The recommendations so far are probably the best plants for the job, but, if you're wanting other ideas: I see no problems: Chlorophytum comosum (spider plant) (educational bonus: can give kids offsets to take home) Dracaena sanderiana Dracaena sanderiana 'Lucky Bamboo' (educational bonus: visible root system if grown in water) Dracaena deremensis 'Warneckii' Dracaena deremensis 'Janet Craig' (especially the "compacta" variety) Dracaena fragrans (corn plant) Sansevieria trifasciata 'Futura' (snake plant) slight problems: Aechmea fasciata (urn plant) (would prefer bright light) Aglaonema spp. (is toxic if chewed) Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Island pine) (would prefer bright light, cool temperatures) Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant) (goes dormant in winter) Beaucarnea recurvata (ponytail palm) (would prefer bright light) Chamaedorea elegans (parlor palm) (humidity might be an issue) Chamaedorea metallica (small fishtail palm) (humidity and light might be issues) Davallia trichomanoides (rabbit's-foot fern) (they're a little fussy; also go dormant in winter) Dieffenbachia spp. (is toxic if chewed) Dracaena marginata (would prefer bright light) Epipremnum aureum (pothos) (is toxic if chewed) Ficus benjamina (ficus tree) (can be difficult) Ficus binnendijkii (long-leaf fig) (said to be difficult, though that's not been my experience) Ficus elastica (rubber plant) (can be difficult) Ficus lyrata (fiddle-leaf fig) (can be difficult) Monstera deliciosa (split-leaf philodendron) (is toxic if chewed) Philodendron spp. (is toxic if chewed) Spathiphyllum spp. (peace lily) (is toxic if chewed) Tillandsia ionantha (air plant) (would prefer bright light) Zamioculcas zamiifolia (ZZ plant) (is toxic if chewed)

Well I'm just an hobby moss grower from American and I respect the presumed authority you business growers have but as it might have been said before as well as emphasized, mentioned, or brought out in this whole discussion, the conditions in which you excavated your moss are the conditions in which they're likely to grow in. Now that doesn't mean I'm encouraging anyone to go out and buy a light meter, pH meter, hydrometer, temperature meter(thermometer), etc. but with all the advice being thrown around I cant help but think the most sound advice would be from Mother Nature(not to sound hokey). In the case that you don't know the origin or species of your attained moss or even after you're given the simple specifics by some smooth-talking salesman or woman I encourage that you still educate yourself on the conditions moss are likely to thrive in such as has been advised in this forum but all with a grain of salt. I've never bought moss but in making my case the gentleman or lady eileenb58 stated that "feather moss and plume moss do not do well in a wet environment," which is a nice statement but my first ever time seeing feather moss was at the Thorncrag Bird Sanctuary Park in Lewiston, ME(zone 5) where heaps of green, growing feather moss on rocks in cold shallow streams could be found on March and April 2012(forgive me if they were planted or by some other means set to deceive me in thinking their slow-growing nature had made them thrive there). Needless to say these feather moss were growing in a very wet environment and character to their nature grew up in top of each other still very wet to the touch in the middle of streams and along side them. I would also like to note that there was also feather moss growing on trees but in less abundance as those I found nearer the bodies of water to possibly support eileenb58's claim of their disdain of wet environments. I don't believe eileenb58 is wrong(b/c there's a little theory called adaption and evolution) but I do believe that for the moss that she/he had access to the case is reasonable. What I really mean to support is that yes the moss people grow or find growing in conditions they have set up grow but they are not as standard as the moss that you've collected's origin is and possibly even a deviation. I took a fragment of this feather moss from ME(zone 5) and brought it with me to NJ(zone 6), thinking it would grow inside atop clay soil(abundant in my NJ region) on a rock(some mountain rock) I had set in a shallow water basin with no particular special treatment besides filling the water basin, and I even using tap water, high in calcium as I learned only to then wait until the fragment turned a deep brown with white tips in my possession, and I'm not too sure on any of your definitions of death of moss but I, after seeing the fragment turn a nice deep brown, transported it outside in its basin to a spot under a tree on the ground in May 2013 where it received a fair amount of moisture, air circulation and had considerably colder night conditions, a different precipitation quality and frequency and soon enough, though needing a bit more precipitation in my opinion, greened-up like a phoenix. Temperatures on the ground this year are probably around 75-70 daytime and drop down as low as the 60's night time. There isn't much precipitation now as there was in May and I know moss are intolerant to dry spells but my fragment has been clinging on for dear green for almost a two years since it's excavation with it now signs of life after being placed outdoors for three months. There's something to be learned here about life and death of moss in addition to viable conditions. Let me again say that I am only a hobby moss grower and my methods are not orthodox but upon researching feather moss(on Wikipedia if you can believe them) I found that feather moss grows naturally in tiaga/boreal forests: cold northern parts like New England(where ME is included) and Canada. As far as whether any of that means wet or dry conditions for where you place them I don't know but I do have a sneaking suspicion that they like it cold for a spell/season. I have this book "Moss Gardening" by George Schenk who states on page 201 about feather moss Hylocomium splendens, "There is no use in even trying this species unless one intends to keep it in a terrarium (where it will stay fresh a while even if it does not grow), or unless one provides a rich bosky place for it in the open, as beneath a grove of tall shady conifers." I have my little basin under a the shave of a 10ft maple, the point is take all the advice you can with a grain of salt regardless of the authority published in forum, encyclopedia, or text. What I have done recently is set up an exo-terra terrarium with a good patch of brown(once green in the cold Thorncrag stream) feather moss on a rock besides the edge of water(collected rain water this time) that I have being pumped out of the terrarium and into a minifridge freezer(call it a DIY water chiller) then returned to the terrarium a little colder(70-65F) than room temp(90-70F) in clear tubing that water condenses atmospheric humidity in and outside the terrarium. There are two fans in the terrarium; one over the water blowing across it's surface and one higher near the terrarium's roof. The tubing with the condensed water on it inside the terrarium apparently, if not the cool water below's fault by convection, upon it's exit helps keep the terrarium cool with help from the fans that blow in their entering and exiting paths. I have miniature orchids above the whole moss set up just in case you thought it was all for the love of moss. I have only recently set this up however and am hoping that my brown moss notices the difference. While I could upload a picture, since I only today completed the project, I'll wait until I see something green from my moss to confirm to my reasoning that nature knows best. Again, I am a hobbyist. I have not done the scientific experiments(if you don't count observation) necessary to create identical conditions for the moss I would like to grow given it's origin. To show you how much I care about the specific conditions I will give my advice: If you want a little tip from me on growing feather moss I say get a plate(dish plate or shallow ceramic plate w/e), a red lava rock(not the small broken up ones of soil additives found in baggies but the ones that are weighed along with all the other large decorative rocks at garden centers, perlite-less garden soil or even clay, silt w/e soil you have around, and some feather moss. Place the plate in a shady spot(maybe under a 10ft maple tree-this is separate from what I discussed previously as the mountain rock I explained is not porous to my knowledge) and sprinkle(hopefully not on a windy day) a little of your soil on the rock which should be perforated if you got the right one. You don't need to create a whole layer of soil on top of the rock and you might not need soil at all(did I mention that I'm not an authority). Also it's okay for the soil that you sprinkle, should you literally be sprinkling it, to fall into the plate's well(the moss will grow here too). Next break up and sprinkle the feather moss, wet or dry, over the lava rocks and add rain water to the water basin if natural precipitation isn't available to do the job often enough to wet the rocks. Red Lava rocks are porous(admit water through their perforated surface) so when they sit in water they absorb it and it can be wet, evaporate and w/e else all around it's surface above water. The fact that it is porous makes it a good surface for moss like feather moss to grow(and I wouldn't be surprised if you buy a lava rock w/ another kind of moss growing on it but don't worry b/c feather moss, as you read and educate yourself, has a unique growth pattern where it grows over even itself to form a new sheet) so there's no need to remove already present moss. What you might want to take note of is that since lava rocks admit water and since such decorative rocks are usually stored outside that it might be best to choose a rock after a few days of no rain just so that possibly all the rock that's being weighed is all the rock you're getting and not added water weight. Nevertheless you can leave this setup outside year-round if you're zone 6 and 5(let me mention again that Wiki says it like taiga/boreal forests i.e. "let it snow, freeze, thaw." The rocks I left out in the winter haven't degreaded to my knowledge despite their perforation and water's expanding property when ice. You might not see anything for a year, hopefully a good part of that time in which it's covered in white but after one winter I have found a few feather sprigs coloring my red rocks with their lively green and for you indoor terrarium growers-I'm working on my own zone 5 to zone 6 solution in a terrarium set up mentioned earlier but again I'm no authority on the matter; I'm just a hobbyist.

For that matter, keep researching the posts on this forum. There are all sorts of Qs addressed throughout. Does make for quite a bit of reading but that is what research often comes down to. Also don't be disappointed if it take a while for Qs to get answered. This forum can get extremely slow. I think the big problem is that once one has made their terr, there just isn't much reason to keep popping in. I wouldn't worry about: "I dont know if I will forge ahead and try to make a terrarium or not. I don't want to invest a good chunk of time and $ into something that won't end up the way I envision." After all, let's face it ... even if it were to turn out "exactly" as you envision, there's no surety that a year later you wouldn't be thinking ... "Geez, I wonder how it would be if I ...." or "I really like the way it turned out but now I want..." That's just life. DO take the time to plan everything out to be a low maintainence as possible -- especially if you do use a waterfeature (personally I wouldn't in a 25 gal tank -- takes up too much of the floor space), make sure to design things so even after its finished you have EASY access to the pump and any filters -- or you will wind up cursing yourself for gross stupidity. Keep it simple to start. Yes there are all sorts of cool things to use in a terr, but you will be absolutely shocked at how fast all that space just disappears. Put the critter on the "back burner". For now focus on creating a well established terr -- and don't forget -- if this might someday be used for a critter, NO pesticides can be used PERIOD. Good luck and let us know how things are going! :)

Congrats also for doing this for the kids. With 120, you should check if you can wholesale order some ferns, Selaginella, or similar online. The ferns should be readily obtainable, as they are mass tissue cultured and then sold to growers as small plants in cells. An online search should located a wholesaler, which should be cheaper for you. Better yet, maybe a local greenhouse place could actually order them for you, if they are ordering for themselves at the same time you may save on shipping. Carnivorous Plants may also be good, you can grow them on straight peat moss or a mixture of peatmoss and sand (not regular potting soil, and NO fertilizer). They love the humidity, and the kids love that they are carnivorous (they also grow faster and easier then flytraps). Two common and good tropical sundew species are Droser capensis or Drosera adelae. You can also get seeds of these, they must be sown on the surface of the moist peat. They are slow at first so may not be the best bet for kids. Biological Supply Houses (i.e. Carolina) may also have flasks of tissue cultured sundews ready to be separated and planted (may be more expensive this way). If interested in seed, check out the INternational Carnivorous Plant Society, I think they have seeds of some common types availalbe to schools, but not sure.