quality.. So my conclusion...Quartz is less resilient and more work ... it may not need to be resealed like granite ... but I'm sure I am working much harder than granite customers on the daily maintenance. Even before the stain... it began having cloudy areas... despite only using the recommended dish soap for daily maintenance. Finally it is unforgiving... I have not had granite and realize it may come with its own limitations... but at least a granite counter can be re finished. If you are thinking quartz... look for customers who've had quartz to know the real story. Currently I wash my counter with dove diluted with water and re rinse completely till all smell of dove perfume is gone... I did use a non scented natural dish soap at one point... but it was harder to tell if I was rinsing enough and creating a residue. Hope this helps.

Texas Rawhyde...It sounds like you are going more for a transitional design. You might want to post more inspirational pictures to give the designers a clearer direction of your taste. Stay close to this posting as feedback is essential. Items you are interested in, give information and pics as Houzzers will immediately let you know if it works or not for your room. Also, different sites will be directed on purchases of artwork, furniture, lighting, bedding, window coverings, etc. Good luck, as you have the best designers help your vision become a reality. Remember that it takes time and patience.

Stop and take a bunch of deep cleansing breaths. Don't make any hasty decisions about fixes, please! If you have any drop cloths on the floors, pick them up. Put down your rugs, set up your furniture, hang the drapes. This may all sound counterintuitive because you'll need to put that stuff back if you have to repaint anything. But if you don't have the regular elements of your house in place you are not seeing the color the way it is going to look on a daily basis. Next, take a bunch more deep breaths. Nothing is unfixable; it will be okay. It may not get fixed in time for your family gatherings, but that will be okay, too. In fact, if you can possibly not say anything about your dissatisfaction with the paint it's entirely possible nobody else will notice. (I know it would be really hard not to say anything, but if you could pull that off nobody would be the wiser. Show them all the features you love about your house and they will hardly even notice the walls.) I'm not the person to give you the advice you need for how to fix this if it needs fixing. I think the experts here are going to want more pictures to be able to advise you. My completely amateur take from the small amount of info I can get from your pics is that the accent wall may be the source of the problem. But I'll defer to those who know way more than me and can explain what you can do with lighting and paint to fix things. Again...it will be okay! Focus on the good and what you love about your house and how it's going to be a great place to live for the coming years.

Dan, you've missed the main point. Waki922 doesn't have the room to rotate and looking for an alternative, so the first step is to destroy Early blight & septoria leaf spot fungus overwintering in residues in his bed. It can be done and with proper housekeeping so he continue to use the bed for Tomatoes or whatever, year after year. Your statement, (In farming, rotation is done on distance scales of thousands of feet. ) doesn't hold water here because this isn't farming, it's home gardening on the micro scale. Rotation is not practical for home gardeners and other more labor intense practices are needed with a different plan then in farming. So knowing what you're up against, and how to fight it gives a plan that works for me. A look at the fungus in question: Alternaria solani - Early blight, and Septoria lycopersici - Septoria leaf spot. Both fungus depend on plants from the Solanum family and no others. Both fungus are unable to crawl, walk or slither from one point to another. They are Immobile and depend on wind, water, or digging to move them. They need a suitable host, a way to get to the host, and the right growing conditions for the condia, (asexual chlamydospore) or spores to infect a plant by killing leaf cell tissue with toxins, and feeding on the dead plant cells. Poaceae (grass family), Liliaceae (lily family) , or any other family of plant will not support these two fungus, only the Solanum family of plants. Killing the overwintering fungus in the ground, where the fungus food (tomato plant) is grown will drastically reduce Condia in the spring. Then with the proper care the plant can then grow to produce a crop. His lawn or lilies won't feed the fungus, and his perennials won't, if they're not a member of the Solanum family. So fungus level will be very low in the surrounding area. WAKI , once you've killed overwintering fungus in the soil you must keep the site clean of plant debris. Roots must be pulled, all leaves and stems must also be removed, you can't leave anything for the fungus to overwinter in. Your little blow torch will not do it. The flamer I gave a link to needs to be used. No, its not illegal (just have a garden hose handy). When done search the area for other solarium family plants growing and flame them also. Then care for your new tomato plants properly with a sound feeding and watering. Plants, just like people, need to maintain a homeostasis balance to produce hormones and steroids for increased resistance to stress/disease. (yes plants use hormones and steroids.) I've experimented with the many disease resistant varieties to date. One was called Iron Lady, a cross of a "triple resistant" Cornell line and a late blight/early blight line from North Carolina State University released around 2012-2013. 50 -60 cents a seed. Guess what? If they're not cared for properly they will wilt. (not from lack of watering but improper feeding) My test plants were neglected to see how resistant they really are, and were ate up with disease in no time. Not far from the Iron lady was a Brandywine heirloom having no resistance, that I cared for properly and had no problems in producing a good yield. Regardless of the conditions plant health is of most importance. (I did spray the brandywine with Copper fungicide.) Dan, my main garden in the back is 65' x 230' and even there I don't rotate. Maybe 20' to 40' one way or another but not 1000's of feet. I'll be moving my potatoes a few hundred feet away to a new plot, not because of wilt but because of wire worms. 5 yrs ago I talked to a couple that planted tomatoes in the same spot for 45 years! Said they always had a good crop and the garden growing conditions were the best I've ever seen. So the need to rotate can be countered with other measures if one takes the time. I must mention Mountain magic tomatoes. One of the hardiest plants I've ever grown. Resists wilts to no end, grows great, high yield (picked almost 100 so far this year and will get another 100+ ) and 99% perfect fruit. They're small about size of a golf ball, about 2 oz. but the Quantity make up for the size. Another expensive seed costing 50 cents each from jung or 90 cents each from gurney's. I have a spot in my side yard facing south I plant show tomatoes in. It is 4' x 24' in size, I've been planting tomatoes in the same spot for about 15 yrs. Grasses, perennials, shrubs and flowers grow all around it, everything except plants from the Solanum family. I keep it clean of all plant debris, pull the roots, flame it and in the spring plant it. I mulch with rye straw, use drip irrigation and feed what they need, when they need it. They are my show off jaw dropper tomato plants and give amazing results well away from my main garden by 450 ft. , No rotation ever and right now there is no wilt on them, or pruning of the bottom leaves. Only sprayed them with copper twice this year when the conditions were right for fungus. If I do see a spot I remove the leave, (remember the spore has to kill the plant tissue before it can feed and reproduce and to spread), and with close attention you can stop the spread easily, if fungus levels are low below.