My Maigold has very little rebloom, altho I've never given it any help, either - - I don't fertilize it or deadhead. Most of my shots are dated in April. A couple of the HMF references (including the grand old man himself, Graham Stuart Thomas) mention scattered bloom later in the season. If it is Maigold, it's easy to ID by the scent. It has plenty of that linseed oil scent. Some people love the notes that scent gives to roses, but I can't seem to smell anything past the linseed oil. Interesting that a number of the HMF references describe it as good scent. I'd say it's distinctive. Good...not so much. The foliage is shiny and very healthy. And the canes are wickedly thorny. My plant is already in bloom, and it will bloom into June. Oh, I just found one of my photos dated late August. So I guess it does have scattered rebloom, onsie twosies. October, tho...I just don't know. The bloom color is very subtle and beautiful, I think, with a reddish wash over deep yellow, great veins of color, fading clear yellow. The effect is of apricot from a distance.

Thanks again, Beachplant and pcput. Printmaster - I'm meeting John Tarvin Sunday, looking forward to a tour of his yard. Bud Guillot (Guillot's Sunset, etc.) is his neighbor not too far away. Plumeria folk: Question about etiquette - would it be rude to show up at Bud's door with a chainsaw and a pickup and ask if it's okay to take "a few cuttings" - or might that seem excessive? Just asking. moonie 57 - I'm a pretty bad enabler myself, so I know a bad example when I see it! It still works (me succumbing to the bad example), but I see it!! Thank you, too, Laura and no-Clue and jperilloux and Big Wave Dave and Bill. Jen, I may open a thread on plumeria mysteries, see if I can get help in identifying some of the tough ones. Taking pics now! Thanks for all the tips. I plan on taking pics of my yard this weekend and putting them up very soon. Don't expect too much - I've lived here less than 2 years and it's all a work in progress. But I have some interesting trees and ideas I'd love to share with you guys. So pics are coming, I promise. Bill - thanks for the info on Wildfire. I was going to put her in the ground (once I found one). Now I'll keep it in a pot in the ground, and move it when necessary. I'm starting to put together my winter plan. My previous winter plan was very light, as I didn't know we were having two extremely mild winters (I've only experience two). This year I'm getting the blankets and Christmas lights, and moving into the sunroom, and maybe building a greenhouse - it's serious. Not that I expect it to get too cold - but I rather be prepared. I almost break down when I accidentally damage an inflo - imagine what would happen if I lost a whole plant! There would be a funeral and procession. One bit of bad news: I have a spectacular 4 foot Jeannie Moragne that's been blooming like crazy. I also have a 6.5' foot one that I've been waiting to bloom. I like the Jeannie so much that I put the big one right in the middle of the yards as a centerpiece, between two Cuban Royal Palms. Today it finally opened!... Not a Jeannie. I kind of feel like Charlton Heston at the end of Planet of the Apes. So I may be looking for a big Jeannie, too. Thanks to Bill and his info, though, I may only need a small Wildfire to keep in a pot, instead of the large one I initially intended to get. I'll post a pic of my Jeannie imposter in a mysteries thread. It's rounder and more of a deep rose color and very beautiful.... wait, I can't fall in love again. Not so soon! I need a large Jeanne Moragne! And Wildfire - quick! Thanks all for making me feel welcome. Pics coming soon.

Hi Blessedbe. I used to live in an incredible Streamlined Deco apartment building built in 1940, with terrazzo floors, glass block walls & steel casement windows with metal Venetian blinds 12 feet wide--the widest made--and although it's been 25 years since I lived there, I still love that sleek look. OK, so you don't mention whether your whole place is, like mine was, actually of the period, or if it's newer construction, and you also don't say whether you're going for an authentic period look--as though your bath might have been decorated during the era & somehow survived intact till now, or whether you're making a room that's about the era & the style. They're two totally different things. Either way, forget Maxfield Parrish & Alphonse Mucha. Both were wonderful artists, but they're both way earlier, and their lush colors & lavishly ornamental style have nothing to do with the slick, high-contrast style typical of late Art Deco that you're after. In fact, when Bette Davis' elegant movie characters were swooning about in sleek penthouses & nightclubs, both Mucha's & Parrish's artwork would have been considered hopelessly old-fashioned, and all that adding them into the mix would do is muddy the concept. Paris & San Francisco, on the other hand, were both sophisticated & up-to-date, with plenty of shops & theatres & apartments & hotels executed in just the glamourous style you're after. In fact, Paris' exhibition in 1937 & San Francsco's in 1939 represent the pinnacle of the style's development just before the dark days of WWII put a sudden end to the party. But watch out if you're thinking about using photos: there are a lot of classic photos of both cities that, like the Mucha & Parrish posters, would only confuse your decor. The Eiffel Tower is too old by half a century to say anything about the Art Deco era, and while the Golden Gate bridge is an icon of 1930s design, neither image would have been used to decorate a bathroom of the period. Nor would a picture of Bette Davis, talented though she was. No, those things--movie star portraits, photos of landmarks of the period, vintage magazine ads for, say, Evening in Paris perfume or Packard automobiles, covers from Fortune magazine or Vogue, colorful fruit crate labels, vintage travel posters featuring the Pan-American Clipper or the 2oth Century Limited--while perfect for a room that's ABOUT the period/style, are all wrong for a bathroom that's meant to look as though it's FROM the same period. OK, maybe a struggling actress or a shopgirl living on the cheap in an efficiency apartment might hang a picture of Bette Davis in her tiny bathroom, but only becasue she could tear it out of a magazine for free and hang it in a ten-cnt frame from Woolworth's. But a wall full of ads & commerical art wasn't likely to appeal to most people, even if they wanted to hang artwork in their baths, which generally, they didn't. For the upper classes--the target audience, after all, for the styles that we call (thanks to Kelly Werstler & Bevis Hiller) Hollywood Regency & Art Deco--the whole point of 1930s baths was Glamour Without Fussiness. That's why they went for rich or striking new materials on the walls--marble, Vitrolite, colored or engraved mirror--and often, strong color in the fixtures: by making beauty inherent in the materials themselves, they could eliminate superfluous ornamental touches. You wouldn't have found pretty crocheted doilies or dainty flower arrangements or frilly curtains in any high-style bathroom of the period. As Belle Watling said in 1939, "It wouldn't be fittin'." So, if you want a true period look but you still want a bit of decoration, you might try adding a stenciled (or taped) border (a zigzag, or a Greek key, or a very-authentic angel-fish-&-bubbles motif in black & one other color--there are lots of possibilities) just above the tiles or just below the ceiling. Stenciled & painted designs are an authentic look, because a border is actually part of the room rather than something in the room. And, on the other hand, if you're doing a room that's not intended in any way to be authentic but one that's, rahter, ABOUT the period, you have a lot more possiblities beyond the obvious cliches. If it's photos you want, look at the striking black-&-white images that Hedrich-Blesing took for the 1933 World's Fair here in Chicago. Their lustrous shot of the Chrysler building at night has gotta be the most drop-dead glamorous photo of the whole century. I think you can buy a reproduction from the Library of Congress. Or check out Ewdard Weston's work, if you don't know it. Once you've seen his voluptuous, suggestive photgraphs of produce, you'll never look at a green pepper the same way again. For Art Deco drawings, look up Hugh Ferris' work. His renderings of Hoover Dam are awesome. For posters, look at the work of A.M. Cassandre, or Joseph Binder, whose graphic work between the wars is some of the most powerful ever. And since this approach is not really authentic for the period, anyway, there's one more image that would fit in just fine with the style & also with the black-&-white scheme you've already got going on: Richard Estes' iconic painting "Drugs" from the Art Institute of Chicago. It's a 196Os piece, but the subject is a classsic late-1930s facade in curved black Vitrolite & bent glass, and I bet the AIC has it in reproduction. I hope this suggests the two different approaches you can take as you finish your room. Be sure to post some pics when you get your room the way you want. Regards, Magnaverde.

Hi Bea!! Thanks for the pictures and extra information!!! It certainly helps to understand what could be happening with your cutting. i did read again that your cutting is about 10 inches long and you say that the soft part is in the middle and is about four inches. Its always a good idea to let it callus before you pot up to root, some may pot up immediately.. But IMO it's best to dip and seal as soon as it's cut to prevent it from losing it latex. If you choose to not dip, I would turn it upside down to let the latex stay inside the cutting and from draining before it seals itself from its own latex. Let it sit for a week to ten days and then pot up to root. Sometimes newer growth ( green cuttings) are a little more fragile in trying to root verses the older hardened woody cuttings. That doesn't mean that it can't be rooted. It's true that this isnt the best time of the year to root, but if you use a bottom heat source like a seedling heat mat, it will give it a better chance to root. Even in the best growing period ( early to mid summer) it can take 6-8 weeks to see roots form, so trying to root now with the cooler nights can take longer. Your friend was very kind to give you this cutting and I'm sure you would love to see it root and have a beautiful tree, so let's try and save the cutting and get you started!!! Others have their opinions and ways to root. We could hear all sorts of ways of rooting and being down in Florida will help!!! if you can keep the cutting warm and most of all having bottom heat that will be a great way to start. Growers such as Jim Little in Hawaii likes to root in 100 percent perlite and my friend Bud Guillot roots cuttings ( after they callus) and will stick them in the ground during the peak growing season in California. He also uses containers to root. You mentioned your friend who has a nursery told you to plant it in sand? Did you put this cutting in a container filled with sand? If it was my cutting, here is what I would do.. i would take a pin ( sewing pin) and gently prick the soft area and see if it has white latex that will ooze from the slight prick into the stem. If you do see white latex then I would proceed with trying to root the cutting in a better fast draining mix. I would also advise you to even root it in a clear cup (I like clear solo cups or a medium size cup from Starbucks) that way you can see rooting activity with out poking or pulling on the cutting when you get curious if the rooting process is working. Makes sure you cut drainage holes in the bottom of the cup so it can drain properly when you do give it moisture. Keeping the mix on the dry side is always best and giving it a little moisture is alright . I will give my initial cutting a good watering and then I will let it dry out and wait until you see some activity. It is alright to mist the soil to give a little moisture during the hot months since it will need it. But only a little . It does not like to be in a wet mix and if it is, it will likely lead to root rot . Keeping the cutting in direct sunlight isn't necessary because you really just need bottom heat. Sometimes if you put it in direct sunlight while rooting , you will have issues with sunburn on the cutting. Once it produces leaves, then I would start to acclimate it to direct sunlight. This can take 8 weeks or longer this time of the year to see a cutting root. I have cuttings rooting throughout the summer and I still have some of them rooting in my rooting bin. ( only a few now..) They are on a heat mat in my greenhouse that isn't heated ... I don't have the heater on at this point in time. I will bring them inside once it gets cooler and place them on heat mats since the greenhouse will be used to store the dormant trees. ( with just a little heat using a automatic thermostat ) We do advise once it is potted up to start the rooting process to leave it alone and give it time, however.. If it is a wet and sitting in a wet mix or even sand, I would take it out check out the bottom of the callus. See if it is free of fungus and free from any signs of rot. If the pin prick test shows brown ooze or even no signs of any white latex, it could be a sign of stem rot. You could always wait to see it it does harden off if you decide to repot the cutting and put it on a heat mat. The odds of it rooting if it has mid stem rot is really. Unlikely. It really is a small cutting to cut, but if you see that you dont have any option to save this beauty, you could start cutting to eliminate the soft area and cut until you find clean white tissue. Always make sure to clean your cutting tool in between cuts with isopropyl alcohol to keep the cutting tool clean to prevent further exposure of any fungus, bacteria etc. You want to try and keep the new end clean from the rotten area from where you are separating it on the stem. i like to use several mediums to root my cutting in my clear cups. I like to use a mixture of Firbark, Perlite and a peat mix. Or you can use a Gritty mix which works well too. Or you can use perlite like Jim Little... Just make sure it not a heavy mix that will hold to much moisture. Good luck with your cutting., if it doesn't work out, don't be disappointed because we all have had cuttings that didn't make it. When I first started I did have a few that died on me and everyone will have the same trials until you get a good feel as to how to keep the cuttings happy ( bottom heat etc) the biggest mistake that most people make is leaving them outside with the rain when trying to root and also peeking at the cuttings by poking and lifting them out of the container to check for root growth. Living in Florida gives you a great advantage because you have many gardeners who grow Plumeria and we all like to share cuttings. I live in Virginia and we can't find any trees around here. So I relied on friends from around the U.S. As well as nurseries in Florida, California, Hawaii and Thailand. It would seem that nurseries north of the Florida border don't stock them like the other places I listed. See what you can do and if it doesn't work, I'm sure we can find more cuttings for you to start this spring. I'll be more than happy to send you a few little beauties if you are interested. Remember when starting any new cutting that is cut from a tree, remove the leaves from the cutting . Always leave new leaves that form from the rooting process. i hope this has helped.. Here are a few pictures of my cuttings in the rooting bin and another to show you how I keep the stem secured in the clear cup so it stays stationary. The leaves you see in the picture are new leaves forming from the rooting process. The cuttings were clean and free of all leaves . You want to secure them so there isn' t any movement to prevent any roots from breaking when the rooting process starts. ;-). I use pieces of styrofoam that I cut into cube pieces. You can find thes 8x8 pieces at Michael's Arts and Craft stores. I like the soft pieces and not the hard styrofoam. Just stick them inside of the cups or container and make sure they are secure!! Good Luck, Bea!!! Laura Here is my Kapalua cutting that took 3-4 months to root. It was one of the hardest cuttings I have ever rooted. I took this cutting from my mother tree that is about 8 feet tall. I was thrilled to finally get this one to take. ( tried two other times with this variety and lost them This variety is known to be a difficult rooter ) So it happens.. Always try and start with a known easy rooter like Miami Rose, Celadine. They can easily be found in Florida!! Have fun!! Remember.. No worries if this one fails.. It has happened to us all!!! Al.. Mahalo for the kind comments.. ;-) Laura