Hi Al, Thanks for commenting. Please give all the technical reasons you want. I need all the help I can get. I've had the tiger bark ficus for almost a month. It was extremely over-watered at the place I bought it, so you're right there. I just repotted it in your gritty mix. I haven't fertilized yet, as I'm waiting for my foliage pro to be delivered. I was worried it had mosaic, when I started seeing the mottled leaves. It still has a few of those but there are no deformed leaves, which was noted when I was researching the virus. In any event - in the hope that it's just chlorosis I did get Bonide liquid iron today. Since you obviously have experience with ficus, what would you suggest I do next? Use the Iron or wait for the foliage pro? Thank you for any help you can give!

That height is 12 inches. I've fine tuned that over the years. Frogs, birds, snakes, squirrels and what not can move in and out under the net but herons cannnot figure it out. They are too tall to go under it and if pulled firmly they cannot spear the fish through it. No sagging. Attach the net to a framework built for it rather than hodgepodge use of bricks, sticks, etc. The net is the only thing that will keep a heron out 100%. In the fall, when leaves fall lower the net a bit on the prevaling winds side of your pond to keep leaves out if that is a problem in your location. If pulled snugly leaves that land on the top will blow away. I will warn you that I do get the occasional bird (Grackles do this and not others) that will walk under the net and then panic to flight if something scares it and it will hit the net and not take off. 99% of the time after a few attempts they make their way out unharmed, but I did have one drowning in the past year of a young Grackle (but not a baby).

bettsyy, the bumps on the stems may be roots trying to form where the stem got wet, tomatoes will try to put out roots along the stem even above ground if the stem is wet enough... do you water the ground below the plant or the actual leaves? Also, if the yellow leaves are relatively spot-free, and they are the lowest leaves, they could just be dying off due to age and lack of sunlight down low on the plant... or they can be yellowing from overwatering. How is the soil you planted in and how have you been watering and have you had much rain?

Hi zetterberg, The curling upward & chlorosis on older leaves looks like magnesium (Mg) deficiency symptoms. It is not fatal. I am guessing that you have been using a good deal of calcium (Ca) in your fertilizer, since we are always paranoid about BER. Also, when a container medium is "limed" to adjust pH, this technique can introduce several Ca variables. (Not subject of this post.) There is a problem associated with Ca, which is usually a booster of mineral uptake - but not Mg. Mg uptake is less with excessive Ca present (one reason why symptoms take time to show up = it takes time for Ca to build up). Since Ca is not a fast moving element it is possible that in a SWC it is accumulating in the root zone, from wicking into the growing medium. This Ca can the alter the root's membrane surface & bind to reactive sites in a way that affects permeation of Mg. (But the same Ca behavioral properties encourages many other ions, like crucial potassium or K, uptake.) So, please review your level of Ca use, to see if you are using too much of a good thing. In a SWC the fertilization technique (ie: wicks up depending on growing medium used) may be hard to alter, but the fertilizer ingredients can be adjusted. Flushing of the growing medium would be possible to do; but quite inconvenient an extreme if leaf Mg deficiency symptoms are not becoming rampant. An effort to foliar feed Mg may or may not be effective, opinions on the technique vary. Foliar feeding excessive Mg that is allowed to drip down into the growing medium may or may not (TDS problems) be desirable. Poster named structure indicates his top watered container tomatoes do not have these symptoms, but tomatoes in his SWC do. To me this indicates his top watering precludes the Ca from accumulating in the tomato root zone & so no Ca antagonistic affect occurred with Mg; unlike symptoms seen in his SWC tomatoes. Dirt growers have an open eco-system so tomato crops are less prone to this Ca/Mg inter-action problem. For those with high Ca content in their irrigation well water &/or calcerous (many island land is upthrust coral) soils the symptoms of Mg deficiency are possible.