Dpol..you said, "other than some mites, the tree appears to be happy." Your ML looks great, but if you don't rid those mites, they'll kill your tree. I agree with NJ regarding scale. Scale are brown bumps that can be scraped off. They hide on upper and lower leaves and stems, in-between stems. The sticky residue is honeydew, secreted by scale, mealy or aphids. Honeydew attracts ants. Inspect your tree thoroughly to ID which insect might be on your ML. I make a home-made insectide to rid and kill mites. In a 16oz or so sprayer bottle, water, 2-4 drops dish soap, lemon ride or juice, garlic and hot pepper. Liquids can be replaced for garlic, citrus rind and hot pepper. There are different types of insecticides and oils. My favorite is Fish Emulsion, although many people like Neem Oil. Both are organic. One reason I prefer FE to Neem is, it's an organic fertilizer. When leaves are sprayed, it not only rids/kills scale, but works as a foliar feeding, too. Keep an eye on your Meyer's, see how it does. Good luck, Toni

Hi, Wendy, I don't know where you are in Oz, but I can relate to the dryness. I lived in the Coffs Harbour (mid north coast of NSW) area amongst others for some time. There, with it not raining significantly for over a year, I watered some young gumtrees every few days. They grew well. Incredibly so in some cases. Then a year later, a storm blew a couple of them over. Most of the roots were surface - my regular watering had encouraged that. So I would strongly recommend that you don't water your transplanted frangi "a little every day" but give the ground it's in a major soaking, then mulch (if you haven't already) and leave it for some time. Repeat only with major soakings, but not very often. The growth that you're getting now is of what was there ready to be put out. It needs to re-establish the fine roots, grow some more and "settle in"! Don't worry about it. Give it time and a lot of love! They can cope with a lot. Once I pulled up a cutting, left it sitting against a rock, and it still flowered! Oh that it were so easy here in Cornwall! :-)))

Annamaria- relax and enjoy yourself. The blacktip on leaves is normal and just pop them off. Soon new ones will grow fine. Yellow leaves are usually just done and being replaced with new ones and the white sticky stuff is just some latex leaking out. Remember, there is no place for mother hens in the plumeria world. They tend to over kill every thing and just cause problems. As long as leaves are growing everything is on the right path. Find your zen moment and leave the plant to grow. Do get an inexpensive water meter from a nursery so you know that your pot is still moist and water when it approches dry. The rest is just relax and wait. Bill

The first defoliation was most likely a function of the change in light between where it was sited at school and the lower light area where it is/was at home. It's very possible that the crispy leaf tips/margins are being caused by over-watering, a high level of salts in the soil (from fertilizer and dissolved solids in your tap water), or a combination of both. If your plant is wilting when you can still detect moisture in the soil, it's almost certain that root function is impaired, and the plant 'perking up' as evening approaches supports that thought. Again, this may be the result of an overly water-retentive soil and the lack of air in the root zone that comes with it, or a high level of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil, or both. Even the recurring insect infestation can be resultant of a suppressed metabolism due to poor root health. The fix when your plant wilts while the soil is still moist is less water, not more, and a flushing of the soil to remove excess salts that may be inhibiting water uptake. A high level of salts in the soil can do the same thing to plants that salt does to cured meats, like ham, bacon, summer sausage ..... When the level of salts in the soil is higher than the level of salts in plant or animal cells (meat), the salt actually pulls moisture from cells. When this condition is severe, a condition called plasmolysis can result as cells collapse and plasma is torn from cell walls. Commonly, we call it fertilizer burn. Al PS - it's much more important to shade the container than the foliage. A light colored cache pot filled with an absorbent material you can keep moist (between the 2 pots) or a pot-in-pot arrangement with the outside pot being white or a light color would probably go a long way toward keeping root temps out of the danger zone.