I had my soil tested last year - because I used soil from the local compost facility to get started - it had about 80% composted horse manure mixed in with regular compost as the other 20% (so they told me anyways). I learned that even though you can buy your own test kits, the one I got wasn't correct at all. The test kit showed a pH of 8 or higher. After the professional soil test, it came back showing 7.2 for the pH. As for phosphorous and potassium, the company showed that I was well over the requirements. Phosphorous was read at 310 lbs/acre with the soil mixture - and the optimal level is only 50 lbs/acre. Potassium was read at 800 lbs/acre and optimal was 300 lbs/acre. They didn't test nitrogen because they said it is easily lost with rain so it dramatically changes from one reading to the next. Here is a link that might be useful: BsnTech Gardening Blog

None of the do-it-yourself soil tests are recommended. Highly noted for poor results and inaccuracy that can easily lead you off in the wrong direction. Professional soil testing, available from your county extension service and/or any state university for a minimal fee is the standard recommendation. Dave

"Organic Matter" on the test has absolutely nothing to do with the presence or absence of life in the soil. It is a simple measurement of how much Carbon material from decaying/decayed grass/leaves/peatmoss/etc is there. It is derived by heating the soil to the point where any organic material burns off, and measuring the loss of weight from that. I read/offer recommendations on hundreds of soil tests a year. The best lab IMO is Logan Labs, with UMASS as a pretty good backup. Turnaround time is better at Logan, and getting someone to answer a question is way easier.

The "soil Test" kits sold in most garden centers are very unreliable and I have found, as have many other people, that the pH test often gives you the same pH reading with vinegar and baking soda as your garden soil. For good soil tests contact your local office of the University of Kentucky USDA Cooperative Extension Service and have them do it. Current cost in Michigan for a soil test done by Michigan State University School of Agriculture is $12.00 per sample and you get much more information ahbout your soil. While waiting for those results dig in with these simple soil tests to learn more about the soil (clay is a soil type and there are many different types of clay) you have: 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. Here is a link that might be useful: University of Kentucky CES