Sara is right about the grass needing to be wet before you apply wnf products. This is counter intuitive because no other products go onto wet grass. It's also a pain in the butt because the grass you watered will often dry enough before you get to it that the wnf again goes onto dry grass. You almost need two people to do it right. Your grass seeding plan is almost certainly doomed. It is too late for even a spring seeding. Spring seeded lawns typically end up being weedy with crabgrass by July. The new grass plants cannot compete in the heat against crabgrass, so the crabgrass wins. Fall is the time to seed. Furthermore you should not rototill prior an area for a lawn. Scott's recommends rototilling, but it is our contention that they do it so they can sell more products later on when you try to fix your lawn. Rototilling destroys the soil structure and kills off much of the soil microbes. It can take months to restore the biology and years to restore the structure. Once the structure is repaired, the surface is left bumpy. Still further, don't add more topsoil unless you have low spots that need to be raised to correct poor drainage. Adding topsoil always changes your drainage. At worst it can redirect water into your basement. At best it will correct low spots. Adding topsoil simply because you're seeding is not a good reason. Mother Nature does not add topsoil when She seeds. Yes, lots of newbies screw up their lawns, but so do lots of experience lawn folks. I had been taking care of my lawns incorrectly for 40 years before I found this forum. I had 40 years of experience to unlearn before I got things turned around. The Scott's approach is expensive because you are applying fertilizer at the wrong time of year and end up applying extra later to fix the damage caused by the original poor timing. It also makes the blanket assumption that all yards need to be treated for weeds and insects. This is not true and is a waste of insecticide and herbicide. These products do harm the soil microbes. Lastly (at least all I can think of for now), Scott's fertilizer program does not address the primary issues with lawns of improper watering and mowing. Fertilizer is last on the list of importance in the elements of lawn care. If you're watering and mowing right, you likely will not need either herbicide or insecticide. Oh one more thing. Scott's advertising would have everyone seeding in the spring. I can't remember seeing seed advertising in the fall. Spring seeding sells a LOT more herbicide as people try to stop crabgrass from its inevitable domination of the spring seeded lawn. When lawns are seeded in the fall there should be no crabgrass the following year.

When the leaves on the roses are the size of the first joint on your pinkie finger, it's time to feed your roses. Feed them every month thereafter with a well-balanced, non- weed and feed fertilizer. Roses are heavy feeders and like variety, so they are not particular about what they get as long as they GET.

Most seeds are produced by only a very few actual growers. The seed "companies" you usually buy from are mostly just repackagers of seeds, not growers. There are a few exceptions. So your best bet is usually the cheapest seeds. Here's a link to GardenWeb's resource list. Great info here. Here is a link that might be useful: Garden Web's Garden Bazaar

Are you planning to spray the whole yard with atrazine, or just spot spray? I would spot spray each & every suspected Crabgrass head, but I would not broadcast a spray across the entire yard--That's a bit wasteful & atrazine is tough stuff. It's really not too late on the preM this year, all this rain & cool weather has kept them behind schedule in my yard. The atrazine should be used in combination with a good preM to keep the heads from coming back anyway. I use dimension & it actually kills baby Crabgrass up to a single tiller, so it can be applied later than the others on the market. Late app plus late growth means you're not too late for preM & it will make a world of difference. I also recommend a product called bonide Sedge ender, which targets Crabgrass & nutsedge specifically, including a preM already mixed in. Ace has both these products, but the big box stores usually only carry fast acting stuff to keep you coming back.