It probably is the light levels-length of day (light). Increase it by 30 minutes/day until you reach 17 hours/day, that should get them to lay. After they have been laying for about two weeks you can drop the time back down to 14 hrs/day. It may take 2 weeks or more to see results. RIRs are good layers. Winter time it is also common for the eggs to be smaller because most birds don't drink enough water to replace the moisture that they get from eating green vegetation and live insects, one would be surprised by the amount of water that is in these foods. Some feed their birds cooked foods that have a lot of moisture in them-like oatmeal-cornmeal-spaghetti. The lower water intake doesn't effect the quality of the eggs except when it comes to incubation. I usually increase the humidity by 10% when incubating these winter eggs and get good results. Post some pictures of your birds--everyone here would love to see them.

Wisteria seed pods are poisonous to horses [and I assume other animals] so mine are planted away from my horse pastures. Here is photo of my bush last spring - it is just about to start opening blooms. The fragrance is divine - it is, to me, what heaven would smell like. I love to work in my front yard rose bed while it is in bloom - intoxicating! I even bought a pop up shelter to cover it in case of a late freeze - which happened 2 years ago. It had just started blooming, here came the freeze and the blooms were toast. I was so mad I vowed this wouldn't happen again. This bush I now have looks like one I had in my yard when I was growing up and loved. I assume because my yard is mowed every other week that any sprouts that come up are mowed down. I am getting ready to plant another one that I have babied for 2 years in a pot to make sure that it would bloom white like the tag said - it is finally getting ready to bloom and is, indeed, white. These are hard to find and have a different fragrance from the lavender, but its strong and rich scent. I trim mine back sharply every year and it doesn't get out of bounds nor run wild. But - it is out in the middle of the yard and instead of a climber, makes a large bush - this way, it cant get into trouble. When in full bloom, people pull to the side of the road to look. I agree that they can get out of hand unless properly maintained but where mine is placed, it can be kept under control and rewards me with one of the things I love most about spring - 2 weeks of beauty and fragrance that cannot be duplicated. Judith

There is often debate over whether it's necessary to filter a pond, and always a few people who claim they have great luck with letting the pond "go natural" with no human interference. A man-made pond, though, is not a natural environment, and will only benefit from some form of filtration or at least aeration. Filtering keeps the water cleansed of organic wastes that can cause cloudy, smelly, murky, or even toxic water. It simplifies maintenance, conserves water by cleansing and recycling it, and can help create "gin-clear" water that allows optimal viewing of the pond and its inhabitants. If you plan on creating a water garden and keeping only plants in the pond, you should be able to get away with little or no filtration, depending upon the type and number of plants you grow. A small pump used with a spitter, fountain, waterfall, or similar feature, should create enough movement to keep the water from stagnating, and diligence in keeping dead plant life from accumulating in the water will help maintain water clarity. However, most people find that, once they've created the pond, they want to add fish, and this is when filtration becomes vital. The more fish you have, the more filtration is necessary to keep the water and the fish healthy. Fish produce ammonia from both their gills and kidneys. Ammonia is also produced from other organic matter decaying in the pond. Whatever the source, ammonia is toxic to fish and must be removed from the water. Frequent water changes and ammonia binding water conditioners will help temporarily, but the addition of a biological filter is the best and easiest way to deal with this toxin. Briefly, a biofilter works by creating a suitable living environment for certain types of bacteria which do the cleaning for you. As pond water is slowly pumped though the biofilter, Nitrosomonas bacteria consume the ammonia, turning it into nitrites (which are also harmful to fish.) Nitrobacter bacteria then oxidizes the nitrites into nitrates, which become food for the plants in your pond. Although these "good bacteria" are present on every surface in your pond, they are not usually there in large enough numbers to reliably cleanse the water of these compounds that are so deadly to fish, and so biofiltration is strongly recommended when there are fish in the pond. Mechanical filtration (that which removes solid waste) is always beneficial, but simply keeping the water clear of solids does not guarantee fish-safe water. Ammonia and nitrites can not be seen except through the use of water test kits. Ideally, water will first pass through some type of mechanical filter that removes solids prior to entering the biofilter, where the toxic compounds are oxidized to nitrates and sent back to the pond where the nitrates will be absorbed by the plants therefore keeping the pond healthy for both your fish and plants. These beneficial bacteria cease to function at temperatures below fifty degrees, so running the biofilter all winter is futile if you're in a cold winter area. The fish will not be eating and producing their usual amount of waste during the winter, so the biofilter will not be needed anyway. Once the autumn temperatures are below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, clean and store the biofilter until spring returns. If you're lucky enough to live in a warm climate, it should be kept running year round. Start the filter up again in the spring as the temperatures get into the upper 40s to low 50s. The nitrogen cycle takes about four to six weeks to establish once the bacteria begin colonizing in the warmer temperatures, so be diligent about testing your water for ammonia and nitrites if the fish are eating. It would take far too many pages to describe here all the types of filters available. Research and ask questions of more experienced ponders, and join several of the informative forums on the Internet. Do not always believe a manufacturer's advertisements, and if tempted to buy something being touted by a salesperson, research it before making an investment. There are many plans for do-it-yourself filters that are simple to make, produce excellent results, and are much less expensive than most of the commercial filters available. And remember - you can never have too large a biofilter! Ronaye, Steve and David

Hi tropicbreezent, I live in Boynton Beach west of the Turnpike, I have never had my soil tested. Realistically that would be the logical thing to do to determine what type of nutrients and ratio to put back into the ground. My trees produce very well and the varieties I grow are delicious. I would fertilize monthly from March - October perhaps a quarter of the reccomended amount each month up until October at which time I would apply a larger amount with a heavier ratio of potash. TB, my thinking is that I probably only need to fertilize the trees 2 or 3 times a year and water as needed and cutting back on watering from October to February. This winter we had near record rainfall in Palmbeach County. I don't know how that extra rain will affect production this year. I often feel that I throw everything at my trees but they would do just as well with less. I'm trying to find the right balance of fertilizer and schedule to go by. In my surrounding area there are several of us that grow mango trees. Our fertilization plans are all almost the same except one neighbor who does much less but yet has high productivity and very tasty mangos. tropicbreezent thank you for responding and giving your advice, I certainly appreciate it.