I plant that many in each container so that i get at least one per container. I decided to skip the small peat starter kit method. I went straight to the 3" starter pots. Then after a while (probably another week or so or when they start getting true leaves) I will decide which is the strongest looking in each container and I will cull the rest. I will end up with one per container and I will keep 20-30% more containers of plants than I plan to end up with in case a couple die along the way. I can always give away the the extras. I built in "unpreventable loss" all along the growing process. But I am not going to have much loss at the sprouting stage this year. Last year I planted 4 or 5 bhut seeds in a single 4" container and didn't have the heart to just keep one so when three popped up, I carefully dug out two and moved them to seperate containers. I would suggest doing this early like around the time they are getting their first true leaves. If you wait, the roots get too big and inter-twined. But this year, I wont be transferring any. I planted at least three containers of each variety I want to grow. Of those, I will probably wind up with just one or maybe two. The others I will give away if they make it. I basically planted three times the number of containers that I want to wind up with for each variety. For example, I want about 4 Sweet Banana pepper plants so I planted 12. Bruce

When the soil temperatures stay consistently low, plants will definitely slow their growth. Cool, damp soils will also impair the uptake of Calcium and Nitrogen, both of which can be responsible for healthy, green leaves. Plants that are grown in a specific type of light won't be able to tolerate markedly different amounts of light. In most cases, the leaves that matured under intense or low light will then drop, and new leaves will grow to accomodate the new light conditions. At transplanting time, "shock" refers mostly to the plant's reaction to root-damage. The less damage to the roots, the less "shock" in general. Also, if the plant is sheltered from intense sun and wind after transplant, the adjustment will be smoother. When the roots are disturbed, they go "offline" and there's a delay in moisture and nutrients delivered to the upper plant. Until the roots are back "online," the plant can't perform photosynthesis at full capacity. Sun and wind will likely dry/wilt the plant. Josh

OK , i know. a feeble attempt. compared to the others, this is anorexic, but... it has an excuse... It is planted in the ground, and temps hit 27F the other night. all my other peppers look pretty bad a few died, like they do every winter. This one is still flowering and growing fruit does anyone know what this is ? Serrano maybe ? ive been looking for a pepper i can over-winter by just leaving in the ground and adding a bit of mulch... as you can probably tell, im not a pro - pepper grower i grow more tropical fruits etc... i do like having my peppers every year though

I assumed so, the ones that I had seen before just seemed a bit more tapered or wasn't as pimpled I guess? Maybe I just have some ugly pods hah!