Need more info. Fertilizing regimen, have you sprayed them with anything, soil(what's it consist of and amendments), etc. Kevin

forcing flowering is a legitimate way to make some plants flower although I've never heard of tomatoes as being light cycle dependent. think about it; most people plant, grow, and harvest their tomatoes in the summer. It could be you have a determinate variety of tomato. This simply means the plant has been genetically selected so it only produces a single bumper crop of fruit, then stops. indeterminate varieties will start flowering and continue to produce fruit until the plant dies. if it were temperature, your plant growth would be stunted. if it were nutrient, your plants would produce blooms, but not set fruit. Hope this helps. post some follow up. Here is a link that might be useful:

Actually, carolyn137 (a respected tomato authority) posts on the Tomato forum here and she has an interesting perspective on this - link below. Checked a few of my OP cherry toms in 1801s today and lots of nice white roots - not rootbound (yet) but definitely need to be potted up or transplanted ASAP. As Carolyn says, though, it seems to be a fibrous root system and as I found when potting up from 3606s to 4-ish size pots, if too dry or too wet the rootball can just fall apart and the roots are very fragile. People are too used to getting 2-3ft tall plants with fruit already on them, or paying a couple bucks for a 6-pack the size Dr. Carolyn describes, to make money selling plants that have never been potted up from the 6-packs. Maybe I should try pricking out right into 1801s next year? I do have a few 3606s with 3-4 plants left in them I haven't potted up (these were started in 5-cell Jiffy strips with 2-5 seedlings germinated in each cell, then pricked out and put in 6-packs a month later, so more than a month ago), was going to use those myself and plant this week, so I'll compare those against some that had been potted up one more time if I have any that don't sell, only thing is I don't have any BW left in 6-packs (unless I got them confused with PL GLaciers), and I have everything ELSE that I'm planting in the the 3606's The BWs went straight to 4.5" pots. And actually, those are the ones that don't seem to be growing as quickly (well, those and the Glaciers, could be a PL thing but the few Speckled Romans I have aren't as big as the things that got put in 1801s either). But I've already got 4 huge plants (2 of them BW, 2 CP which I hope make it since they're the only ones I have of that variety) from my cousin to compare against my smaller (organic, started later) BWs. Here is a link that might be useful: Scroll down for carolyn's comment on rootbound plants

donna If you are asking me - just lucky I guess? And temps are not very high, around 65*F - not sure if that helps. It was more difficult with watering, I had few more that I cut down as I read should be done for overwintering, they eventually didn't make it. I think I overwatered those, but maybe underwatered? No bugs of any kind thruout the winter. In last 2-3 days I saw some aphids that I sprayed off immediately (just water). I know they 'came' from other plants - I have brugmansias that are just leafing out (magnets for bugs in my case), and some bulbs emerging (Oxalis), aphids love the young shoots on those. I kept these 2 plants (in one large pot) since they both had lots of green fruit when brought in, and kept blooming too. On the other hand, I have more problem with drying the pods; some dry up but many just don't look right. Just sitting on paper towel, no dehydrator (maybe that is the answer?) I also wonder if they taste same as pods ripened under the sun - won't be able to tell since I can't eat them, lol. Too hot for me.