Keepitlow, I'm not sure they're increasing on a global scale, it's just that societies are much more mobile now, and bring pests along with them, so that there is a larger diversity of pests here. A couple more imported pests that come to mind are Japanese beetles introduced in the early 1900s, and the very recently introduced spotted wing drosophila fly. Once introduced, it has generally taken a long time for some of these pests to become omnipresent. Codling moth, even though introduced with the first settlers, didn't find it's way to Kansas until 1850. Japanese beetles, even though introduced 90 years ago, are still not found in all KS counties today. However, in the future with our society even more mobile, it may take less time for these newly introduced pests to fully disseminate. OFM has become more of a problem due to mutation. Originally it was exclusively a stone fruit pest. In recent years it has become a pest in commercial apple orchards as well. I've also read it can be a problem in some home orchards where there are lots of stone fruit and apples planted together. To the naked eye, the larva are indistinguishable from CM. Lastly, introduced pests are not limited to fruit. Bedbugs have been practically unheard of here for half a century. Remember the old adage, "sleep tight and don't let the bedbugs bite"? That came from a time when people slept on hanging rope beds. Bedbugs could be somewhat thwarted by tightening up the ropes to prevent the bed from touching the floor. In recent times some hotels (even nice ones) have had problems with bedbugs being reintroduced from overseas travelers. That'd be a case where I'm going to kill some nature, and feel really good about it.

See the black/purple chiles closest to the sun and with the least leaf cover? Common with chiles.....

Monco, What garden zone are you in and where are you located? Knowing those can affect the types of answers you get. You can add them to your signature. As missingtheobvious says, it usually isn't a good idea to water in the evening because damp leaves promote disease, but if you are in a desert area (very low humidity) like I am, it isn't a concern. Your plants look pretty good, especially considering they had to recover from herbicide damage. As to the apparent lack of growth on your cherry tomatoes: You don't say what variety they are, but the DTM (Days to Maturity from transplanting) for most cherry type tomatoes is 55-60 days and up. Which would mean that since you transplanted them on June 11, around August 11 you will likely be up to your ears in cherry tomatoes! Your baby 'maters look like they are right on schedule. One thing I would suggest you may wish to modify is your water pattern. As a general rule, tomatoes need an inch of water every week. An inch of rain is exactly that, water that is one inch deep. One inch of rainfall equals 4.7 gallons of water per square yard. Cool weather or soil with lots of clay needs will be less, hot weather or sandy soil will need more. Dig down with your finger about 4", is the growing medium wet, dry, or just right? If it is wet, don't water, if dry then water. If it is just right, check again the next day. Water deeply once or twice a week. Watering daily encourages shallow roots which means the plant is affected more by variations in soil moisture/temperature. In my garden during the heat of the summer (like now, they last few days have ranged from 90 to 103 degrees F), I water deeply every 4-5 days, early spring I may only water every 8-9 days and when the weather is moderatly warm (70-80 degrees), about once a week. In the long run, deeper watering requires less water because there is less evaporation. Mulching heavily (to a depth of 6 - 8 inches) with compost, straw, hay, rotted leaves, grass clippings, even shredded paper or sheets of paper or cardboard helps maintain a consistent moisture level. Betsy

Not all "fish fertilizers" are the same by any means. So what specifically did you use? What are the N-P-K ratings on it? What does the label say about frequency of application? As a general guideline when a pepper plant is that yellow, unless it is one of the varieties that are normally yellowish, then it is not normal and something is clearly wrong. If that cause is lack of nutrients then yes, more frequent feeding may well be needed. Dave