Mine are starting to flower again. Some are busting out of their pots, I am still trying to get help me repot, as now they are too heavy for me to lift. Even my large 6ft 2" fire chief friend can't lift many of them. Postage is so expensive for me right now I can't offer to send any at this time. Hint the near white ones will not live long without a host mother green plant or leaf attached, they will also need more sun, but not so much to burn them. The also may need to be grown very dry or they will rot, now I am writing from my own experience. I now have 350 of these plants and of course some are duplicates. If you take cutting off of any variegated off set be sure leave at least 4" or rhizome, or you will lose the variegation. Remember that they can break out of any pot you put them in so don't use expensive pots. I have had a lot of experience with this occuring. This time of the year I have cut down on watering , when it rains I water them, and then wait 10 days before I water again, if no rain is in sight I will water them. Mine are under cover so are protected and are dependent on me for water and food, heat, air, yes they need air like we do, a fan going will help them with the cold weather, that is what they use in the winter in England where I visited many green houses with snow on the ground. Now with this little game I play, it is okay for the leaves to wrinkle and if your not using Peat Moss for the soil to dry out a bit, however when you water the rhizomes will swell and this just may break the pot. Dried Peat Moss if hard to get wet again and will shrink away from the sides of the pot, and the water will go down the sides and the root ball will not get any water. This year we have had such screwy weather we don't know when to water or not. Putting my finger down an inch or soil will be of no use, I need to see how far down it is dry, and not just 2". So I use a pencil or chop stick and plunge it down into the center of the pot to check on how much water the soil is holding. I wish I could send instruction articles to you for a guide, and what I am saying here is only a general guide. I wouuld be foolish to tell you how much to water, for many reason. I can't name a plant from pictures, I need to touch it and examine all parts of the plant. The color of the outer skin of the rhizome is often the clue for identification. Enjoy your plants and watch for flowers, give them some love. Did not proof. Norma

LOL at the vine on the tree pic. Here's a few more plants with suggestive names. Virgin's Bower - Clematis virginiana "Cuisse de Nymphe" Rose, AKA "Maiden's Blush" (The French name translates to "Nymph's Thigh") Hosta "Striptease" Coleus varieties "Burlesque", "Fishnet Stockings", and "Private Dancer" "Pink Peculiar" Cuphea ignea looks naughty to me, but to you it may look completely innocent. Naughty is in the mind of the beholder.

This will happen when you drastically move a plant from a shaded indoor environment to almost full sun. I would say that most indoor plants should be moved outside to a shaded area for a couple of weeks and then moved into an area with more sun afterwards to prevent leaf burn. They should recover fine though.

We moved 3 years ago and I lost my big covered porch where I used to keep most everyone...it would get great morning sun and then shade. I'd harden them all off there and then slowly move them out into the garden. Now my only goal is to not burn them. So far every summer here, I've tried a new shady area thatturns our to be not shady enough and I burn some. I finally gave up and bought shade cloth this year.