Huh, smells like spam to me! Message also implies that these generators are manufactured in South Carolina but they sure look like run of the mill China stuff.

and that qualifies as the RIGHT way to do it. it technically makes your panel into a manual transfer switch.

While I would not suggest that anyone choose a brand based on one anecdotal data point, in a slight defense of Generac our 15kW Generac whole-house generator has been outstanding in both performance and reliability for the 8-10 years we have owned it. Our small New England town tends to get power restored later than most because we only have about 1300 people. We lose power at least several times a year. The Generac was particularly nice to have during the 11 days we were without grid power during the ice storm of 2008 (until the Quebecois crew arrived to get us connected again). Maybe we have the only good Generac in the world. Or maybe their build quality is terrible now compared to when we bought ours. But ours is great and has been worth every penny. One of the best purchase decisions we've ever made. Having it wired to power the whole house seems like overkill to some people. Well, to be fair, it is overkill for some people. By "power the whole house" I do not mean turning on every electrical device and running them all full tilt simultaneously. It means that the generator can power any circuit we have rather than a select few. To be honest, I just didn't want to think about what circuits to connect. I did want to be able to use anything I have anywhere on the property. Maybe I need to keep the heater going in the cow trough and a light on in the chicken house because it's 10 degrees outside. Or it is August and I need to run the two freezers in the barn because they are full of moose. Maybe I want to watch TV in this room and use the laptop in that room. I want to do whatever I want or need without rewiring all the buildings or moving things around just so I could pick a few circuits to be powered. And I can. bws

I would suggest just installing a 400 amp manual, non-fused, service entrance rated transfer switch with an inlet to plug your generator into. This way, you will be able to power your entire interior panel and have the luxury of using any circuit that you need. If the only objective here were to service the house main panel (interior panel?), I'd have no qualms with this approach, but it doesn't address the two-service configuration. [Also, assuming the remote house disconnect is fused at 200A, then a lower-rated transfer switch (e.g., 200A) could be used below the disconnect. Note that the OP still hasn't confirmed that the disconnect is fused, but I think he's implying that. It makes sense that it'd be fused in order to protect the 4-ought AL wire feeding the house.] **** If, as is likely, that water pump in the barn is 220V, the simple 120V extension cord option for the barn doesn't appear to be a viable option so, yes, I think you're looking at a two-transfer switch design of some sort. My hunch is that any kind of single switch designed to handle two services would put you into some really pricey industrial hardware, so it's probably a case of "two is cheaper than one". To further flesh out Option #2, you could consider installing a j-box with a 120/240V generator inlet spliced to two ouput feeds--one to each transfer switch, located immediately downstream of the discos. What remains to be vetted, to my way of thinking, is the issue of how the grounding system works with that three-wire feeder. I hope that one of the double-E's here comes along to weigh in on that because I don't feel qualified to give you a confident recommendation about how to bond (or not bond) at the generator itself.