That's a very fair price. I paid $200 a tree here in Boca and that did not include taking out the root ball or grinding it down. However, let me address that topic - If you take out the root ball, you must fill the sides of the hole with good topsoil before you replant in the same hole. I would also mix some palm fertilizer in with the topsoil since the old palm's micro-roots will have depleted the soil. If you must pay extra to have the root ball removed or ground down, and don't wish to. Have them cut the palm as close to the ground as possible. The stump will decay on its own in a few years or you can pour chemicals on it to hasten the process. Then simply make new holes for the new palms or trees.

Njoasis, I may get the mule pal on ebay for 30 bucks. But in the case of a queen palm, if I used mulch burlap around the trunk with x-mas lights under it, would it be enough? I would also throw a garbage bag over the fronds if necesary. Is there anyway that maybe from the cold, it will stop growing at maybe 10 feet? The mule palm gets to 20 so out here it might stop at 10-15 feet. So thats easy to protect. I would protect it the same way as the queen palm except I wouldn't cover the fronds.

Ken, Very observant! The stains are indeed from fertilizer. I use 1/4 strength fertilizer once per week; not too much, just wet the medium off to the side of where the seedlings are emerging. Lights: Now I use one T5 running down the middle of the tray. Its about 2.5 inches off the tallest seedling. The ones along the far edges of the tray do bend inward a bit to get at the light. Originally I had one 60W incandescent bulb (albeit one designed as a grow light) but that wasn't doing the trick. Plus it was too high above the plants and they got a bit leggy. I wonder if I still need more light even now. Here in MD we have a lot of stink bugs and the latest issue is they get attracted to the grow lights and end up grabbing on to the seedlings, thus bending them down and damaging the cotyledons. If it isn't one thing its another. Anyway I already cut the red/brown leaved plant and got rid of it just in case. Other than the seedling the stink bug damaged, the rest all look healthy at the moment. Will

Hey KB, I have a Musa Basjoo banana, and an Ensete banana, along with 3 Cannas and 3 Elephant ears. The Musa Basjoo and the 3 elephant ears should be able to overwinter in the ground this winter, I'll just need to dig up my Cannas 3 of em, and move my ensete banana and in my basement this winter, I also have a Pineapple lily that will need moved indoors in winter. I have "Pink china" elephant ears, and they are said to be truly zone 6 hardy. I have them mulched well. I've been overwintering Calla lilies for about 3 years now in a raised bed up[ against the house) but they are in a bunch of shade so only get a couple flowers on them. I will likely try to make a raised bed in more sun next year, right up against the foundation, and dig out some of the Calla lily plants. In more sun they should do well. I'll be looking for the "Midwest banana farm". BTW, my Windmill palm is doing great in my native soil, I will be making my shelters soon, I already have all the materials to make it. I just am not sure how I'll make the wire enclosures a nice circle without it being not a perfect round enclosure. You know how wire on a roll wants to kink? I'm sure it will work out. I still need to plant my Needle palm in the ground. I should do that ASAP, so it gets settled in the ground before winter. It's been fine in a pot, unlike the Windmill palm that hated being in a pot. My first purchased Windmill palm died from me watering it too much in a pot. WE were having 90'sF so I was afraid it would dry out in it's pot so I watered it everyday. My first Windmill palm did have a rotten middle stem, so it did die in the pot. I'll be checking the "Midwest banana farm" now thanks KB.