Thanks so much for your responses! I agree. My experience has taught me that thinking these details out before construction is much more practical. Here are some answers to your questions: I live in central NJ. Zone 6-7. I have about 4 feet of height under the deck to insulate it. I was thinking of using "Tiger Foam". IÂve used it in my home before. This stuff is effective, but expensive. I would use some and fill the rest of the area with packing Styrofoam that IÂve been collecting. The greenhouse will be built against my home. The bedroom window above it would be blocked if I made it higher. I guess IÂll be growing dwarf bananas. I donÂt see that I have much of choice, unless you can see a way to configure this that I canÂt see. There is an area to the left where we can go higher, but that would make it a weird shape, and more complicated construction. I guess it isnÂt worth it. I looked over the full size plans and you are right, they donÂt have the overall dimensions. No wonder my township returned the plans for being incomplete. The floor space is about 7 feet by 15 feet, minus the cut corners. HereÂs where I stand now. The deck is built. The rest of the deck is finished. The supports for the green house are all in and there is durarock on the floor, in the greenhouse area, that is ready for a tile floor. I would love to use a floor drain that is set into the floor and runs the length of the space, but that would entail cutting away the supports. The surface that this is will be built on is above the surface in front of it. May be the drain could run along the front, out side the floor supports. I think my architect could work this out. If not, then wherever we put the drain, the floor would have to slope in that direction. The way it is built now, it slops slightly away from the house. I guess we could change that just a little with the mud when we tile. I think the architect put a knee wall in the plans. How should that be built? Will I be running things through it in the future? The ridge of the roof runs the short way, so it isnÂt very long in relation to the space. If you put in a ridge vent, how do you keep the hot air from escaping in the winter? HereÂs my main concern. IÂm not building the green house because I donÂt have room for my plant inside my home. IÂm building it because my houseplants donÂt do well in my home in the winter. They get plagued by spiders and disease and dry out. I have been very successful with outdoor gardening. I realize that I will still have to care for my plants in the greenhouse but I hope it will be a lot better for them than it would be in the house. I would really like to find out what kind of heating wonÂt make it too dry in there.

Thank you very much for the ID's. The first one is near the spot where I saw the bad-looking P. mugo subsp. rotunda about which I asked an ID too. At first I though they were both the same species because they looked similar, but when I went too look closer then I could see the cones were definitely different. Funny part is that someone else suggested in that thread where I asked for an ID that it could be P. thunbergii. So I guess both trees are similar looking indeed. The second one I think comes from a hedge close-by that was (I think) never trimmed and therefore started producing cones. The third one is almost a miracle to me. Closest Abies koreana that I'm aware of is at least a few hundred meters away from where I found it. I'm very glad I dug it out too because A. koreana was also on my wanted list. :)

Duplicated post. Vine is Menispermum, common name moonseed. And Buddleja on the last picture.

Without seeing the full cactus and flowers it's hard to tell, but my guess is Epiphyllum oxypetalum aka Queen of the Night. I find Epiphyllums one of the easiest to propagate. Just bury in some mix and leave be. Keep warm and in bright filtered light. No need to water till roots form. If you have a bathroom with a window. I would keep this in there. The humidity may help to kick start with the roots. The bathroom should have a window so there's airflow and light. These guys can get fungus. Normally for other cactus I wouldn't suggest this, but these are different.I've found roots usually pop out fast within a couple weeks. If they take longer it's fine;). You can water when roots form. No harsh sun for these guys. Like I said just nice bright filtered light. Remember these are rainforest cactus. Make sure to keep the mix fast draining so no soggy soil. My Epi mix is about 30% pumice, 20% perlite, and the rest cactus mix. Maybe your friend can let you borrow some of their mix. What hardiness zone are you in:)? Really helps when giving advice.