Well, I'm suspecting the heat at this point. I have three crookneck ladies that matured and bloomed yesterday, so hopefully they were pollinated. There were several males on other squash plants, so I hope it works out. If they fall off, I will figure it's lack of pollination. But it looks like it's stopped aborting buds, for now anyway. One of the pattypans has a female developing. Looks like it might bloom in a day or two. Crossing fingers! I have never had this happen before, so I was certainly puzzled. Hope it's a thing of the past. I have noticed ants on my squash plants--on the summer squash, and on my spaghetti squash (which is planted elsewhere). Could this be a contributing factor? Would soap spray kill ants? This post was edited by jemsister on Sat, Jul 19, 14 at 14:38

Okay I'm doing most of it right I'm using a tablespoon of epsom salts and spray it in the morning and one my trees is responding like my clay soil in my flowerpot must have been magnesium deficient

These are two year old seedlings--18" tall or so, grown one year as plugs, then one year planted out. The nursery that sold them to me, Van's Pines, is well established, has been in the business for many, many years, and has a very good reputation, so false claims seem out of the question. I also doubt they have been treated with anything--they are freshly dug and shipped immediately after. The color is, of course green, but not much different from Norway spruce trees of the same age, etc. as these blue spruce. One possibility, but a remote one, is that they were mixed up and got the wrong label. --Spruce

In Montana, most of my tomatoes (started by me) become fully ripened in August. However, tomatoes I started this year on 3-25 (and transplanted to 1-gallon pots at some point) ripened in July (early July through the first 3/4 of the month). NOTE: Those started on 3-25 (and transplanted into 5-GALLON pots) ripened earlier--in late June. Transplanting for both sets was the first week of June. (BTW, I have never seen any stress caused by transplanting, no matter the size of my plant/pot. My tomato plants really take off after they go in the ground.) Those started later, on 4-10, have NOT RIPENED as of August 1. ALL of my tomato plants are loaded with tomatoes, ripe or not. This data doesn't give us the same info as comparing the planting of 6" plants vs. 12" ones would, but it shows that starting early CAN produce earlier tomatoes, especially, IMO, if bigger pots are used, as needed. I did, btw, plant some tomatoes in 4" pots (that were very tall and should have been transplanted into 1-gallon pots) at the same time that I planted the ones in 1-gallon pots in the ground. Those made a good effort in catching up, in size at least, but they were just flowering when others had lots of fruit on the vines. Were any of my plants root bound, particularly the ones in 4" pots? Not that I recall. In fact, I need to learn how to produce more root and less growing top because my tomatoes get too tall before transplanting outside (I have them on a southern-facing, plastic-covered back porch WITH a roof, so they don't get full sun, by any means, which is the main reason they get so tall). I like starting plants earlier than recommended, especially since I moved to this colder climate. I believe, if the roots are given plenty of room, this method can produce healthy plants that produce earlier, just like with flowers that you want to bloom earlier. But beware--it's a lot of work to bring all those plants in big pots inside every time the temp looks like it's going to dip below 45 degrees F at night!