I don't thing potting-up is necessary yet, especially in the light of the fact that peppers like it hot, bright, & dry. Potting-up makes it a little more difficult to judge just how dry the soil really is at the container bottom. Your yellow leaves could be from a bunch of things. The first 3 things that come to mind is over-watering & the accompanying root rot, N shortage, or Fe shortage. Several other nutrient shortages could cause yellowing as well. How the yellowing manifests itself also provides additional clues. Copper & molybdenum (sp ?) scarcity also can cause the leaf distortion you mention. Do you have any idea what the pH of your water is? High Ph often locks up macro/micro nutrients that would normally be available in soils if pH was lower. I know I haven't helped, but I doubt you'll get a definitive answer without someone experienced looking at your plant. I would: Use a light hand on the watering can, try watering with rain water or water collected from a pond or similar, and apply a balanced fertilizer in liquid form (for fastest results) at half strength and watch for improvement (one of the major fertilizer manufacturers is offering a fertilizer with the minor elements in it. My memory fails me, so I can't tell you which, but it was probably Schultz, Peter's, MG, or similar. I saw it at Lowe's) I think it is worth trying, for container gardeners). If leaf color and growth improves, I would begin a fertilizer program of half strength applications. You'll have to judge the frequency, based on how fast your soil drains & how much water you apply at each watering. Important questions: How many seconds does it take for water to percolate through soil at watering time? Can you water freely, so water runs through soil, or would that leave your soil too wet for too long? Al

I use a stem test. If I can lift up the fruit and the stem gives way from the plant, then it's ready to pick. If you lift up the fruit & stem and there's no give, the pepper is not ready to pick yet. Hungarian Hot Wax usually go from green to yellow to orange to red when ripe.

Chandra, I don't know that I'd trust that lady bug thing from the Farmer's Almanac. I've had lady bugs for 3 or 4 weeks now and had frost just a few days ago! Jhart, I agree with the others on Sprite, Lime Green Salad, Garden Peach and Paul Robeson. Of those 4, Paul Robeson has gottest the tallest--about 4 feet but it just doesn't like me and tends to die before producing ripe fruit. I don't know why. Maybe it is my soil. Baker Family Heirloom is very large and should grow in the ground. Razzleberry is a determinate that gets about 4 or 4.5' tall so it could be grown in a large-ish container. By large-ish I mean at least 7-10 gallons. Winsall did not get as large in my garden as I expected an Indeterminate to grow, but I grew it in a year when we had extreme drought like this year and the other year when I grew it we had excessively heavy rain and all my tomato plants sat in really wet soil for too long and stalled and stunted. I haven't grown it in a 'normal weather year' because I don't think we have those kinds of years here. For me, Indian Stripe grows like Cherokee Purple--taller than your average determinate but not a huge indeterminate. I usually grow it in the ground, but I've grown it in 20-gallon containers and it did just fine. I grew Lillian's Yellow in a year we had exceptional drought (the most severe form of drought) and it only got 3 or 4' tall, but I think it would have gotten taller in good moisture. Yellow Brandywine is a huge monster so I'd only put it in the ground. Rio Grande is a determinate but I would put it in the ground. It grows very vigorously (wide! thick! full!) and puts out a huge load of fruit. Because paste tomatoes like Rio Grande are prone to blossom end rot, and because moisture is hard to control in containers, and because uneven moisture contributes to blossom end rot, I'd put it in the ground. Hope that helps. Y'all. Unless you are going to water like a maniac or are in one of the far NE OK counties that has had plentiful rainfall, expect smaller than usual plants in this year's drought conditions. That will allow you to space them a bit closer than usual (as long as you're NOT using overhead watering) and to grow some Ind. in containers because in these conditions they won't get really huge. Please realize that if we are already in Extreme drought now (as any of you are), the next step "up" is to Exceptional Drought. I find it hard to water enough to keep a garden going in exceptional drought conditions. There's only so much water any of us can afford to pour onto the dry ground. In these conditions, water well early (in April and in May) in an effort to get your plants to grow well and set fruit. However, once fruit are sizing up nicely, you need to be very careful not to water excessively or your fruit will have bland flavor. It is a delicate balancing act. Dawn

top view of my japapeno bought it about a month ago with just two flowers and no pepers on it this are all my plants togheter took them indoors due to bad weather this is my cherry pepers have been about two weeks in the hydro set up this is my cayan also two weeks in the hydro set up got it with just one tiny chili wich has grown to triple the size a side view of my banana pepers finally taking off also about a month old just like the jalapenos but the jalapenos were bigger when i bought them My jalapenos again the set up had to be painted black was growing alge but the black paint fixed the problem my banana pepers when i first got them