Hi Diog, The reason why I asked you is because I suspect you have impaired root function for some reason. Either from burnt roots first suspect, salt toxitity or sometthing else.. I find that some plants grown exactly the same way can have totally different reactions to a many of things around the, Citrus no exception.. There are many different reasons for yellow leaves, and disqualitfying one possiblt culprit at a time can narrow it down to your problem.. For instance..All this can cause yellowing leaves.. * Using organic ferilizers that either don't deliver the nutrients in a reasonable amount of time, or that clog up air/porous spaces in the mix. Then some burn roots. * Over heated roots can be impaired, or past root damage from just one die off from hot pots can cause nutrient availablity concerns. You say the the temps are cooler, but that does mean that the intense sun can't damage roots,in hot containers. * Salt toxitity from using mixes that allow salt deposits to accumilate from tap water and fretilizers which burn off fine root hairs that do the bull work. * Temps too cold...Root function is impaired when temps drop below 55 degrees or rise above 90 degrees..Not too bad if once in a while, but if consistent, then this can happen * Using a ferilizer without Ca and Mg, or those without minor elements.. * Too much of a certain nutrient over another..Usually caused by using certain elements that antagonizes another.. * Effect on pH . Just by increasing soil pH, phosphate may be released and increased in the soil. But if the pH goes unduly high, phosphates can also be tied up. Using more than enough lime can cause the pH to increase by so much that this happens. In addition, pH can tie up other elements as it increases, such as boron, iron, manganese, copper and zinc. I hope you get to the bottom of it.. Make sure your pots are not over heating, that the sun is not directly hitting the pots and that you use a good soluable readily available feritilizer with all the macro and minor nutrients.. Make sure your water solution is acidic enough to allow the nutrients you provide to be utilized if your water pH is to high. Make sure the temps are consistently above 55 degrees. Don't over water or under water.. I wish you all the luck. Mike * This post was edited by meyermike_1micha on Mon, Jun 2, 14 at 19:48

Patty, the nitrogen in fertilizers can make the growing medium become either more acidic (lower the pH) or less acidic/more basic (raise the pH). There are three types of nitrogen used in fertilizers: ammoniacal nitrogen (NH4+), nitrate nitrogen (NO3-) and urea. Fertilizing with ammoniacal nitrogen causes the medium-pH to DECREASE (become MORE acid) because H+ (acidic protons) are secreted from the tree's roots. Urea is converted into ammoniacal nitrogen in the growing medium, and therefore can be thought of as another source of ammoniacal nitrogen. In contrast, fertilizing with a nitrate nitrogen fertilizer INCREASES medium-pH (becomes LESS acid/more caustic) because the tree's roots secrete bases (OH-). Stressbaby is correct in stating that 7 is a neutral pH. Numbers lower than 7 denotes an acid solution, and numbers grater than 7 denotes a basic solution. The pH scale is also logrithmic. So a potting soil with a pH of 6 is ten times more acidic than a potting soil of pH 7. A potting soil with a pH of 5 is ten times more acid than a potting soil of pH 6, and 100 times more acidic than a potting soil of pH 7. A potting soil with a pH of 4 is ten times more acid than a potting soil with a pH of 5, and a 100 times more acid than a pH of 6 and 1000 times more acidic than a potting soil with a PH of 7. An so no and so on. Citrus will ALWAYS take up nutrients in a 5-1-3 ratio no matter what formulation you give them. Much more important than what type of fertilze to use for flower fruit set is an ample supply of water. Water is the prerequisite for ALL STAGES of fruit development. Water stress is particularly dangerous during fruit set, leading to a massive drop of fruitlets. Increase in size and juice content are also largely dependent upon the availability of water. So at bloom and fruit set, keep the moisture level of the growing medium up. This is where a well draining, lite aerable "soil" that at the same time retains a higher amount of water, such as CHC's, becomes important. Nutrition from fertilizing is important as well. Potassium plays a special role in fruit development. I would recomend a fertilization with a fertilizer formula higher in nitrogen and potassium, such as a fertilizer with a 5-1-3 ratio, or something more or less close. I also give my trees a nitrogen/potassium foliar spray, using Potassium Nitrate, a month before bloom and again a month after fruit set. Take care. - Millet

No, it's a yellow 7 pot but is it a 7 pot primo, 7 pot brain strain, 7 pot fill in the blank ect? In comparison this is a 7 pot brain strain.

They're full of seeds but they'd be a hybrid (MS x some other rose in my garden). ... Tho, i just checked and this rose is likely protected under its 2003 patent. So propagation is a no- no either way. I got my rose from northland rosarium. I think they propogate by cuttings, so you might get the same rose i have. I don't mean to be a smarty pants and I apologize if you already know this...but black spot can be helped by not watering the leaves of your plant, providing air circulation by not crowding it in tight spaces or dense garden jungles and picking off or raking up any black spot leaves. It's easy for me to give advice though- we have very low humidity so it's easy to cure any that starts up (forinstance if i leave on any last seasons dead or ill leaves, it gets going on those). As far as pruning,- it tends to stimulate healthy new growth.... i dont know how sparse your plant is, but you might try cutting it down by 1/3 now. Alternately, If you dont have leaves down the plant, maybe just prune a portion of the worst looking canes down to 2 feet (2/3rds). If your plant responds well, bring the rest down. Or next year bring the whole plant uniformly down by half to 2/3 in spring. David austin (the father of English roses) recommends pruning a second time in summer in warm climates ( beyond deadheading) As well as doing the first pruning in spring. I generally find (tho i am just a hobbiest gardener) that modern roses respond well to pruning in most cases (tho, maybe not past late summer as you dont want to stimulate growth when it should be getting readybto go dormant??) I think most modern roses can become overgrown duds if never pruned. ...So you might find pruning improves things (as well as proper fertilizing!:-). But don't just take my advice- If I was you, i'd ask the forum for advice on renovating your overgrown shrub now. Then You'll get a variety of experienced viewpoints- from differing climates ...then you might choose the most relevant experience to follow. I find the warmer climate gardeners (LA and such) have their own experiences that don't always match the cold climate experiences- (especially pruning) though overall, they all have great input with regard to rose quirks and habits.