I usually "rootwash" small container stock (band pot to 1 gal size, sometimes up to #5) if I am planting during the dormant season - esp. early spring. I'll also do it in fall even if there are still leaves, as long as the weather is cool (mid-Oct or later here) since by then the plant is essentially "ready" for dormancy, even if leaves haven't fallen just yet...slightly premature leaf loss is usually trivial in my experience. Sometimes I avoid it if the roots are very dense and fibrous, since it's hard to fill in the soil, but for fleshy rooted plants it works well. Larger plants it's possible, but harder without a second person there to help stabilize the tree as you fill it in. I usually shake gently and let clumps remain - if there are a few feeder roots in a nice clump I don't necessarily take off the media if nothing appears dead, crisscrossed, or circling in that particular clump. I find that, among other things it accomplishes the following: 1. Better contact with native soil. No "interface" issues (the small clumps of potting media notwithstanding, but they're usually small enough to not pose an issue, and in fact help prevent root dessication/damage to feeder roots). 2. Better anchorage. Once the soil settles in (which should be ASAP if you water properly) the tree is nearly as well-anchored as it would have been if grown on-site. No "ball and socket" issues that you get with both container and B&B that keeps original soil/media intact. 3. Examine and correct root deformities. Many times, circling and potentially-girdling roots can be un-circled and straighened out. Even if not, it's easier to get a good, accurate cut to remove roots that are beyond repair. 4. Less water needed. At first, this isn't so true, but with container stock, you have to water copiously until enough rootws have grown out into your native soil (which is 99% of the time far more moisture-retentive than typical container media). If you bare-root first, your native soil IS where the roots lie, so you only have to really water enough to keep the area just moist. Slightly moister than an established plant, since the plant does still have to regenerate some of the fine feeder roots and root hairs, but not as much as a container-grown plant, which has most of the roots still within the container medium for quite a while. Even compared to B&B, since more roots are usually preserved vs. B&B, you could get away with slightly less watering after the first month or two. This post was edited by hairmetal4ever on Wed, Apr 23, 14 at 13:28

Thanks all for the comments. I actually attempted to listen to Ken (and get the smallest tree size they had). A few years back (2012) Ken had warned me about avoiding instant gratification yet I went ahead and bought the 4" tree and had it "professionally installed". two years later I have about 1 inch of growth and a tree that is finally looking healthy, hopefully on its way to recovery. I would have been way better off going with a smaller one. I actually did learn my lesson and searched long and hard for this very specific tree, the problem is that there are only very few nurseries that carry them since they were recently made available to the public. After countless hours of searching on the web for mail order options and calling several nurseries I found one that actually offered this tree (They had to order from out of state and shipped to my home during their Spring delivery). They offered it in many sizes and I had requested the absolute smallest one they had which unfortunately was still fairly large at 1.75 inches. (I like the smaller sizes for the reasons that were noted but also because they are a heck of a lot easier to move around and plant!) I would have much preferred a smaller one, but it was either that size tree or no tree and I pulled the trigger site unseen and ended up with this unfortunate situation. I think the lesson is to always make sure you have an opportunity to inspect the trees carefully before buying and be aware that underneath several inches of soil you could have a mess of a root system. As far as grafting, it is my understanding that since disease "resistant" elms are cloned (in the case of the Jefferson Elm, it's an exact copy of the tree located in the Washington Mall in DC (link: below) While I have read that it is best to grow them on their "own root", I believe they are often grafted to non DED resistant American Elm rootstock since it is cheaper/easier. It is possible I have misinterpreted what I've read on the Internet. Here is a link that might be useful: Jefferson Elm Tree Info

That'll work for Lady In Red, it's a plant in a big hurry. My plants started in March were in bloom around the beginning of June, and heavily by mid June. This should be treated as an annual. Black & Blue is a cultivar of Salvia Guarantica so you need a cutting or a plant to start from. It might make it through your winters if you have well drained soil on the sandy side. Folks overwinter cuttings all time of this one indoors, because north of zone 8 you can't be certain it will be back. Overwintered indoors plants can be blooming when they are set out in May. Those plants often suffer some set backs after transplant, so you'd be safer thinking early July with heavy blooming not beginning until mid to late in the same month.

I am not a 100% sure but I think the lime would not be helping. A few salvias that grow on limestone like lime but these 2 dont.It may be beneficial to take cuttings in case off the worst case scenario that they die. I have both off these salvias and they do like sun but I think if it is really hot they prefer a bit off shade. I would cut the plants back and repot in a pot in the shade in case they can be saved. It sounds like they are reacting to something in the soil. Sorry I cant be more help. I hope they make it:) Annette