Bury the bare stem part so the cluster of leaves sits just at or a bit below the soil line. Dave

I just got a Dicentra spectablis 'Alba' last year. I also have several of the pink ones too, but they are growing in separate beds. They are all growing in mostly shade, with a well-drained soil. The pink ones are growing close to the hose, so they get more water, which they probably like, nevertheless IIRC the white one retained its foliage longer than the pink. Mine bloom in early-mid May and that could be 2 weeks earlier this year, so I would get yours in the ground ASAP. I have never planted bare-root, however, they have been very easy to divide and transplant and would guess that the roots would do best if they fan out? Lovely plants - these are the pink ones from last year - they bloomed well despite having been divided the fall before, into 4 different plants. I expect them to be much bigger this Spring because the pink ones get huge. I have a pic of the white one but not on this computer. I expect a bigger show on that one this Spring too.

""Hope all your seedlings grow well for you. "" Thank you Rick, so do I. Thanks also for mentioning collar root/root collar. Never heard of it so I had to google. The seedling mix I am using is turface - sand - bark/coir so it's still pretty gritty and enable gas exchange. I have to remember that when I use less gritty mix in the future as an experiment. Kirk's idea to use transparent "pots" is excellent. To mimic a real pot, I might wrap them in black plastic. Just pull the plastic back for a peek. Pagan: are those 1ý" x 1ý" cells you're using? I'm pressed for space with my seed trays and not sure how close I dare sow them. I read somewhere they're supposed to be 1" apart but I have done 4 seeds (Obesums) in the 1ý x 2ü" cells, sometimes even 5; and 3 seeds of Arabicums since they're much bigger. The first sowing was 1 seed per 1üx1ü, that was before the bug got me. Then I ran out of space real quick, lol. ""The most disruptive thing to happen to my seedlings was not even the root torture but the move into gritty mix"" So, what happened. If you posted this before, just point me to the right direction.

Frank, quite honestly, I think the best answers will come from some of Al's writings. He should have a thread floating around the Container Gardening Forum about fertilizing, and I know he recommends Foliage Pro, which has all the essential nutrients and micro-nutrients plants need. I remember he once wrote a piece about the specialized fertilizers and bloom boosters, revealing that even the manufacturers know many of the hyped products are just gimmicks. I think the quote was something like... and I'm paraphrasing, here... "it's easier to give the public what they think they need than it is to reeducate them." Personally, I water with a diluted solution of fertilizer all year round... the reason being, the more inorganic mediums we use don't contain or hold onto much nutrition. Therefore, I offer a buffet-like environment to my plants, ensuring a constant supply of food in a low dose, and they take what they need. Because I'm flushing them every time through thorough watering, and watering more often than I would be if I used a peat based medium, what's in the pot is constantly exchanging... out with the old, in with the new. Over winter, I water with the weakened fertilizer water 3 out of 4 times... on the 4th watering, I flush with clear water. I mix it at about 1/4 strength. I keep resting bulbs a little drier than ones in full growth mode, too. But when I see new growth, I go back to the regular "schedule"... and I put schedule in quotes because the only schedule is giving my plants what they need, when they need it. There is no actual schedule, like watering once a week whether they need it or not, or something... that's how my Mom used to water her houseplants, and she killed more plants than anyone I know! I don't know if this helps you, Frank... but I would absolutely go take a peek at what Al recommends.