You can do that but be very careful where you put tender seedlings. They need a period of shaded light to get used to the UV light. You'll have to bring them in at night because the cold temperatures at night will keep them from growing. Do not leave a humidity cover on them because they will fry. You can make a light setup very cheaply. All you need is a 4 foot shop light with fins so the light is directed down and T8 daylight fluorescent tubes and a table or shelf to hold it. I have 3 of them and the whole thing cost me a little over $100.1 fluorescent light fixture costs as much in electricity as 1 incandescent light bulb to run. It would save a lot of carrying plants in and out

Wally, I'm not sure why Byron discards his first cup of tea, but I just steep a bag in a large mug until it's cool and fairly strong. Then I keep it in a jar in the fridge and add a little of it(1/4 cup?)to a large spray bottle of water and use that to water my seedlings. The only damp off I've had is when I switched to a watering can and splooshed way too much water into a few cells and I hadn't added the tea. So I'm guessing...1/4 cup of tea to a quart of water? I have just been winging it, but it seems to have worked. I hope you get more feedback on this.

The leaves of chamomile are not acceptable for tea - very bitter, and for some reason I believe I saw somewhere that it has some toxic qualities. German chamomile is an annual, and it grows well from seed. Meaning, considering all those flowers that don't get harvested, it reseeds itself with no problems at all. I use my little herb scissors to harvest chamomile, snipping off the flowers when at their peak. I like them best included in tea fresh, but I also dry some for use later.

I think you maybe reading too much into the linked article. They are offering you general guidelines, not any absolutes. So just to be clear I am not saying it isn't in soil, it is. It is all soil. I am saying that it isn't ONLY in the soil. It is also in the air and on surfaces all around you. Soil-less potting mix starts out at the factory as sterile. (Bales of peat do not.) During transport, storage, and once you open the bag it is no longer sterile. The extension offices are quite right in saying start out with a sterile soil-less mix. That improves your odds. But they are not saying that you still can't get damp-off even when you do. That is an important distinction. What I am trying to tell you is the fungus spores, just like all other fungus is in the air all around us. The only way you could prevent the fungus from coming in contact with your plants is by doing the whole process in a vacuum. You can't so there is no need to dump out mixes because the new you get will quickly also be contaminated. But it isn't the inactive floating-around fungus spores in the soil or in the air or on the container that do the damage. They just lie there, dormant, unless they are given the conditions they need to go active, to grow and replicate and produce the toxins that do the damage. Deny any fungus spore acidic pH, humidity, excess moisture, and expose it to good air circulation and it remains dormant and eventually dies. <Knowing that my plants are going to start off under the lights, would you recommend switching back to my smaller 72-count cells, or should my 50-counts work equally well as long as I go more by the weight and not soil appearance to judge dryness?> I don't think it makes any difference. We start all our plants in the greenhouses in bulk flats and then transplant to 6 packs or other larger containers depending on planned sale form. Many times I have started 20-30 tomato seeds in each cell of a 4 pack when I'm only germinating a small number of the variety. That way I can get 100-200 plants going in a small space. But as long as I use a soil-less potting mix that is pH balanced, keep good air circulation going, and limit the water there are no problems. Dave