Fan Palm Equilibrium Threshold DECLINE Palms have no true dormancy period. In the mature phase, every leaf lost must be replaced, to maintain a delicate equilibrium of mass. If they do not grow, they decline. If a palm is stressed by damage to fronds, loss of spear and/or defoliation by exposure to extreme threshold freeze (short-term subzero cold) or periodic threshold freeze (long-term subfreezing cold), then there is a minimum growing degree day accumulation required for the palm to recover 100% damage and resume growth. If that minimum is not achieved in one growing season, unable to fully replace damaged tissue, a palm expends stored energy to replace greater lost mass, not to grow, and begins a decline period ranging from one to multiple seasons, at the end of which the exhausted palm finally dies. That explains why there is a notable absence of long term surviving palms in USDA Zones 5-7, even when it is demonstrated that palms can survive common expected winter cold in those regions. It also supports why palms lose fronds and achieve their distinct shape during the mature phase of their lives. Every leaf shed must be replaced by another leaf, to maintain balance. Limiting damage from lethal freeze (or drought) reduces the number of GDD (see below) necessary to replace mass and resume growth. Perennial protection will extend the life of the palm, even if it is decline mode GDD Growing Degree Days The GDD threshold for a palm stressed to loss of spear, defoliation, or both is variable to species, like the duration or severity of freeze exposure. The following are GDD estimations required for full recovery and the resumption of growth. Insufficient GDD may result in the decline period that leads to death of the palm. The GDD formula used is the 24 hour period high-low temperature sum, less 100, for each day of the frost-free growing season, from 1 April to 1 November. (50 base for each temperature) Rhapidophyllum hystrix ~2800 GDD Trachycarpus fortunei 'greensboro' ~3200 GDD Trachycarpus takil ~3200 GDD Trachycarpus fortunei 'bulgaria' ~3200 GDD Trachycarpus fortunei ~3200 GDD Sabal minor ~3600 GDD Sabal birminghamn ~4500 GDD Chamaerops humilis ~4500 GDD Seronoa repens ~4600 GDD Butia capitata ~4700 GDD Washingtonia filifera ~5600 basically this means the high and low added together ex Hi 75+ Lo 45=120-100=20gdd so if tour total is 20 as here and say thats your total for april 1 you would add up your totals for the whole month so lets say that every day in april is 45 to 75 take that # 20x30days in april gdd 600 then add up for growing season April-October in my area S.E.Iowa last year was approx 3685 remember this does not apply to the south as far as regrowing leaves because they dont deal with palms needing to regrow all their leaves-this was lifted from "growing palms in colorado springs usda zone 5b"a very informative site to say...

I would be very careful removing the suckers. They are attached to the same root stock, so you run the risk of damaging the mother plant. I personally would rather buy a new plant, so you don't risk losing the plant.

Well, yes, if you cut the main trunk the suckers will soon take over without any problem. But I am confused by your description of what happened to the main trunk. I'm not sure what you mean by the trunk bent over. These tend to be very robust, sturdy, thick plants that would not bend over or snap from a windy day (unless it was maybe in a hurricane). Do you mean that the trunk itself bent or the the whole plant (root ball and all shifted over). If it's the whole plant then just straighten it out in the pot (you could still stake it if you like). But if you meant that the trunk itself bent, are you referring to possible rotting of trunk tissue? If this is the case, it was due to overwatering--not wind. I'm not sure why you would want to remove the main trunk unless it was rotted out.

I would not use the moisture control potting mix. That was the one with the moisture retaining capsules I was referring to. It is good for potted annuals on a hot summer porch, but it stays wet forever which will defeat the purpose of a well drained mix. Plain old regular MiracleGro potting mix in the green bag is what I use. Many will advise you that this is not a great mix, but that is what I can get readily here, and I don't like the other products I have tried. You might want to mix it with some builders sand as others have suggested, but don't use play sand. I've never used perlite, so I don't know what to tell you about that. I believe it was Jim on the other board that said to try to emulate the growing conditions of where the plant is native. Sand, a little pea gravel, maybe some of that mulch that you have on the plant now would all be good amendments. Since you are only potting up 1 small plant though, I think regular potting mix mixed with some of that bark mulch is fine. Someone else mentioned Miracle Gro mix for palms, cacti, etc... That would be perfect, I would never buy it myself because it's just too darn expensive and is only sold in small bags.