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Flowering Dogwood Tree - leaves turning red and wilting [photos]

15 years ago

I just planted a pink flowering dogwood tree a month ago, we used peat moss, top soil and the original soil around it to plant it. The tree was fine when we planted it but as time passed we noticed that some of the leaves were turning red and starting to wilt. Eventually the whole tree started to die.

Here are some photos I've taken of it.

Here is a link that might be useful: Photos of my flowering dogwood tree

Featured Answer

jean001

15 years ago

Did you water after it was planted? If not, that's the likely problem.

But if you did, the key is to get the water directly into the rootball. Did that occur? Or did you water so much it drowned?

To know whether or not the rootball is moist or dry, stick a finger in it.

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Comments (6)

Stephanie Harris
8 years ago
Well could you tell me what I did wrong. I planted a Red Flowering Dogwood in front of my yard. This area gives at least 6-10 hours of sunlight. I have put a stone edge around it and soil. Not sure if I made it too big. My leaves are beginning to turn brown and the leaves are hard to the touch. I watered it and soaked it right after I planted it. This is the size when i bought it. There are new leaves growing behind the others though. Here is a picture of my tree.
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I agree with Mike. Generally I don't recommend treating for anthracnose as it is an ongoing issue that really only results in the eventual decline of the tree beyond salvation. Better to plant resistant forms if possible. If I had my druthers, they wouldn't even sell eastern dogwoods (Cornus florida) in this area as they are virtually guaranteed to get it. Having said all that, I have seen far more anthracnose this season than in previous years and on some so-called quite resistant cultivars. I think a great of deal of it is due to our recent weather.......an extremely mild winter and a mild, moist spring. Ideal conditions for fungal issues!! IME, anthracnose that first appears after these combinations of weather conditions is most likely temporary and somewhat treatable. It starts out as only a foliar problem but if ignored or exacerbated by additional weather issues, it can become systemic in following years. And in those cultivars/hybrids that are usually listed as resistant, it seldom ever progresses beyond the foliar stage. Cultural control at this point is all that is recommended although you may want to be somewhat preemptive next spring, weather depending, and start early on a fungicidal spray just in case. Here is a link that might be useful: dogwood anthracnose
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The white flowering thicket is cherry plum (Prunus cerasifera). This is frequently planted here as a root-stock for purple-leaved plums and other kinds, tends to spread from plantings on its own. Sweet cherry (P. avium) is another much cultivated stone fruit that is actually a nuisance species in local woods. It has even insinuated itself genetically by crossing with the native P. emarginata to produce P. x pugetensis. Luckily the hybrid does not seem to be able to generate seed crops. While I'm back I'd like to reiterate that larger-growing cotoneasters in particular can be problem re-seeders here (dozens of species - of all statures - have been seen growing wild in Seattle). Also point out that Prunus mume is an apricot - it even crosses with P. armenica, to produce what are called bungo* apricots in Japan - and not an almond, that there is no 'e' in hawthorn (unless you are talking about Nathaniel and not the tree), and that Rosaceae is a family and not a genus. I suppose some Eastern North American native tree and shrub species may be as foreign to local native birds as those from overseas. *Stock that has been offered locally under the silly name P. mume 'Bongo' is presumably an example of this combination
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If you are growing these plants in just 100% peat moss, then it is extremely likely you do have nutrient deficiencies - peat has virtually NO nutritive value. But this is very often the case with any container grown plant - container 'soils' generally have components that possess minimal, if any, nutrient levels. All nutrient needs must be supplied by the grower via fertilization. But there are other reasons aside from nutrient availability than can affect blooming, including the age of the plant, seasonality (the plant's internal calendar), vernalization (an appropriate chill period) and how it was propagated or if any pruning has been done. It sounds very much like your set-up is similar to that of greenhouse grown hydrangeas and greenhouse grown hydrangeas tend to be on a rigorous course of fertilization, growth hormones and light/temperature manipulation to encourage them to bloom early and out of season.
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I've lived here for 31 years and ever since I've been here the dogwoods SLOWLY start to turn sometime in August. Depends on the weather, the hotter and drier, the earlier they turn. This year this part of TN looks like Ireland, but the dogwoods have a tinge of red. Their color here will peak mid Oct, so a long color season for the dogwoods. Kousas wait til fall to turn.
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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
8 years ago
Poor dogwoods are happiest when grown where there is some light or dappled shade, especially in the hottest part of the day.

Is your tree planted directly into the native soil and then covered up with that composty looking stuff? Or how did you plant it?
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Stephanie Harris
8 years ago
I bought it already grown 4ft tall. I loosed the ball sat it the hole we dug out in the earth soil then put Miracle Grow Garden soil in it around it. Then I read some where to put mulch around it but not touching the tree branch itself and water in the evening. Not it the first part of the day when sun is on it directly. Because it could scorch it and sun just dries up the water. I took off all the dead leaves and now its starting to grow new leaves. So far its doing good. With it raining during the day has really helped it also. Thanks for responding.
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HU-473269188
2 years ago
Can you PLEASE PLEASE tell me if you ever found out what was wrong? I’m having the same problem with one of mine.
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
2 years ago
HU-etc, you need to start your own thread with proper photos of your plant and all the other details you can provide - when you planted it, how you planted it, how is it being watered and where you are located.
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