Well its been 36 days since I over seed some areas and completely seed over other areas that I killed with road-up I'm concerned with a few area and would love some advice on what to do. Will these areas fill in? Do I need to put down some more fertilizer? The last picture concerns me the most (above) I have several areas where the Grass seed came up over 3-4 weeks ago grew one inch and stop----what up with that. Other areas it grew 3-4 inches already and its been cut once. Below is my soil report perhaps this will help. Please advise me on the best way to proceed thanks in advance

I'm a doofus. I missed the fact that the analysis was conducted on your 2/3 soil to 1/3 mushroom compost blend. Anyway, my comment about 0.0 ppm available nitrogen stands. I think it's a lab error. My comments about salinity also stand because we don't know the starting salinity of the compost or the soil. That being said, the final blend is 23% O.M. by dry weight, which is super high. If the mushroom compost was 1/3 of the final blend by volume, that would put you in the 7 to 8% organic range by dry weight if mixed with a mineral soil. And that's if the compost itself were high in organic material. (The analyses I looked at for the compost ranged from about 30 to 60% O.M. by dry weight). So, it would be a safe bet that your 4-way soil is probably around 15% O.M. by dry weight or a little higher. That means that it was probably about 50% to 60% organic material by volume and who the heck knows what that O.M. was. If it was raw wood chips, you would still have some available nitrogen in the analysis, but potentially not enough to balance carbon and it's feasible that you do indeed have a nitrogen draw issue. Or, if it has a heavy manure component, that could contribute to salts. (even a high quality greenwaste compost will often have a salinity level of 5 to 7 dS/m). Also consider that such a high amount of organic matter has the potential to hold too much water, especially if drainage isn't all that great at the bottom of the planters.

Looks great so far! That's actually much better than I would expect with your initial soil, so I'd say you're doing an excellent job. Some spot seeding will be necessary, but it always is. With fescue, in your area, you can dormant seed over the winter, or even a very early spring seeding. They'll develop fast enough to cause minimal problems during summer in your locale, which isn't exactly the hottest in the nation. Mosses are very weak, and don't tolerate drier conditions and sunlight very well. With luck, they'll go away by themselves next spring. Nor can they compete with the lawn, so they'll die if the mosses colonize there. If you mean that rock wall, they can be pressure-washed off , and a tiny bit of soap won't hurt to get rid of them. Most moss killers are iron sulfate, which will stain the wall, so you don't want to use those (they're great for in the lawn, however). Mosses are very susceptible to even small amounts of baking soda (the sodium is not a moss' friend). In small amounts, this won't harm the lawn, but I'd try to keep amounts low. A few tablespoons in a gallon of warm water, with soap, and use a scrub brush to scrub at the moss. It'll die in a week or so, and you can then scrub off the remainder with soapy water. Zinc or copper based moss killers shouldn't be used as they'll do strange things to the soil. While zinc is less of a problem, copper in excess will kill any plant that tries to grow in the soil and it doesn't wash out easily. So my general take on these is "avoid."

According to my calculations, you are short about 2 lb/k of P2O5 (phosphorus) and 4 lb/k of K2O (potassium). Probably the easiest way to get that 4 lb/k of potassium is to use a balanced NPK fertilizer, like 10-10-10 or 20-20-20. It would also give you 4 lb/k of nitrogen and 4 lb/k of phosphorus. You don't need that much phosphorus but it won't harm anything (except possibly the mycorrhizae). You want to avoid nitrogen in the summer. So if you went with the balanced fertilizer, you would be applying probably 3 applications, one a month for mid August, September, October. The 4th could be next year. Divide the NPK number into 100 to get the application rate (example, for 10-10-10, divide 10 into 100 to get 10 lb/k rate). An alternative is to find SOP, potassium sulfate, 0-0-50. You could apply that once a month, even in the summer, at 2 lb/k for four months. That would take care of the potassium. Two applications of starter fertilizer in the fall would take care of the phosphorus. Since you're planning to overseed, it would make sense to use this plan, as you could do an application of starter fertilizer at seeding and another a month later. Milorganite could substitute for the second application of starter in the fall. Use bag rate for starter or 25 lb/k of Milorganite at 5-4-0 to get 1 lb/k of phosphorus. As for nitrogen, the balanced fertilizer plan would give you 4 lb/k, which is more than you need for the year considering that you have already applied nitrogen this spring. If you use the alternative plan (which I think is better), you would get almost a lb/k with each application of starter fertilizer (1.25 with Milorganite at 25 lb/k) and then you could do a winterizer application of a quick release nitrogen in late fall after the grass has stopped growing but before the ground freezes. That would get you off to a good start next spring, when you could hold off on fertilizer until around Memorial Day. Your organic matter is low. It's good to leave clippings on the lawn when you mow. This fall mulch mow any leaves in your neighborhood that you can gather. If this is new construction, there may not be many trees but do what you can. The compost you're planning will help. Mulch mowing leaves is like making your own compost for the lawn --and you don't have to spread it! Water in your applications. Milorganite does not need to be watered in. Phosphorus tends to get tied with quickly with calcium in alkaline soil. It's there, just not available to the grass. Using organic forms of phosphorus, like Milorganite, enables a slow release of phosphorus. If you test next year and phosphorus is low, it's probably because of the alkaline soil. It's still there, just unavailable. Such is life for alkaline soil.