Easy to answer, not so easy to accomplish. ORGANIC MATERIAL (OM). Mulch all your leaves into your grass. Topdress your lawn with compost. Make your own compost. Recylcle all your paper, kitchen scraps, Old k-mart stock certificates. Use organic fertilizers. Feed your soil microbes. Condition your lawn for summer's drought. Stop (or at least minimize )using chemicals on your lawn. Since you are re-seeding every year, use top quality elite cultivars of seed. With a good organic rich soil, you will not have to dethatch, aerate or re-seed a quality KBG lawn EVER. A good soil retains water thus reducing the need for irrigation. Check out the organic lawn forum and the soil and compost forum. If you can change your mindset, you can have a beautiful lawn by September and next spring will blow you away. Good luck with your lawn, Razzy from Nebraska.

I got bored with the 20 jugs of rose seeds not sprouting, so Im multi-tasking those and putting some other seeds in to germinate. If those roses wanna grow, they gotta prove it to me. I can also snag some cuttings from my friend who gave me the seeds. :)

I always keep my mower at the highest setting and I water only once a week, if the grass needs it. I am pretty good about that kind of stuff. I'll take a look to see if I can spot any of this out there now. Though I may also have a picture of it from last year. I will check when I get home - at work now. It doesn't rear its ugly head until around august and when it does it just takes over. It comes up in the same places every year. Basically it grows low to the ground and spreads out runners. There are no flowers on it. Each arm or leg or whatever you want to call it has little oval shaped green leaves that shoot out on from both sides up the whole arm. The arms or legs themselves are almost a reddish color sometimes. It grows up as a little clump and then spreads. When I pull it up the legs are sort of rooted down sometimes like runners. The thing is that this takes over high areas of my lawn, but when they die back in the winter, there don't seem to be bare spots from them because my lawn is pretty thick and like I said this weed is fairly low growing. Purslane maybe? I'll check for pictures tonight. Its so discouraging to work so hard all year and then by august to have the lawn just taken over in the front yard.

While leaf-curl CAN be a symptom of disease, it's also a physiological response to environmental stress -- too cool, too wet, too overcast, etc. As long as the curled leaves are still green and not wilted, I'd just wait and see what happens when your weather stabilizes. The continued yellowing on the lower leaves is just something that happens, and I've noticed it also seems to be a later response to the continuing environmental conditions that cause curled leaves. I don't think your plants are disease-troubled, though you should remove any leaves that have died to prevent disease entry or insect interest. One thing the "disease-pest" sites don't say is that tomato and other plants NEVER have perfect leaves throughout the entire season. They don't say that leaves which have contributed all they can to the plant's health and growth will turn yellow and die, and it can even happen pretty early in the season, depending on environmental conditions. They don't show pictures of plants with vigorous healthy top-growth but scraggly and discolored leaves on the bottom with the caption, "This is a healthy plant." So we may become alarmed and think our plants are diseased when they really aren't. I think we need to familiarize ourselves with at least one major plant disease (and pest damage) that occurs in our local area so we can recognize it if it appears on our tomato plants. It would be a REAL service to gardeners if Extension Services offered seminars to thoroughly educate people about tomato plant diseases and their control so we could be reasonably confident about what we're seeing.