Onionology is complicated. Will try to clarify a little: First a little background: "onion" is a huge catch-all imprecise category encompassing a highly diverse clan, allium cepa and other allium species as well. What we are talking about here are bi-annual bulbing onions, grown from seed. All varieties of bulbing onions ultimately derive from the so-called "spanish" onion. They fall into two rough categories, long-day and short-day, based on how much daylight there is around the solstices where the plant is growing. So bulbing onions are highly sensitive to photo period. The first most important thing to know is whether your latitude is "short" day or "long" day. As it happens, Kentucky is kind of in the middle, either might work though long day is probably more likely to do well. There are also a few hybrid varieties called "intermediate" day that might do best of all for you. Short-day varieties are sown in fall and come to full size in late spring. They require more than just low latitude, they also require a mild winter climate, about z7b or warmer, so some regions of KY might work and others not. Long-day are sown soon after the winter solstice and planted out in early spring and are full size in mid to late summer, depending. An exception is the walla-walla which is adapted to the PNW and I think there may be one or two others long-days that can be fall-sown in mild northern climes. So the infamous "sets" are small bulbs grown from seed and then planted to grow for the plant's second season. The plant really wants to bolt and grow seed rather than a bulb. Sets are a scam perpetrated by seed companies. They are mostly a waste of time and space. Buy plants grown from seed in texas next year, they come at just the right time for planting out and the results will be far better.

Just about anything you desire will grow in a greenhouse if the temperature can be nicely controlled. Sweet corn and cabbage tends to take up a lot of room, however, as do pumkins, squash and similar large or viney plants. I am in zone 6 where we have pretty cold winters and long cold spells below freezing. My greenhouse is heated with an electric heater and though it will keep everything above 55F in even 10 degree weather the heating bill eats me alive. So I don't use the greenhouse except to start my garden plants for the spring and summer; typically I will start up in early march. Some things are easier to grow than others. Radishes, and lettuce are good things to start with. Yes, peppers and tomatoes will do ok, and though there are some special varieties bred for commercial operations, I'd suggest you just talk to a major seed supplier for variety recommendations. Tomato Growers Supply in Fort Meyers Florida would be a good place to start. Think about your heat source and how you will control temperature: one excursion down into below freezing temperature and all the tomatoes and peppers will be lost. Daytime temperature on a bright sunny day can rise to unbelievable levels! Even in the wintertime, and specially down there in Oklahoma, you could have a 140 degree day in the greenhouse--if so the plants will cook and NO MATTER WHAT YOU ARE TRYING TO GROW it's all over! Even up here it's very common for me to open the ridge vent and the greenhouse door in March on a bright sunny day. Recognize that someone has to be there to decide what is necessary and then do it. Or you must have excellent ventilation controls that work automatically. Good luck!

I think I know the reason that you may get conflicting information from different stores. You don't have to use a primer if you sand well and are painting over a properly dulled and clean surface. The problem is that a lot of homeowners don't know how to sand. I know it sounds silly, but they just don't do it correctly. So, for them a primer will help because a primer will bond better than a paint to a surface that is not clean and dull. The safe thing to tell a homeowner/DIY'er is to sand and use a primer just in case they don't sand well enough there is some insurance with the primer step. All that said, being that they are cabinets that are old and are currently painted with oil based paint, I would recommend priming no matter what. You don't need to prime over Gardz. Gardz is a primer. The only drawback to using Gardz is that it is clear so using it has no hiding power and will get you no closer to your white topcoat color, but it is still fine to paint right over it. I think I would use an acrylic bonding primer like Zinnser 123 for this project. I'm not too familiar with SW paints, but I assume their 'adhesion primer' is the same basic type of product.

Floorman here 40 years experience professional installer First. You have a bigger leak under floor if it buckling. Sound to me you would be better to have vinyl plank installed instead of wood. If you want a professional job it will cost you $10 plus for wood and labor no furniture. Labor alone is $5 in Missouri. The cheap hardwood is all going to be soft easy to scratch. Vinyl plank would be cheaper. Labor is $1.50 to $2.00 sq ft. Its glue down or it can be loose laid if you buy that type. If a peace gets scratched easier to replaced even for DIY but that peace will have to be glued. Vinyl plank looks like real wood now days. Water won’t hurt it as long as not a major leak. If your on concrete for wood or vinyl a moisture test should be taken first to see if there’s any hydrostatic pressure if there is it shouldn’t lay either one would have to fix problem first. With vinyl plank if it is glued you might need 1/4” underlayment on sub floor. But loose snap in vinyl plank you shouldn’t need underlayment. If your floor is wavy so will the vinyl plank look. Just my advice.