the soild hasn't been analyzed.

beds are 4x8, and 8 inches high.

I am not sure I understand what is meant by the phrase 'compost dirt' because compost is compost (decomposed matter that was once living matter) and dirt is generally just dirt...decomposed minerals. Do you mean it is a blend of compost and soil? Compost and sand? Is that 'compost dirt' what is already there in the beds before you start amending? If so, I bet it has much more sand in it than compost.

It doesn't really what you add as long as you add healthy, disease-free, fully-composted material. However, the more different kinds of amendments you add, the better for the soil because it contributes more biodiversity.

Compost---A high-quality compost is always the best choice. High-quality compost will add not only organic matter but it will be biologically active. You can add homemade compost or commercial compost, sold either in bulk or in bags. Compost generally contains humus, humic acid, microorganisms, nutrients, enzymes, and vitamins.

Composted Manure---Cow manure is the one you see in stores most often, but some nurseries sell composted chicken manure or other manures. Be careful when buying manures. It is common with some supplier to add lots of filler to the composted manure products. (By law, I believe packaged manure only has to contain 10% composted manure.) I only purchase brands that are 100% composted manure.

Chopped/shredded autumn leaves---These are wonderful for garden soil but usually available only during the trees' dormant season. (Today, though, I have seen drought-induced leaf drop on some trees in non-irrigated areas and if you see the same thing there, you can gather and shred those leaves.) Otherwise, these are great to gather, shred or chop, bag and use in fall. I add some to the beds every fall and save others to use as mulch in the spring.

Bagged materials sold for soil improvement. You'll find many kinds of these, including:

--Peat moss, which is not considered sustainable and which is hauled great distances, and which is inferior to compost which is alive. Peat moss is dead, biologically speaking.

--Greensand. This is a naturally deposited, undersea iron potassium sulfate, so it is a great natural source of potash.

--Composted cotton burrs. I haven't used these is a few years, but the ones from Back To Earth were good quality when I used them. May or may not be organic. Always read the bag to see. If it is not labeled 'organic', you can assume it is not. You also may see cottonseed meal which is a good organic source of nitrogen. Both cotton burrs and cottonseed meal may have an odor and it related to something used when the cotton is growing.

--Soil conditioners. These are sold under different names. The ones I see here usually are a blend of humus and pine bark fines.

---Colloidal Phosphate/Soft Rock Phosphate. This is an economic and natural form of phosphorus and calcium. It is not water-soluable to it breaks down very slowly and does not leach out of soils quickly like synthetic phosphorus fertilizers do.

---Alfalfa meal. Added to soil in small amounts. It is high in minerals, sugars, starches, proteins, fibers and 16 amino acids.

---Bat guano. Think of this as a fertilizer. It contains nitrogen and lots of trace elements. You'd add it to beds in small amounts once or twice a growing season.

---Blood meal. A natural source of nitrogen and phosphorus. Don't add too much or you'll have excessive leafy growth at the expense of roots and fruits.

---Bone meal. Excellent, slow-release and natural source of phosphorus and calcium.

If all you can add is compost or manure, that's fine, but the other amendments increase soil fertility. If you add them, you won't have to fertilize your beds as often because the plants will be able to get what they need from the soil. That's one of the basics of organic gardening...feed the soil and let the soil feed the plants.

When I am building new raised beds, I try to add 6 to 8" of organic matter to the existing soil, adding 1 or 2" at a time and rototilling it into the soil. By the time you've tilled the ground in your bed and added 6" or 8" of soil amendments, you have a nice raised bed substantially above the grade level you started with.

After the soil is amended and the plants are planted, don't forget to mulch! Your mulch will continually feed the soil as it breaks down too.

Dawn

I have working on my garden for four years, pushing it very hard with organic matter. My soil is very tight heavy clay. My goal was to get to the point to have a no till garden. I am expecting that to happen in the main garden next year.

I had a soil test made this year and found I was way over on about everything. If I had made a soil test before I started I might have done some things a little differently.

I think a soil test and good quality compost is always the best place to start. Also, mulching in this part of the country is almost a must.

Larry