Hi Need2SeeGreen, I recently repotted all my sambac jasmines (Jasminum sambac). I have Grand Duke, Belle of India and Mysore Mulli. Here's what I did- I first shook off as much of the old potting mix as possible and trimmed roots where needed. I then potted up using Al's 5:1:1 mix which I first screened all materials before mixing together. I then threw in some all purpose Dynamite slow release fertilizer and a little Ironite. I'll occasionally use a liquid fertilizer during the growing season (Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro). I wouldn't use both kinds of slow release fertilizer in your mix. As long as your potting medium is fast draining and you give the plant sun your jasmine should thrive. I don't know anything about hard water so I suggest googling that part. Personally I would move the nasturtium to its own pot since it will be competing with the jasmine for water and nutrients. Good luck! -Robert This post was edited by robert1971 on Fri, Apr 26, 13 at 12:27

Well first the color yellow is not what attracts the SVB, I have had many squash plants killed off by SVB long before they ever flowered. Second I have heard in many locations that marigolds are a companion plant for squash (I often have marigolds with my squash). Supposedly the marigolds help repel bugs and nematodes. Though honestly I haven't noticed any difference with or without marigolds (but I never have problems with bugs or nematodes either). In any case marigolds don't attract the SVB. Leave them in I am sure they look nice.

The spacing of beet rows and of beets within the rows can be found on the linked document from OSU which addresses fall planting in OK. If you thin once the beets are a couple of inches tall, you'll have baby beet leaves a couple of inches tall---so think of them as something small you'd toss onto a salad not as some big mass of greens you'd cook like spinach leaves. Just rake back the mulch in the area where you are sowing seed, exposing the soil where the seed is planted. Sow the beet seeds at the recommended depth and water. Keep the mulch pulled back until the beets have sprouted and have gotten a couple of inches tall. After the first thinning, you can gently rake the mulch back up around the young sprouts to keep weeds from sprouting too closely to the young beet plants. You'll a little late on planting the beets, so all you can do is hope for a long, mild fall so they have time to grow and size up before the nights get really cold. Beets can handle recurring cold nights and even frosts for a while, though, so you do have plenty of time to get a good harvest even though you're starting 2-4 weeks late. I've had beets that were planted in fall remain actively growing some years until December. Usually a night with temperatures in the teens will freeze the foliage back to the ground in early December. If warmer weather follows, sometimes they leaf out again. It just depends on what the weather is doing in any given year. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: OSU Fall Garden Guide

Morning glories are notorious for reseeding, per all the forums I've read....they are lovely, and I grew my first this year but chose to grow them in a container; Nearing the end of their flowering cycle and many leaves yellowing despite daily watering, I harvested seeds and we removed them. I suspect your morning glories reseedefd all over. If you're not liking it, pull it out hopefully before it can get ahead of you