do not cut it back, that will kill it for sure. Sounds like you have done alot for it already. It's probably best to let it be and see if it can recover now on its own since your weather is getting warmer. If the warm weather can't help it recover, it may be a goner.

Cutting off dead fronds arent bad at all for your palm, and actually should be done to keep the plant focused on using its energy on green leaves instead of yellow or brown ones. It also gives the palms some more sunlight, but if it was winter, it would be best to keep the dead leaves on because it does help insulate the palm at least a little, and usually during a cold spell the lower fronds are the first to go anyway. Good luck!

What wetsuiter said. Even if some fronds may not look the best but are still mostly green, they are probably still doing their jobs and providing the plant with much needed energy from photosynthesis. Leaves, while they are pretty/ nice to look at, are an extremely important organ for any tree/ plant. Leaves also perform sevreal important functions on plants such as respiration and transpiration. If you ever get the chance to study plants / trees and all of their organs that help to make them function you will be amazed at the complexity. The palm you got from walmart, ericthehurdler got it right. Parlour Palm. The scientific name or botanic name is Chamaedorea Elegans. Those are a fantastic family of palms. Chamaedorea Elegans are in fact a SOLITARY palm. The reason they come how you got them, with many plants all clumped together is because growers often just germinate 10-20 or so seeds in a pot, and poof, you have a 'plant'. But, what you in fact have in that pot, is probably 10-20 small individual palms. It is up to you if you wish to separate them out. Often in the past what I have done is separated out the 1-3 largest ones and left the others to grow more. Also another thing that can, and does happen is that some of them may eventually die off. Personally, I find a single one of these palms in a pot by itself more appealing, espeically when they get older. I have a few, and one of them I got from a pot similar to yours. It was the largest, but still a young plant with no trunk. It now has about 7 to 10 leaves, has shed about 6 leaves, and has about 4 inches of clear trunk on it and is taking on the classic palm tree appearance. Mine is about 4 years old now, (the amount of time I have had it) but it is probably more like 6 years old in total. They grow fairly SLOW. They are probably one of, if not THE easiest palms to take care of. Virtually bullet proof. Very hard to over / underwater them, though I would err on the side of underwatering them because they can handle that easily, and also do not need tons of light. You can successfully grow one of these in a north facing window that gets hardly any direct sun with no problem. In fact, since they are an understory palm that grows only several feet or so high on the forest floor, they prefer mainly indirect or very filtered light, and NOT direct sunlight. Direct sunlight can burn the leaves. I have had one burn on me with just one day's exposure to full sun. Also, this palm, and all the other palms in its genus (Chamaedorea) are mainly jungle palms, so many prefer the lower light conditions, somewhat elevated humidity, and fairly warm temps. Definitely NOT cold hardy. That said, there are some that can HANDLE some abuse, and the palm that you have gotten is one of those palms. Anyway Best of luck with both of your palms!

I'm afraid it's a bit more complicated than giving an absolute temperature palmguy. Normally they are listed as SURVIVAL hardy to zone 7 (min./average temperature 0.0 F). Note, this does NOT mean that the temp reaches 0 F every winter, only that it may occur. Note also that some leaf damage will occur at much higher temps. But this depends on a lot of other factors--(sun & wind exposure, soil conditions, nearby buildings, general health, size and length of time in the ground, soil moisture (drier is better), icing, the genetics of your particular plant, and also the DURATION OF COLD (do frigid periods last for months/weeks/days/hours??)--It matters. In my particular site, we had a minimum last winter of 14.0 F, had a VERY WET, windy, and snowy winter, but saw virtually no damage in the spring. I saw more damage two winters ago when the plant was a year less established and the minimum got to 4.0 F., but it did grow out of the damage fairly quickly--growth actually starts as early as March in their current location.--Hope this was helpful.--I would suggest that you protect annually in a 6a zone though--ESPECIALLY IN THE FIRST FEW YEARS.