they like to germinate in cool temps, I think August would be too hot for them. I would start them now or in the fall. This is directly from the T and M website: Sow late winter/spring or late summer. Sow 1.5mm (1/16in) deep in good seed compost excluding light as darkness is beneficial. Germination usually takes 14-21 days at 19-24C (65-75F). Keep the soil just moist and avoid high temperatures which will prevent germination. When seedlings are large enough to handle, transplant and grow cool. Gradually acclimatise to outdoor conditions for 10-15 days before planting out after all risk of frost, 23-30cm (9-12in) apart in most soils, sun or part shade. Keriann~

Yes there are plenty, but some Ido earley are snaps. pansies, cineraria, shastas,phlox, penstemon , petunia,rubeckias , and annual campanulas ,foxgloves.

Melissia, It depends on what you want to grow and it depends on where you live in the state. What you choose to plant now will vary based on the days-to-maturity of the veggies you plant and the first autumn freeze in your area. Look at the linked thread from a while back. Compare the list of fast, medium and slow-maturing veggies. Figure out your average first freeze date. Compare the two and then plant what you think will have time to mature and produce. Here in southern OK (and probably in the rest of the state too) there's plenty of time to plant seed now and get a harvest from the plants on the "quick maturity" list. In fact, for most of the cool-season crops on that list, it is still too hot to direct seed them, although you could start seeds in cups where you can control their sun exposure and moisture. For plants on the "Moderate Maturity" list, some likely would have time to mature if planted from seed now and that includes broccoli, Chinese cabbage, carrots, cucumbers, sweet corn (if 65-70 DTM varieties are planted), green onions, kohlrabi, bush lima beans, okra (could fail to produce pods, though, if cool weather comes extra early), parsley, and southern peas. Peppers or cherry tomatoes MIGHT have time to produce before frost, but only if large transplants (from 5-6" pots) are set out ASAP. On the list of slow maturing plants, the cool season ones like brussels sprouts, cabbage, or cauliflower could be planted from seed and likely would produce before a freeze gets them. Of course, these particular vegetables can take some cold weather. Garlic is traditionally planted in fall (Sept.-Oct.) for harvest in late spring to early summer of the following year. For the warm season plants on the Slow Maturity list, it is likely too late for the following from seed or tuber: tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, sweet potatoes, Irish potatoes (might get some from tubers planted now if they are relatively short TM), pumpkins and winter squash or melons. It is definitely too late for melons, peppers, eggplant and tomatoes from seed. With everything else, it varies. For example, bush beans are a safer bet than pole beans at this point because they produce more quickly. Of course, everything hinges on the arrival of the first freezing weather/hard killing frost. Since moving here to Marietta 10 1/2 years ago, we've had a killing frost as early as Sept. 30th and as late as mid-December, so how well your fall garden does can vary a great deal depending on what the weather does. Hope this helps. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Veggies You Can Still Plant For Fall Harvest

Hey Jenn: I think you'd probably start yours a week or two before I start mine, so I'd begin next week with some things like cole crops that take longer to get going: cabbage, cauliflower, etc. I begin to judge in August how warm it is relative to day length and then begin lettuces, arrugula etc. again. Usually between these two times I will start more asian veggies like bok and pac chois, mustards, kale and swiss chard. I'm not sure what you do with root vegetables. We sow ours in the fall with direct seeding beginning in August. GGG