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plumeria leafs that are black and drying out.

15 years ago

Ok, so I put my new pink pansy JL branch in a pot, did what I was told, and now the new leafs that are coming out are drying out and turning black. PLEASE HELP ME! WHAT AM I DOING WRONG!!!!!

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Comments (6)

houstontexas123
15 years ago
it should be ok, as long as the cutting itself stays firm.

what is your setup at the moment? any flourescent lighting? what temp are you keeping it?
marielt
Original Author
15 years ago
I have a flourescent light and in the day I keep it by the window to get sunlight. I just got a heating pad for it last nite but haven't used it yet. I'm not sure about the temp. How would I know that?
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I have a black maple (Acer nigrum) seedling I grew from seeds I bought from Sheffield's. Although I originally had several good seedlings, several died in a "rabbit incident" (they got eaten) a few days after putting them outside, along with several A. japonicums, A. palmatums, and A. shirasawanums. This one was right in the middle of a growth flush, so I didn't want to transition it outdoors until the leaves from this flush matured. Today, I just transplanted it into the smart pot from a Rootmaker cell - the roots looked nice and white. I noticed that the two lowest leaves of the current growth flush are starting to look a bit dry, or necrotic. In the pic below, if you look at the lowest new leaf (the reddish looking ones), there's a spot there on the right side, near the sinus between the lobes, that looks almost as if it is drying out, or necrotic. It looks a bit whitish in the pic. The opposite leaf on the other side, not visible here, looks similar. I don't think it's getting too little water. Too much might be an issue, but I let it get just dry between waterings, and it has never wilted. Also, the roots look healthy. Now I'm concerned the transplanting might do it in, since it was already getting this "dry spot" before I moved it. Any idea what this is?
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Go buy a common garden fungicide (ie.Schultz). 1. cut mushy back to all green, let it dry an hour. spray with the fungicide. I then cover it with common household spackle to seal and make it look better. It will seal itself, but the spackle cuts down on cracking, new fungus, and looks clean. 2. This probably will not affect the plant, but I cannot see where the leaves are coming from. I would do the same as in #1 and leave the leaves if you can trim around. 3. Leave it. No mushy no problem, yet. Spray the tip and watch it. Some tips are slower to get started after frosts. 4. Spray the black and watch it. As long as it stays hard, the new growth will channel the energy and the hard black knob will just look black. You can trim it off with an exacto knife but I just let them go. I live in So,Cal and with light winter frost, then sping fog then rain, I have a battle with black tip every spring. Once it heats up, the problem is gone. But if you do not treat mushy stems they can kill the entire plant. Your plant look generally healthy, so spray the black tips after rain or if it gets wet. Also, on #1 make cuts at an angle so water does not sit on the cut. I cannot see how deep that hole is but this is the one to watch, the others should be ok. For future reference, a blanket or a sheet is not a good cover. These become wet and then freeze onto the plant, If you hunt around in farm supply shops you should be able to find some commercial frost cloth which is not expensive and you can fashion a cover for your plant. Frost cloth does not transmit cold so you can go into the high twenties for a short time and the plant stays protected. You can also put poles in the ground that come out in the spring, you put a cover over the plant because the settling of the damp frost is the most harmful to the plumeria.
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The first defoliation was most likely a function of the change in light between where it was sited at school and the lower light area where it is/was at home. It's very possible that the crispy leaf tips/margins are being caused by over-watering, a high level of salts in the soil (from fertilizer and dissolved solids in your tap water), or a combination of both. If your plant is wilting when you can still detect moisture in the soil, it's almost certain that root function is impaired, and the plant 'perking up' as evening approaches supports that thought. Again, this may be the result of an overly water-retentive soil and the lack of air in the root zone that comes with it, or a high level of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil, or both. Even the recurring insect infestation can be resultant of a suppressed metabolism due to poor root health. The fix when your plant wilts while the soil is still moist is less water, not more, and a flushing of the soil to remove excess salts that may be inhibiting water uptake. A high level of salts in the soil can do the same thing to plants that salt does to cured meats, like ham, bacon, summer sausage ..... When the level of salts in the soil is higher than the level of salts in plant or animal cells (meat), the salt actually pulls moisture from cells. When this condition is severe, a condition called plasmolysis can result as cells collapse and plasma is torn from cell walls. Commonly, we call it fertilizer burn. Al PS - it's much more important to shade the container than the foliage. A light colored cache pot filled with an absorbent material you can keep moist (between the 2 pots) or a pot-in-pot arrangement with the outside pot being white or a light color would probably go a long way toward keeping root temps out of the danger zone.
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Your soil may be moist under the desert cracking, but the top surface is dry from hot temps? May not be draining properly...staying moist too long and not having a bit of drying before rain and soaking again. Could we see a pic of the rest of the healthy garden? Looks very healthy up top. Was it standing up on its own for a while? Location, your zone, and a bit more info...when they were planted etc and if these were starts, recently purchased, your first gardening attempt...or at it for years in the same soil and this just happened... I would mound up some more soil, even a bit from the surrounding area, then give some nice shady mulch. I use straw around my tomatoes. Since you chose to not give supports, (fine to do that), but they supported themselves, and then toppled over from their fruit weight. A sudden bend can cause problems. You could dig it up and lay it back down deeper and sideways covering most of the stem and the bend area. A hay or straw mulch suppresses weeds but you don't seem to have a weed problem.
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houstontexas123
15 years ago
i bought an outdoor temp gauge and keep it near my plants. i used it primarily when i was growing a few orchids in my dorm room. keep the light about 8-12" above the tops of the plants.
yvonned
15 years ago
I have a similar problem with a plumeria that has sun damage.
The tree was doing so well this summer. It grew very well and bloomed all summer long. When the nights started to get chilly we decided to put in our small greenhouse. We neglected to open the top of the greenhouse during the day time hours and the warm sunlight filtering through the top of the greenhouse burned our plumerias leaves. The base of the tree remains firm and solid with no sign of sponginess or rot.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to what to do with the stems and leaves that have been burned and are getting spongy? I have pictures but I am not sure as to how to post them.
lil_cali_gal
15 years ago
Yvonne if the leaves haven't already fallen off, you can cut them off. Be sure to leave about an inch or so of the leaf stem attached to the main "trunk" The part that's left will yellow, dry up and fall off on its own.This will keep it from "bleeding" latex. Lucky you to have blooms all summer, way to go !!

You must have some powerful sunshine !! The only time my leaves got sunburned inside the green house was in the middle of summer. I draped a big piece of shade cloth over the top of the gh and solved this problem.

Cali~
yvonned
15 years ago
Hi Cali,
Thank you for your input! I did go ahead and cut the leaves off. I also cut some of the branch that had been burned and was becoming rotten. The rest of the stalk looks good and feels solid, no sponginess.
I put it in the garage as I read is a good thing to do doing the dormant season.
When I bring it out I think that I will do what you did and drape a cloth over the top of the green house. Good idea.
I was SO disappointed when that happened to our beautiful plant. But this is the way you learn about plants and what to do and what NOT to do!
Thanks again!
Yvonne

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