After speaking to Sears Cust. Service rep. it sounds like I need to replace the cicuit board...
Rick

I have a model 139.53535SRT. For the last few weeks, the door will not go down without reversing multiple times somewhere in the downward motion as if something is arbitrarily being put in front of the sensors as it is going down, but there isn't anything in the way. The sensor lights shine brightly and constantly. I've adjusted the downward force to every conceivable level; no help. I've even unhooked the door from the trolley to see if it would still reverse with no weight and with nothing really moving in front of the sensors, and it still reverses. I've now tried everything I can think of.

I did just discover, however, that if I push and hold the hard-wired, wall-mounted control, the door will go down without any problem every time. Push and release the control like you normally would and it will reverse somewhere in its travels. It reverses every time with a remote, too.

Anyone have any ideas what may cause this and, if so, how it can be fixed? Sears won't answer any of my questions since it is not under warranty, so no help there.

You have a door sensor problem. Nothing else will cause this problem. It will appear the lights are on bright and steady from a standing position but if you get down close and look you can see one of the blinking ever so slightly. Tweak them ever so slightly to align them.

I am trying to reprogram the opener using the green button on the back of the head unit. After I clear the first code and press the button on the GDO, the light blinks as is states in the instructions. It appears that the code has been reset, although when I press the homelink button on my vehicle, (w/o programming the new opener to the vehicle) the old code still works. Any ideas?

This board is a tremendous resource! Hoping you can help what seems to be a unique situation. We recently moved into a new house with a Craftsman 1/2 h.p. GDO dated 1999 ( I don't have the model no. with me right now). The previous homeowners did not have any remotes, but suggested that we could purchase universal remotes from CT. I recently purchased 2 remote units and additionally a Wireless Keyless Entry System Transmitter (all Skylink products) I had no problem programming both remotes to work, however the keyless entry system is another story. The Receiver is a "learn" type with a red SRT button. I tried programming the keypad with the receiver and got the opener to accept the initial signal from the keypad transmitter no problem - there was immediate recognition and the garage door either opened or closed completely immediately upon programming. However, I encounter a problem with the next operation following setup. If the garage door is already in the open position and I enter the code and entry button on the transmitter, my garage door moves to about 1 fifth of the way closed, then suddenly reverses back to the full open position and stops. Alternatively, if the door is in the fully closed position and I use the keyless transmitter, it opens about 12 inches and stops. If I then re-enter the code and enter, the door closes fully again the 12 inches, but then immediately opens up all the way. It almost seems like there are two signals being sent with each entry.

Have you encountered the problem I noted above, and can you offer any advice as to what may be happening or how it can be corrected? Since the two remotes (as well as the wall switch) work flawlessly, I assume this is not a problem with the door sensors, but something with the signal from the keyless entry pad to the receiver.

Anyone had this problem?

Any help would be much appreciated!

Cheers,
S

appompa255 if I understand you correctly you are trying to change the code. You can't do that. The code is in the remote. The receiver in the head unit learns and remembers that code. So each time you program a remote you are putting that remotes code back in. Let me know if I misunderstood you.

Sean it sounds to me like you have hit the nail on the head. I would see if you can return the keypad for an exchange. It sure sounds like there is something wrong with it.

My garage door openers stopped working about two weeks ago. They would both starting working intermitently but now not at all. The wall unit works but neither of the hand held remotes will work unless they are within two inches of the unit. I reset both of the remotes and I know they work because if I hold them within two inches of the opener inside the garage they will work. If I have the remotes farther than two inches away they will not work. What can I do to get them to work when I'm outside of the garage (or more than two inches from the unit)?

WOW !!!!! Don is a GENIUS !! After changing the battery in both my car remote and wireless remote I could not make the wireless work. The car remote was easy to reprogram. Then I read Don's reply from Sept. 10 '05 . . .

"Press and immediately release the button on the back of the motor unit. Walk over to your keypad and key in any 4 digit code of your choice and press enter. Should do the trick."

The "press and immediately release" was the key.

PERFECT !!!!! Thanks so much. This was the most frustrating thing.

I have a craftsman 1/2 opener. My remote keypad just stopped working. I replaced the battery, and it didnt fix the problem. I pushed the "button" by the white wires, and immediatley went and pushed my 4 digit code and hit enter. All I get is a blinking keypad(blinksoer 10 times) My car remotes work fine. I repeated the process 10 times ( pressing button for both shorter and longer periods) to no avail. Please Help!

Your keypad has quit working.

Thank you for that...........I kept trying after I posted this message. It did work a few times by randomly pressing buttons (I still dont know which ones made it open) but it still continues to blink (10 - 12 times) So I am assuming should go out and buy a new one?

Try programming your keypad one more time using this exact sequence. Press and immediately release the smart/learn button. Key in any 4 digit code you can easily remember on the keypad and press enter. If the keypad is working it will operate the door. If not it won't and you should purchase a new one.

I bought a home with a Craftsman model k711 - 41A3624 already installed. We only have one remote (no keypad) and a home link system in my car. My car was recently stolen and I'd like to reprogram the garage door opener but do not have a manual. How is this done?

My Craftsman model 139.53629SRT worked fine with remote and wall button 'til 2 weeks ago. Now when actuated by either remote or wall button, it hums for 2 seconds and stops. Light bulb doesn't flash; Holding the wall button for 30 seconds has no effect.

Photo eyes at base of door seem to work (the green light on the photo eye stays lit unless path is blocked --> then it goes off. But it stays lit when the symptom above occurs.) (1/2hp 5amp; manuf Nov 1993; 41A4315-6B)
Thanks in advance, Ed

I've followed this thread from beginning to end and followed the advice but still have a problem. My keypad stopped working and after I replaced the battery and still could not get it to reprogram, I went ahead and bought a new one (same model as the broken one). The new one would not program until I wiped out all the codes and then it worked. Unfortunately, at that point, none of the other 3 remotes would re-program. When I wiped out the codes (i.e. started over) and programmed the 3 handheld remotes first, they worked, but then the keypad would not program. I have tried every combination of programming order to no avail. Simply put, the remotes will not program if the keypad is programmed and vice versa. Since it is the same model keypad as the one which worked for 10 years, I'm completely at a loss for how to proceed. Any help is definitely welcome.

Hi, I have a mid 90's 1/2 hp garage door (2 of them). My problem is the remotes I have don't have batteries in them. Does anyone know what battery goes in the remotes? 139.53681 is on the back of the remote if that helps. Also, anyone know where I can download the manual? Thanks Josh

I've had two Craftsman Garage Door openers (Model 41A3625) that have worked perfectly for nearly 15 years. Recently the one we use most often has started reversing when it reaches the floor upon closing. I found that it is exerting enough down force on the door to bow the track rod on the opener. Reducing the Down Force knob on the rear of the unit reduces the bow in the track rod, but it does not stop the reversal. What went wrong? How can I fix it? I'm guessing a limit switch somewhere inside the unit quit working, but I have no idea where.

slashmanmusic you need 2 each #3V2016 Lithium Batteries.

john515 Your door is closing too far. When it hits the floor the safety senses the door has hit something and reverses to the open position. On the side of the motor unit you will find 2 adjustments. One is the up limit and the other is the down limit. Using a small screwdriver turn the down limit 3 or 4 turns in the opposite direction of the arrow printed on the cover. What you want is for the door to stop short of hitting the floor and then you can tweak that adjustment until the door closes properly. Keep in mind that if you run the motor too much while tweaking this adjustment it may shut off on the thermal overload. This is to protect the motor from overheating. If this happens you'll have to wait about 15 minutes and then it will automatically reset.

It will really help if you start a new post rather than adding onto this one that is over 120 posts long. Please!

Don, Sjohansen (wrote on Aug. 2) has the same problem I have on my Craftsman 139.53927. I have adjusted the light safety reversing senors and they are definitely aligned. I'm pretty sure it is the downward force adjustment that is broken. If I futz with the adjuster I'll usually get the GDO to work. Also, my downward force limiter screw, unlike the upward force limiter can continuously rotate; plus it seems loose. After a few uses of the opener the garage door stops working and returns to moving only a few inches. I believe the adjuster is getting diconnected or something. Do you know if this is possible?

If your down force control can be turned 360 degrees it is bad. If your door opener is approaching 10 years of age just replace it.

Don:

Thanks for the help with the closing limit switch. I found that the switch is physically broken, probably by running past the point where the switch contact was supposed to stop the motor. I've glued the switch housing back together, but I'm betting the control circuit on the main board may have died. I'll put the switch back in and see if it overruns again.

Thanks again!

This is a great board, thank you for keeping it going. I also have a half horse motor with a different problem. Yesterday when lifting the door just didn't stop until it hit it's own unit (breaking the light bulb on the front. When shut it goes all the way down the retracts as though there was something in the way, again, all the way up to the unit. It as though it does not know it's limits. This is a model 139.53637 (06/94). Yes I know your first peice of advise will be to replace it because it's over 10 years old, but if I can somehow set these limits I'd be all set. It's working great asside from that.
{{gwi:2054116}}

Your limit switch assembly has apparently quit working. Unusual for it to fail in both directions. I suggest you remove the cover and watch how the limit switches work. If they are making contact but just running past I would suspect the logic board. Have you had lightning?

I also have 1 craftsman half H.P (13 years old). Recently my teen daughter hit one of the electric eyes and smashed it (don't ask). I decided to completely bypass the photo eyes and just have the wall button control. I pulled new wire to it and the unit. It's only a two wire deal and should be simple but now the unit only will open the door. When it reaches its limit it stops just fine, but will not go down. When I push the wall switch the motor stiil hums but the chain gets super tight as if it's only trying to open the door more. I took the chain off and ran the motor without it, and it spins just fine, but only in the upwards position. Any ideas. Thank you.

The opener will never work properly without the sensors. There are also additional problems. Why did you have to pull new wire?

I will help anyone I can that has a problem with a door opener but I am no longer going to answer any posts here. It is already over 120 posts and much too long. Please read the instructions at the top of the forum and start your own post.

I have found the solution to what was causing my sears garage door opener to bounce back after moving a foot or so. It was the wires that connect the eyes to the box. They were wiggling loose. I restripped them and made sure they were in really secure and the opener works like new.

Hi, I just wanted to thank JayDee53 for his bits of information, he was right on the mark. We were having problems programming the two remotes, had changed a battery, and it seemed to be that we should only push and release fast, not hold the "learn" button on the motor. Also the informaton about the remote keypad really helped as we had purchased this opener new from someone who had replaced his door and got a free opener. We had gotten two yellow light sensors instead of two different colors, so our frustration was already great, when we figure that out...then the remotes were only letting one program, and not the other. I read Dee Jay's gems of information, and we were able to program both remotes and the keypad. Thanks a bunch.
(Posted by JayDee53 (My Page) on Tue, May 17, 05 at 11:01)
Blessings to you for sure...
Also thanks to Don: Posted by Don_ (My Page) on Tue, Feb 15, 05 at 11:01...) for the information on the keypad. You two could do a program or something and save alot of headaches for everyone.

the opener was used, new to us, lol.....thanks again

Hello-

I am renting a home with a Sears Craftsman Model 139.654001 Garage Door Opener. It has 2 remotes, both are Model 139.53778. The wall unit has only 1 button and plugs into an outlet to work. Each of the transmitters has 3 buttons and a red light. The wall unit also has a red light. Recently, when I was returning hom at night, I inadvertantly hit one of the small buttons on one of the transmitters and now it will not work. There are no symbols on it to tell me what each button does AND there is no reset switch on the motor unit. I assume this unit is really old. The other transmitter works fine. Can anyone help me please?

Hitting the wrong button would not have caused a problem. The transmitter may have just died but you can try a new battery.

All 3 buttons do the same thing, you have to change the 1st dip switch to change which button is being used. It must match the switches on the motor unit. That is a very old GDO!

Thanks for the help! The dip switch is set to the button I use. I'm going to try a new battery and see what happens.

My keyless entry pad does not have the "enter" key, just 0-9 digits. Does anyone know how to reprogram this model? 139.53970SRT. The old owners code still works, so the keypad is working, and I have the red reset button by the wires too. Please advise.

Genie doesn't work with Craftsman.

Help! My original 92' Craftsman 41A3624 is being opend by my wife's and my neighbor's home link systems that were programmed for new Genies'. I have only programmed my wife's home-link to activate her Genie side and did not program it to open my Craftsman side. I have erassed all codes several times and even whent as far as to unplug the Genie's while re-programming the Craftsman and visa versa. Any idea's?

RE: Craftsman 1/2 HP Garage Door Opener, My remotes only work when I stand right next to the door - batteries are new - how can I increase the fequency range?

I Billion Code vs. Security+ Info

I believe Randy is correct. I proved it myself as only one of my 4 remotes can be learned if the keypad is learned first. The others must have lost their ability to roll codes. I'm off to the store to get a new rolling code remote. This has been maddening but I founding this thread has kept my sanity.

re. Posted by Randy Smith (rks9@cox.net) on Sun, Nov 13, 05 at 22:27

I just replaced a 1995 Craftsman 1/2 hp chain drive with a new Craftsman 1/2 hp screw drive (much quieter). It comes with 2 security+ remotes that work fine. It has a blue learn button on the back of the motor.

I can't program my old keypay or the old remotes to the new garage door opener. Is that because they are not Security+ type remotes? Do I have to buy a new "Security+" type keypad and extra remotes for them to work.

Frustrating. The manual is silent on this.

I got it figured out. I am renting and received one GDO Remote upon move-in. I bought a keypad and universal (both Clicker) All three remotes together are type 2666A. So they're the same...But, I had the same problem with only one of the three holding the code at a time. THE FIX: The original remote and the Clicker Universal both have dip switches inside (Original had 9 switches and universal had 13). I reset all the dip switches to off or position 3 on both remotes and they both worked (programming with the smart-learn button). Then, I re-programmed my keypad using the new dip-switch sequence. All three remotes now work!

After being fustrated for such a long time about not being able to program both remotes, I followed JayDee53 instructions & everything worked out great.
- make sure your door is closed.
- just poke the learn button on your motor, don't hold it for 1 second or 2, just poke it.
- press the button on your remote control & the light should flash immediately.

Thanks JayDee53

I now have my 2 remotes working, my keypad on the outside & my wall mounted pad on the inside of my garage.

I just bought a house that has a craftsman opener without remotes so I called sears and asked if they could get me one I gave them the model number but they said it is no longer available. So my car has one in the visor. We were able to program that but another car has one and it won't work. Then I tried the other side that is programmed at another garage and it still works there. So we bought the keyless entry and can't get it to program.I'm looking at all the comments but they have the opener what to do without one. we have the button on the wall is that how we program it to the wireless control's?

I have a Craftsman 1/2HP Garage Door Opener Model 139.536. The owners manual says that you can program the one of the three bottons on the remote to turn on or off the lights of the garage door opener. But it doesn't tell you how to do this and I can't find any instructions on the web on the topic. Does anyone know how to do this?

I found this online. Give it a shot.

garage model #13953675SRT manual

pg 33.

To Control the Opener Light (Premium Consoles)

With SECURITY+ remote controls, a push
button can be programmed to operate the opener light without opening the door.

1. With
   the door closed, press
   and hold the remote button that you want to control the light.
2. Press and hold the Light button on the door control
3. Press and hold the Lock button on the door
   control. 4, After the opener light flashes, release all buttons.

Test by pressing the remote push button. The
opener light should turn on or off but the door should not move.

Hi everyone,

I know i sound like a tape recorder but my craftsman 1/2 hp has been working fine for 3 yrs. Not sure what happened to the remotes, but they stopped working. I first tried replacing the batteries but after that didnt work i went out and brought two brand new up to date chamberlain klik3u universal garage remotes. Retail 40 bucks per. They say in the manual they are compatible to my garage opener which was manufactured in 1997. They wont program as well. My garage opens and closes fine. I guess im here to find out if anyone has any other trouble shooting facts to program because the "press the red button like a door bell, hit the button you want programmed" basics isnt working for me. I called chamberlain about the remotes and they basically told me go jump in a lake, all our remotes program fast and easy!!! I need help ppl. Plzzzzz

does the unit respond to the remotes at all? Does the opener work from the wall switch? In the manual for your opener does it have a "vacation" mode. Vacation mode effectively disables the remotes so no one can use them to get access to the house while you are away. For my craftsman opener the wall switch has a green LED. When powered the LED is on steady. When in vacation mode the LED flash constantly. Holding the "lock" button for 5 seconds will toggle vacation mode.

NEED MAJOR HELP!!!! Craftsman 1/2 HP Garage Door Opener - Only one works!

I have spent the past couple hours reading all the comments and suggestions. I then went outside and tried to sync my new opener that I just purchased that states it will work if you have a purple botton on the back of your machine.

Well, only the old one is working. I cannot program the new remote. Any suggestions? I even erased the codes and tried the new one first and nothing. then hit the button on the old one and it work right away.

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