Donna, I don't mind how you choose to spell it (it won't offend me even if you want to spell it with a "u", LOL), but it can be beneficial to spell it correctly, and it can help others in future reference situations if the spelling is correct. Almost all professional articles and good reliable information (like the info you are looking for now) uses the correct spelling, so it's much easier to find good info if you spell it correctly. And, while using the Latin name is a fine idea, it won't necessarily get you all the articles and info you may seek. Unfortunately, not everyone uses the scientific name. Of the 166,00 articles Google pulls up for "crape myrtle", many of them are from experts and academics in the field, arboreta and botanical gardens, etc. The vast majority of the 149,000 articles Google pulls up for "crepe myrtle" are from amateurs and are generally less reliable. Here are some ways you can confirm that spelling crape myrtle with an "a" is more correct: There is a "Crape Myrtle Society of America" but there is no such thing as a "Crepe Myrtle Society of America" "Crape myrtle is the overwhelming choice both in botanical sources and in other dictionary sources." - Michael Agnes, executive editor of Webster's New World Dictionary "The first reference to crape...came in 1685. Crepe first showed up in 1797." - Agnes "The common name of this plant is crape myrtle not crepe myrtle." - Floridata The National Arboretum, as well as almost all arboretums, uses "crape myrtle" not "crepe myrtle" ------------------------------------------------------ Here are more varieties you might check: Cheyenne (just a little larger than you asked for) Cherokee (just a little larger than you asked for) Chica Red (probably too pink, but often described as red) Tonto (somewhat towards pink, just a little larger than you asked for)

I'll say it the way a local mastergardener in my community said. Thre are many size crepe myrtles. If you want your crepe to be small then plant a small one or a medium size. Some people do not have the room or they rather have a small one. So plant the right size tree to accomodate what your needs are or your wants. The trunk of the crepe is beutiful,similar to the Guava tree. I made a walking stick out of one branch and it is beautiful. I have planted white,pink,hot pink,red,lavender in several places. They are very eazy to propogate and I just keep planting,LOL. My driveway is several hundreds feet long and I have been planting crepes all along the drive. Wing,just plant, feed, weed and voila! Remenber crepes look bare in winter but soon they'll give you beutiful blooms. You stated "After the freeze last week, it looks like I am going to have a lot of empty spaces so maybe I can get a "do over" and do it right this time." well you may not need to do one. May of the plants that looks like they are gone will probably come back with the return of warmer weather. You need to leave them alone and wait. No prooning nor fertilizing. What I continue to do is weeding the beds in anticipation of the return of spring. Also water the plants,do'nt let them get too dry. No prooning of crepe! Just my thoughts. Felix

I have a 10 year old Crepe Myrtle that was underplanted with Yupon Holly and Boxwood. When we bought the house we removed everything but the Crepe Myrtle. We replanted shrubs and perennials underneath. We hand dug the holes and did cut through some roots. This was over a year ago and the tree hasn't missed a beat. It grew vigorously last summer and is proving the same again this year. If you are careful I don't see why you wouldn't have the same success. Good Luck!! Rob in ATL

I am surprised that no comments have been made about oleander leaf scorch disease. This condition Is prevalent in So. California and has no cure or effective treatment. It is spread by the insect, glassy-winged sharpshooter. Plants will die 3 to 5 years after developing the disease. I live in Los Angeles and have had oleanders planted for 70 years; however, beginning a few years ago, they began developing oleander leaf scorch disease. The disease has gradually spread and has caused unsightly yellowing and wilting of the leaves and branches. I have replaced some of them with fichus bushes, which appear well. Eventually, all of the oleanders I have will die and need to be replaced, although I don't expect to live that long. My urgent advice is that if you live in So. CA, don't plant oleanders. I doubt that you will find nurseries in the area that continue to sell them anyway.