My First SFG Plan

16 years ago

Below is my "planned" garden layout for this summer. The 2x16 bed on top will have a cattle pannel trellis running down the center of the bed essentially dividing it up into two 1x16 sections.

Going into this completely blind so if I've done something horribly stupid with my layout let me know. I've never grown anything before in my life. I'm still amazed at how much stuff you can fit into these square foot gardens (or at least what I think I can fit into them :-) )

I am also planning on planting additional radishes, carrots, onions, mint, etc along the edges of the 2x16 bed as everything in that bed is trellised and will not be taking up that much soil space.

The zucchini I am planning on putting in tomato cages per the FAQ on this forum.

The yellow squares are just reminding me not to plant those items till the risk of frost is gone.

Anyway let me know your thoughts.

Jeremy

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Comments (4)

fishymamas
16 years ago
All in all a solid plan, just a few tweaks to consider:

The mint in invasive, you may want to keep it in pots, or else you'll have to weed it out of other squares.

You may want to divide the tomatoes in 2 groups, so if 1 set gets blight (tomato disease) the other group won't catch it as easily. I have my cukes between my tomatoes in "stripes" to give them space from thier own kind.

Raspberries and blackberries can be invasive, you may want to may these thier own bed (they spread undergrown, so I think sinking some big 18 gal buckets/totes into the ground to contain them would be best (drill holes like you would an above ground planter, put the bucket into a big hole, and plant in the bucket now in the ground). I've several things in them, and only dropped ~$5 per bucket (they're near the laundry isle) at walmart.

I would tuck the strawberry runners (the baby strawberries that grow off the mother plant) under the trellised crops instead of them filling in there squares too much.
sinfonian
16 years ago
Those tomatoes will take over when the start growing, unless you plan on using Mel's single vine method. Same goes for the cantalope.

Other observations/opinions include:

-Snow peas grow abot 30 inches high and like trellises.
-Depending on which way the sun shines, the peas may shade the pppers too much.
-I'm not a zucchini guy, but they need tons of space to grow. Not sure if that's enough. Others may know better.
-Blackberries in a SFG? I'm sure its possible but with the crowns they develop, it could easily take over your entire bed. I'd move them to their own area and depending on the variety (thornless are the best IMHO) I'd trellis them. They really take off in a few years. Otherwise don't expect a crop the first year.
-If you think THAT'S the way to grow Babie Girls.. then I can't help you. hehe

Great layout! Gonna be a long walk around it (a complaint I've heard about long beds, but I don't mind). Otherwise grade A job designing it. Take pictures!

Here is a link that might be useful: Sinfonian's garden adventure! Check it out!
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Yes corn should be planted in blocks, the NW corner would work well. The remaining tall plants should be on the north side too, including those you will trellis (cukes or other vines). The 3 sisters scheme referred to a vining (usu. winter) squash to climb the corn. My summer (yellow) squash, has huge leaves and takes up a 4x4ft box when its happy. I have squeezed 2 plants (6in. apart) in a 4x4. I wouldn't put squash on the N side, tho I have had it get 3ft high. Certainly it would provide shade for a smaller plant, but usu. stifles anything under it. You might try radishes, lettuce, or spinach will would be done before the squash shades everything. Read up on the Squash Vine Borer (SVB) so you know what is happening when the squash suddenly dies.
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I don't know much about SFG itself, but my impression of irrigation is that with sprinklers, even on a timer, you use a lot of water and hit everything, including weeds. So this could turn into more work for you as the weeds soak up all that water and grow. I have not heard that drip-lines are more maintenance than soaker hoses, more work to set up, yeah, but not so much maintaining after that. The big bonus for drip-lines and soaker hoses is that they put the water right at the plants roots where they need it. You also don't get run-off as you would with a sprinkler. Something you might want to look into, that I only found out about myself and I'm still learning, is wicking beds. Very basicly, you run your irrigation under the beds and water the plants from below. I have seen projects where they used covered rain gutters run under the beds and push towels or some other cloth through the spots where the plants will be. This pulls water from the gutters up into the soil at a slow, even rate and keeps the soil 'just right'. All you have to do is check the ends of the gutters to make sure they're full of water. The rest is automagic. Anyways, best of luck to you on your project. I hope someone more experienced with SFG can give a bit more insight.
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to find out how deed you need it for you, sit yourself on the floor and and lean over and see how far you comfortably reach. I'm short, and I made 4' beds, but I forgot that my beds were up against a wall, so I had to literally put a 6x6 beam across the beds that I ballance on to get to the back row. I've fallen twice and steped on my brussels sprouts too. It's really quite rediculous, I think i'll probably fix it or install some step stones. Anyway, it's real important to figure this out. Go as high as you like, how short would depend on what plants, carrots would need higher walls than lettuce. Higher is more convenient for bending. It sounds too ambitious for me, but if your sure you should do what you like. Just maybe don't buy all the supplies at once (unless your getting a deal) that way you can kinda give yourself an out. Remember that's a lot of compost too. I love my vertical rows, I think i'm going to do some 2' rows next year for tomatoes, and grow basil in front of the tomatoes. How you lay it out is up to you. It may be nuts, but I really think the basil helps the tomatoes.
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gumby_ct
16 years ago
I didn't study it in any detail but two things pop up for me.
1. I always recommend at least 4ft between beds. If you have it use it, else you will wish you had. Things do grow beyond the bed frames, esp. at harvest time.

2. I see no mention which direction is which. North & South are critical in intensive growing esp. when using a trellis.

Good Luck,
Gumby_CT
jcoenen
Original Author
16 years ago
Thanks for the comments! I have added a compass to the picture to help with shade recommendations.

I will do my best to stagger the cucumbers in between my tomotoes.

I'll also move the snow peas back to the trellis - I had them there but package said not to stake them so I put them in the normal bed.

Raspberry, blackberry, and mint I guess I will look for a new home - btw they are the raspberry/blackberry are the thornless variety.

I've actually already got the beds in place and strawberries planted. I will post some pics tomorrow once I install my trellis (using conduit and cattle fence).

Thanks again for the comments and keep them coming. I've been reading out on the forums here for a couple of years before I took the plunge and have learned so much from you guys. I always recommend these forums as the premier spot for all gardening advice.

Thanks again -

Jeremy

My First SFG Plan

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