You're welcome. It was funny to me. He ended up full of crow since the tow truck guy walked over, hooked the car using the tree (this is really key since Ed prides himself on being capable and fully versed in engineering manuevers) to leverage it out and was done in seconds. This after a huge rant/lecture from Ed of how no one, not even an experienced tow truck driver, could ever possibly ever get it out unless it quit raining. All of which intimating if Ed couldn't do it, no one could...... especially a dumb ol' girl. But my solution won out. HA! That little-know-it-all, got his comeuppance. I decided to blow off everything today, diet, hair, work, whatever I don't feel like doing, I'm not doing. I'm only at work still since I have Friday/Monday off. I'll get done and have nothing on my mind this weekend. Except the birthday bash. Enjoy your days ladies!

I got a problem with my garage opener in past few days. I can close the door when I leave for work but cannot open the door when I come home. At first I thought the trouble is caused by cold weather. Then I thought is the board gone bad. However, when I get the remote close to the antena, everything works fine. Finally I observe that my garage door open/close indicater(Made by Craftsman) both lights are flashing(red and green). Therefore I disconnet the AC power on the receiver then test out the garage door remote. Surprisely, everything works like a charm. The trouble is caused by the unit that attached to the garage door runs out the battery. I bet the receiver unit was sending signal to find the door unit consistenly which interferences the signal of garage door remote control, including my keypad door opener. After I replace the battery on the door unit, everything is back to normal. Just want to share with anyone who has the same situation. Signal interference will cause the trouble to remote control.

I have had the same problem. I took the logs off and found that there was a ball of black carbon about the size of a marble at the end of an appendage coming from the main burner. . I vacuumed that off and cleaned all of the unit. Re lit the pilot and then turned it on. It worked for about 5 minutes and then shut off. I took it apart again and cleaned it off again and this time some rust and a small piece came off of the burner appendage. It looks like about a 2 inch piece with a hollow center coming off the center of the burner itself. Is there a way to fix this? Here is a link to a photo burner photo

For everyone having the problem with your garage door not closing... I've read this entire blog and tried everything suggested. The force/travel adjustments would solve my problem for a while then it would come back so, if you've already checked sensors, wiring for damage/connection, adjusted the up/down force, adjusted the up/down travel here's something to try before buying a new opener: Inside the unit find the up/down travel adjustment mechanism(see photo). At the end opposite the screw-heads you turn to adjust the travel there is a gear mechanism. When these gears wear they can slip. In addition, the chassis for the gears is plastic and over time will weaken-my opener is almost 12 years old! My gears are still in pretty good shape. The problem is that the chassis would flex and allow the gears to jump hence, the reason my adjustments would work for a while then the problem would come back. Now I know this will sound like a hokey fix but I figure it is better than dropping a couple hundred bucks on a new opener...I pushed a toothpick into the hole in the main chassis where the travel mechanism is snapped in essentially eliminating the chassis from flexing and allowing the gears to slip. make sure you do this on the side opposite the gears. If you do it on the same side you will put a larger space between the gears making the problem worse. This has been working for nearly a month now. I attached a picture of the travel adjust mechanism for reference. It is difficult to see the toothpick in the photo. It is right next to the brown wire connection opposite end of the mechanism from the adjustment screw heads. One other hint: the opener will most likely get hot running the door up and down making your adjustments and will shut off (thermal overload protection). I don't know why but after this happened the green light next to the remote programming button on the back would flash 5 times-off-flash 5 times...repeatedly. I had to pull the power for a couple minutes to get the light to stop blinking. Either let the unit cool for about 10 minutes after it shuts off or to keep your unit from overheating, place a small floor fan in position to blow on the motor. Craftsman 1/2 HP model# 139.53971SRT manufacture date: 02/2000