Nancy, the Bordeaux mix should only be used while the tree is still dormant - before bud break. It can be phytotoxic, which is why it's recommended to be used before the tree is in leaf. And you never want to spray during the flowering period when pollinators are present. Other than the Bordeaux mix, this is going to be a difficult problem to control just restricting yourself to organics......sad, but true:-( Cultural controls and good garden sanitation are critical and MUST be used together with any fungicides, organic or not - sprays alone will not do the trick. Part of the diffculty is that the fungal spores germinate and spread when the weather is warm, generally some time after bud break and one can't determine the degree of infection until the following year when the galls begin forming, so some sort of spray program is advised. Pruning out problem areas is most often advised but won't help a wit if the infection has progressed to major limbs or the trunk. You just need to remove the tree at that point. If I were in this situation, I might try using Neem oil for spraying any time after the trees emerge from dormancy and when the temperatures are close to 55F or above. If possible, spray when no threat of rain is present for at least 24 hours and don't spray when pollinators are present - Neem can harm them as well as any chemical. I'd repeat applications every 10 days to two weeks through shuck split (when the tepals fall off to expose any emerging fruit). Otherwise, there are very few fungicides that are registered for control of black knot (and most you wouldn't want to or can't use anyway) but if you use something registered for brown rot and follow a similar spray schedule, you should be OK.

Usually skip this subject since I've no experience with sprays besides some traditionals like sulfur & copper used many moons ago on fruit trees. Given my ignorance & the range of opinions, hesitant to even stick a toe in these waters, but (here we go) feel the need to share some thoughts. We all acknowledge we can't grow some roses as perennials in the open garden due to intrinsic climate & site unsuitability, available space & individual practical considerations at any given time. We intentionally eliminate some roses from consideration for not meeting our bloom & growth preferences. Of those we do select, some will self-eliminate despite our care or be rejected down the road for not living up to expectations or no longer appealing as our tastes change. The most critical of my criteria for choosing any rose is its reputation for health & vitality in conditions similar to my own. Gardening more than 50 years in typically humid & fungal prone locations zoomed this to the top of the list long ago. Heavy physical reactions to all the "-cides" except elemental since childhood prohibits their use, as does my philosophical worldview. So I garden the old-fashioned way, pre sophisticated chemical compounds, by necessity. From my point of view, the health potential of any plant is expressed by positive response to its environment - nature vs. nurture - and the availability of the elements & conditions it needs to thrive tilt the odds to favor this expression. We all know moving a shaded rose into more sunlight often "cures" its blackspot outbreak, athough fungal exposure hasn't changed, and that roses sometimes outgrow these outbreaks with maturity. Believe boosting the plant's immune system by helping nature provide those essentials allows it to function optimally on its own, so concentrate my efforts on these aspects. (Same principles as human health. Incidentally, fortify my immune function with the internal products of plants' immune systems - essential oils - borrowing from the plants as it were, the core of traditional botanical medicine.) When we first came to this garden 16 years ago, it had been installed & maintained by a college groundskeeper for 7 years on heavy-duty chemical prevention principles. Extensive shrubbery had been maintained with yearly chunky woodchips atop that of prior applications - 6" worth suffocating the soil without deteriorating though covered in sour-smelling fungus. Couldn't find a worm wherever I dug outside the woods & not a bug, good or bad, in evidence besides mosquitos, flies & chiggers. The few roses were dwindling away under this treatment, bare shadows of their potential. Reversed that trend with organic husbandry & the worms returned. Fed the beneficial microorganisms that fed the worms that till & aerate the soil & the soil web reestablished itself to create an environment in which suitable plants can thrive. For years now, the gardens have welcomed a wide variety of inhabitants that appear to have found an interwoven balance with which I'd be loath to meddle. Beneficials & birds keep the ruffians in check most seasons with an assist from the hose. One year the garden club girls (one fellow joined as I was leaving) spent an entire initial meeting exclaiming about decimation the Japanese beetles wrought over the Summer. Apparently no one believed my surprise & report that only a few spotted here that season not far from their gardens, or they might have wondered what could be different here... Many roses brought in over the years, some with blackspot or mildew from travel stress, so likely a mix of farflung varieties present. Most got over it, as have those which arrived this humid rainy season, including a spotted Buff Beauty bought locally. Fungals show up here & there in small bouts with minor fleeting consequence (knock on wood). Still not brave enough to intentionally choose roses not known for their good health, some of those with mixed reviews doing well. Those among the dear departed were dispatched by deer, storms, cold, neglect & seeming suicide. Shovel pruned 2 for RRD. In my book, really not a bad record for all the years & varieties attempted. Saved a lot of bucks & effort counted up over time, alternately spent on new plants & garden stuff. But then, an admittedly lazy gardener relying on simple methods to support health, the weather gods (as do we all) & beneficial energies... Longwinded way of saying it can be done - growing roses naturally in the humid fungus-ridden Southeast - by way of encouragement to those considering a change of method & solidarity with those already doing it, too. This post was edited by vasue on Sun, Jun 22, 14 at 21:37

Sounds like you have both the disease blackspot, and leaves damaged by a)chemical burn from using two different sprays in one week and/or b) drought damage and/or c) fertilizer burn on newly planted roots. Daily sprinklings isn't good for roses. You need to soak them long enough to get the whole root area wet, and then wait for that water to drain off or be used up before watering again. That usually means not every day. Every few days, depending on soil type and weather. You're right to water early in the day, but you're probably watering too short and too often. Roses need about an inch of rain or sprinklers every week. David Austen roses are very susceptible to blackspot. That's life. Blackspot can't be killed once it sets in, you have to spray regularly, before you see it, to prevent it. Only use one fungicide at a time. Two in one week is too much. More is not better. You can damage plants by misusing fungicides and insecticides. And make sure the plants are well watered the day before spraying, to avoid burning them with the chemicals. I also don't spray when the daytime temp is going to go over 85 degrees as plants can burn in hot temps. Leave the rose alone for now. It needs all its leaves on it to prepare for winter, even if they're damaged. The rose will drop them itself if it's necessary. No fertilizer this late in the game, and it's best not to fertilize newly planted plants anyway. Start anew in spring, with fertilizer and preventative fungicides.

...could just be a bit of fertilizer burn expressing itself at the tip of the leaf. When that occurs in my plants it typically does not spread...just makes the leaf ugly.