Praying mantids wouldn't have much interest in the aphids, sorry to say. They like more active prey. Anything that flies, jumps, and scurries will trigger the mantids attack response. Sluggish ol' aphids, not so much. The most commonly employed controls for aphids are certainly the most harmless and 'organic'. Most of us use a strong spray of water to dislodge the insects. Others will simply use their fingers to squish them. Or BOTH! This will need to be done on a regular basis in order to keep these rapidly reproducing insects under control. Insecticidal soap applications are considered organic, though not harmless. You'll need to direct your sprays to the aphids and not drench the entire garden. The good part of insecticidal soap is that once dry, it cannot harm or discourage beneficial insects. By the way, there are many other benefical and parasitic creatures that will work with you to control aphids. The list would include teensy parasitic wasps, ladybugs, lacewing larvae, predatory midges, longlegged flies, and lots of others.

Aphids didn't do that. A water shortage, even tho brief, could.

Those (eggs) look like psyllid nymphs to me, the actual eggs are very tiny and are often found hanging on the edge of leaves in a row, the "aphids" are the adult psyllid flies. I had nymphs on one leaf but they were on the underside of the leaf. Look at the thread that's titled "HELP! tomato problem solver" and then select the one that is from UC Davis for good info about this tough insect to battle. Also you could google pictures search for "Psyllid tomato" etc. Also use search feature on this website for psyllid, there are a few of us that have battled them. Those buggers are pretty nasty, the nymphs that are attached to the leaves inject toxins to your plant. Mine was attacked pretty young, I ripped off the leaf when I saw it and for at about a month my plant was pretty severely stunted. Has fruit all over it but I have pulled off the first four largest ones because they had brown spots more like the last pic than your #5 pic. I'm thinking my plant is finally recovered as is catching up to my other plants in size and becoming bushy, though time will tell if it will be strong enough/mature enough to produce good fruit. Anyway, looks like you have a few things going on here, your plants may be pretty stressed due to the toxin, leaving them more susceptible to the other blights and diseases right now. I would also take advice from others as I'm really a new gardener but I'll give you my two cents anyway. Also look at the problem solver for the TAMU problem solver and just look through all those pics and decide what you've got. For what it's worth, I would pull off all leaves with the scaly buggers on them. Check undersides of leaves carefully as well, though one gardener here has tried scrubbing the scales off instead of pruning, though I'm afraid scrubbing or scraping may damage leaves too so I would just prune as long as you don't have to defoliate your plant entirely. Also prune off the most diseased leaves and branches, then cull the bad fruit (it will probably get worse, be inedible and is sucking energy that your plant needs to use to recover). BTW, #5 looks like plain old BER to me but plant may just be stressed and immature to avoid it. Then spray entire plant and under leaves with insecticidal soap (search for insecticidal soap on this site for tips), it most likely won't get the nymphs off the leaves, that's why it's best to prune or manually remove the nymphs. The soap will get rid of adults and probably the eggs that are so hard to see. I think that the soap has to be washed off within a few hours, so do that. Then I would use Daconil spay (Ortho Garden Control, Chlorothalonil) per bottle instructions, don't wash off and don't spray your leaves for 4 or 5 days ....also, be careful as spray can burn so apply early evening may be best. If you are organic, you can also try Serenade...that's actually what I used but it looks like you have a tougher situation than what I had. Daconil is actually widely considered to be about the safest spray of this type so I have bought some myself to combat further issues. I would also buy some more mulch to get a really thick layer going and let them rest for a few days, keeping them moist of course, don't get the foliage wet with water at all if you can help it. After 4 or 5 days rest I'd feed them. I've been using a high-end commercial fertilizer from a local nursery but many here recommend the seaweed and fish fertilizer combo and I will probably move to that next year myself. You can mix those two (again search for what other people have discussed on this fertilizers here) and do both a foliar feed and a feed with their water. I wouldn't use Miracle Grow or Jobe's, just might be too risky and burn them or something. You shouldn't need to refertilze for a while, two week intervals maybe? I do 10 day intervals with my commerical stuff. Not sure what your soil and ammendments were like but I wouldn't fertilize much differently than you would ordinarily after you get the first round post-Daconil done. Anyway, I don't think from my limited experience that you have a bacterial problem so that's good news. I also don't think you've got the curly virus so that's also good. I think that the curling is just the stress, if you start to notice more problems with more severe curling you may indeed have it but I doubt it living where you do. I do think your plants will recover, they don't look that bad. You may need to make a $25-$30 investment to get the soap, daconil/serenade, mulch, fish, and seaweed ferts but those bottles should last you at least through next year too since you only do a few plants. (don't know shelf life of organic ferts though) I buy the full-strength and dilute per instructions, much better value. Good luck and hopefully others will have suggestions. This is just mine from what I've done and would certainly repeat if I go to battle with the nymphs again.

I like nausturtiums because they are a trap crop and the deer won't touch them. But unlike some trap crops, like radishes for flea beetles, aphids on nausturtiums act as a reliable food source for predatory insects like ladybugs, which then also attack the aphids on the tomatoes, keeping their numbers from exploding. I don't believe that any companion plant will drive off pests from near by plants, it just doesn't make sense that a 2 ft tall companion plant at the base of 6 ft tall tomato plant will scare off a nearly microscopic bug, nature just doesn't work that way for things trying to scratch out a living. If you had tall marigolds enveloping short lettuce it might be a different story. Queen Anne's Lace (Wild carrot) is a wonderful companion plant in that it doesn't have to be next to the target plants, just in the area (and once established it grows striongly and self seeds the second year and after). It grows as soon as snow starts to melt and blooms early in the season to draw in ladybugs and hoverflies while the tomato plants are still little. Nausturtiums take forever to grow. but are large enough by the time the QAL dies back. As I said, my hungry deer won't touch either of them.