Your tomatoes will be verrrry tall, even the cherry types, so you need to have them along the outer north row so they can't shade anything. Are your peas bush peas? They do have them I know because I got some this year. If they are vining types, again, they need to go along the outer row with the tomatoes so they don't shade your other crops. In other words, use your north outer row for all your tall vining crops. When your other crops need shade, you can cover them with double layers of cheesecloth over wire clothes hangers formed into a curve over them to extend their season, the lettuce, spinach and radishes especially, which will go to seed in the heat eventually. Good luck and enjoy it. I began in 2009 and so look forward to the new season each year. I learn something new all the time.

Erin, Good plan to use the shade you have to your advantage as it will keep crops longer in the garden. I'm glad that my suggestions were helpful. Gardening is learn as you go thing, wait & see, try & try again... that can test your patience. What I like about SFG is that it simplifies gardening and since you plant by squares you're not planting huge long rows of things you won't have time to harvest & eat up. It's handy to carry a basket & scissor out to go "get dinner". A lot of things that aren't mature enough can be put in a stir fry if you just want to thin out your plantings a bit. I don't want my garden to be harvested at once, so that's an easy way to eat it up. Starting late is no big deal. You're working the soil & figuring out your gardening habits as well as conditions with lighting, moisture needs, etc. Working on your soil is also a good thing because hungry plants don't grow no matter how much sunshine you have. The book says you won't need to add anything except compost to SFG beds, but I find that adding a complete organic fertilizer (COF) in spring for the heavy feeders is important to get fast growth for my limited sun site especially as the sun position lowers mid-August onward & tall trees give more shade. Just follow the directions on the bag & keep it in a closed container to keep dry as it won't expire. I do add compost after harvest before planting again. My soil needs lime yearly, so we add that with manure in the fall with used coffee grounds from St*rbucks as a mulch to protect from the pelting winter rains. Then in spring we add the COF & if needed to top up the beds more cured compost. We mulch with dried grass clippings, so that also feeds the soil. Maybe you can limb up the Sycramore tree a bit to get more sunlight. Then as it grows taller those lower limbs will be higher up, right? In part sun conditions the harvests are a bit longer in coming. Teaches patience & can be frustrating when you read 66 days to harvest. I find bush beans more successful than pole beans and runner beans better than both because of the shade & my cooler climate. The crops you're waiting on are longer to harvest & warm weather ones. Growing lettuce, spinach, & other greens quickly is rewarding because it fills space & you have a harvest to "prove" you're a gardener. You might want to try planting chives because they are a well behaved perennial edger & you have multiple cuttings from each clump. I have onion chives in one bed & garlic chives in 2 other beds. I let them flower away & don't worry about them seeding around because I mulch. The bees love it & pollinate my other things, too. Here's a pic from early last summer with chives, pansies, calendula & bedding dahlia in front. Cabbages, broccoli, bok choi, etc. in the back. The green buckets are leftover from a self watering container experiment the year before, but got blight, so I have left them vacant. The other buckets collect rainwater & the big black thing is a composter. Burlap bags are on the paths to keep the weeds down. Notice the large douglas fir trunk in the back on the north side of my garden We've limbed it up as far as we can reach & that helped a lot, but it still sucks the moisture out from the bottom.

One additional thought for whatever it might be worth. Just looking at your plant key code it would seem that you have overly high expectations for what all you want to fit into a 20x60' plot. It is a relatively small garden and could easily be over-crowded with everything on your list thus creating all the problems that result. 48 okra plants is a ton of okra! Even for okra lovers like we are. Plus it is a heat lover so needs later planting than many of the other crops do. 48 turnips isn't a lot of turnips if you really like them but they usually are a fall garden inclusion and could be more beets now instead. 8 eggplants would be 4 plants too many for me and I love eggplant. Still it is many plants for such a small garden. 12 Amish Paste Tomato plants? Only that variety? Only paste types? And why all the Crimson Clover? What is the goal with that? Just a decorative border - then a low growing might be better. Or do you plan to till it in for soil improvement? Mow it and use it as mulch? Insect attractant? Most every thing in the garden is self-pollinating, not insect pollinated. Just some thoughts to consider. Dave

I am not worth a darn in trying to determine what and when to plant in the spring. I think the lettuce will germinate but will it then bolt??? My spinach and Bok Choy already bolted. Just now starting to harvest the Broccoli that was transplanted 3/4. Transplanted onions and leeks the first week of Feb. Transplanted Artichokes about 4/2. Transplanted my first 2 tomatoes in garden on 2/13 and used season extension methods to keep them from freezing. Another 2 tomatoes planted in 2 gallon containers and put in a wagon that was rolled inside the garage when the weather got cold then transplanted them to the garden after it warmed up a little. Most of my tomatoes I planted the last week of March and first week of April. Planted potatoes starting 2/24 and covered with a heavy layer of wheat straw. Experimenting this year with corn. Seeded inside and planted in the garden just after sprouting. I did a 3 foot x 4 foot plot each week for 6 weeks. First planting was 3/7 and used season extension methods to keep them warm. Garlic planted first week in Nov last year. Planted Strike Shell Peas 3/11. Just started cucumbers and squash and zucchini in pots (waiting for Broccoli to finish before planting the cucubrits in their bed). Harvesting Fava Beans now that were planted last Nov. Harvesting Carrots now that I planted last fall. I still need to plant the okra and cowpeas when some beds free up after harvesting garlic, onions, potatoes, carrots, English peas, fava beans.