Hi Josh, thanks for the welcome :-) I just put about 1" of the compost on top. I did use the wood shavings too. Today, I scooped about 1-2" of the top soil(compost and wood shavings), threw it away. some of the pots had gnats all over it. I'm probably over watering since it's still very moist at the top. that's why I'm wondering if I should only use compost or mulch when I get more sun and little rain.

You lucky gardener, to have access to well-aged cow manure!In answer to your questions 1, 2, and 3--Yes! When I put the tomato and pepper plants in, I dig a hole, put in about 1 cup of aged manure, and plant. For the squash, zucchini and cucumbers, I make a trench, put in the seed at the proper spacing (well, I do crowd them a bit!) and then sprinkle the manure over the seeds, finishing off with the garden soil. For lettuce, basically the same trench method, except the trench is so shallow it is more of a "scratch" and I don't follow up with the garden soil. Composted manure has nutrients and microbes that are beneficial to plants, and it adds "tilth" to the soil--which simply means the soil accepts and holds moisture more readily, and that it doesn't compact as much. We're in Texas and cow manure rules, but sheep, chicken, and horse manures are good also, as long as they are well-aged! Fresh burns the plants.

Pnbrown: Who says it's ok digging Forrest soil? In the other thread I mentioned that I do take topsoil out if the woods for my garden, but my garden I never till.. I am taking small amount of topsoil maybe a few buckets full.. I am not digging up the whole forest for my garden... Maybe large farms it is unrealistic... But for us small gardeners i believe it is superior! If the large farms had the money I'm sure they would do it as well! Most farmers do till in manure and other amendments.. So they already are importing large quantities of amendments.. The only difference to my method is you aren't tilling it in, you are leaving it on top of the soil and planing in that.. Now you mentioned covering sod with soil is a gold idea is you planned ahead, but it is unrealistic for someone wanted a garden in April/may.. I cannot disagree with you more.. Tilling is much more labor intensive and inconvienent than merely piing up soilnandbcompost in a raised be and planting? Why couldnt you use my method and and plant in April/may? In fact i think my method is alot easier, quicker, convenient, better for the environment and better for the soil.. Joe

Despite various opinions to the contrary, ANY kind of organic mulch will help the situation, some better than others. I personally prefer using compost for this purpose because A) it has a better visual aesthetic for my purposes; B) it offers faster and more complete nutrient delivery than most other choices; and C) there are no problems associated with the compost becoming incorporated into the soil, either intentionally or accidentally. The same cannot be said of wood-based mulches. I've never found compost to form a crust or be water repelling in any sense and it has a greater water retentive ability than most chip-type mulches. It does make a much more accommodating seed bed for weed seeds that may blow in however, even if it does work well to suppress existing weed seeds. Compost is not as long lasting as wood-based mulches and that can be a plus or a minus, depending on how you look at it. Since I like a 'freshly applied' look, I generally apply twice a year. 2-3 inches is generally considered adequate for any mulch type and this is often reduced for certain shallowly rooted plants that prefer a freer oxygen exchange. Avoid piling up around trunks or woody stems. Reapplying the same amount with each application may not be necessary - apply only enough to achieve the intended depth. No dispute on removing the landscape fabric -- it seldom achieves the desired intent very successfully and it is a PITA to work around....or through :-) Hardiness of various plants is highly variable depending on their specific location, exposure and general well-being before entering the winter months. Ensuring they are unstressed and in the best health manageable before encountering cold weather will certainly improve their chances coming out on the other side of the season in good condition. I would not necessarily recommend one pull and replace all plants that suffered damage this past winter unless they are indeed dead. Often, winter cold damage is limited to only foliar issues and tip dieback that can successfully be addressed by some careful pruning.