I wouldn't initially fault the SF method unless you've successfully grown these plants before. There are a horde of potential causes for disappointing production, and of course the causes will vary by vegetable type and even variety!

Melons - I've tried growing these several years using several different methods--straight in the garden and SF. I've always been disappointed and now don't even bother. If I do try it again, it will be in a heavily manured plot kept well watered.

Tomatoes - Can you elaborate on the type of tomatoes you planted, how you supported them, and how they failed to thrive (didn't grow tall or not much fruit, etc.) Tomatoes usually aren't too picky, but they do want lots of sun and benefit from lots of organic matter. I also don't prefer Mel's method for tomatoes. Instead I plant them singly a few feet apart and support them with concrete reinforcing wire towers. The soil is predominantly clay but very fertile and heavily mulched. The tomato plants become 7' tall dense shrubs laden with tomatoes.

Peppers - Success depends a lot on the variety you plant. My first year I grew "California Wonder" in zone 5 and was bitterly disappointed. I now grow North Star, Cubanelle, and Jimmy Nardelo and they produce well for me.

Eggplants - Always a bit cantankerous.

Radishes - What was wrong with the radishes? Usually when mine fail it was too hot for their optimal growth, or they were shaded too much by the other plants--they are so short!

Spinach - The only two reasons I can think of for poor spinach production are (1) too hot--they like cool weather, or (2) maybe the seeds were a mite old or improperly stored? Spinach seeds don't live as long as the rest of the vegetables, except for the carrot/parsley family. Also, it's important to keep the area well watered for germination.

Carrots - They're a pain to germinate because they take so long, and if you don't manage to keep them watered the seeds just die. Carrot seeds also have about the shortest "shelf life." If they germinate, I often have trouble because they're shaded by my taller plants.

Beets - Not sure why these wouldn't work, except they don't like it too hot either. Did you thin them, knowing that each seed "hunk" is actually 4-5 seeds? I also get it trouble sometimes with them getting shaded. My beets did better in the cooler summers of Massachusetts than here in Nebraska.

A lot of the plants you mentioned are heavy feeds, so adding manure or doing some cover cropping this winter could do wonders for you next year. I'm trying a couple winter gardens protected by cold frames this year.

Thank you so much for the detailed follow-up! After thinking about your response, and racking my brian about how the early season went, I remembered two key issues:

1. I started all of the cool season crops 2 wekks late.
2. I think I added too much peat and not enough manure to Mel's mix.

That would account for much of the crop failure, would it not?

Thank you!!

thephotohound - What zone are you ? You could do a fall garden still, especially if you are in zone 6 or higher. Spinach, Lettuce, Beets, Carrots and Radishes seem to do better in the fall unless you get an early cold snap. FRC (row covers ) protect against light frosts.

You could also plant cover crops that would protect your beds over the winter and improve your soil for the 2008 season.

thephotohound - What zone are you ? ( I see - zone 5 )You could do a fall garden though. Spinach, Lettuce, Beets, Carrots and Radishes seem to do better in the fall unless you get an early cold snap. FRC (row covers ) protect against light frosts.

You could also plant cover crops that would protect your beds over the winter and improve your soil for the 2008 season.

Too much peat would certainly explain much of your gardening difficulties. Peat is acidic and low in nutrient value. Without manure or compost to balance the acid and add nutrients, the heavy feeders in your garden would be in trouble.

Swiss chard is a light feeder, while beans and peas actually add nitrogen to your soil.

Melons, spinach, tomatoes, eggplant, beets, and radish are all heavy feeders. Carrots and peppers are considered light feeders. Again, with the peppers make sure that the variety you grow is suitable to your zone.

Yes, too much peat and not enough manure could be a major factor, and starting your cool weather crops too late would certainly hinder their success. I always push the early limit on my own crops, setting them out a month or so early with protection. Once the hot weather and the insects hit, those cool weather crops decline rapidly.

I hope that you didn't rip up your swiss chard. The chard can produce all summer, keep producing into the winter, and if your winter is mild enough might overwinter and give you a new early crop in spring!