Hmm. Two great suggestions. Excellent point, PirateGirl, about getting moisture from the leaves. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't cutting the plant off from anything prematurely. As to the original root/stem structure not putting anything new out, I do wonder if it will, in fact. The pale blue-ish Graptos growing behind the one in question are "new" growth from a root/stem structure that I had managed to knock the original stems off of (clumsy me). I didn't really think it would survive, but I left it alone, and lo and behold it began to sprout new growth. It's been over a year now, and you can see how well its done. But that was that plant; maybe this one won't...? I suppose we'll see. I think I'll do as PirateGirl says, but in the Spring, like Micro suggests. And NO WATERING after it's been cut. Got it. *CG*

Capish, I alway cut off the large leaves from my cuttings, so that the energy goes to the roots. I found in the past that the large leaves always fell anyway. Once they are potted, put them into a warm, room temperature place that is well lit, but not direct lighting. Give them a good water, and then don't water again until you see the soil starting to dry up and shrink from the side of the pot. You will note that the small leaves start to go a little limp. This dryness forces the plant to send out roots looking for water. Then water. When you see tiny roots starting to show from the drainage holes, then you should put into more direct light, and water on a more regular basis. It will reward you for your care and kindness to it. I would not put it back into water either. I firmly believe that the plant will be happier if you can give it the nourishment that soil provides. The water rooting method ( brugs in a bucket) works well, and is useful for a situation where one does not have space to pot up and give adequate light for the winter. It is also a great way to get the roots started. I've got some set up that way right now, but I will pot them up and put them under lights for the winter.

Yes, my edges were straight, not eased. Unless the ease is really big, like a small bevel, I doubt it would show up. You could ease the edges yourself using an abrasive stone. (They sell them for this purpose, mostly for getting rid of the really sharp edge on ceramic tile.) Another option is to make three cuts per tile. Instead of trying to cut the tile exactly in half, you could make the final tiles, say, 11.5". First you cut all the tiles in half. To do this, you would set the fence on your saw so that the blade came close to bisecting the tile. Then you set the fence a little closer so that you can cut a little sliver from the tile. Turn the tile around so that you are cutting off the eased edge. This would have one advantage and one disadvantage. It is actually a little easier to get the tiles all the same size this way, rather than having to exactly bisect the full tile. The disadvantage is that I am a bit worried about keeping the tiles exactly parallel. 24" is a big rip. Not all saws can handle it. You have to be careful that your cuts are truly (and consistently) perpendicular to the tile edges. A third the price? Go for it!

There is a different feel to poly cotton and most of us prefer to use 100% quilters' cotton for our quilts because cotton is just softer. But if you are o.k. with using poly cotton, then that is fine - it's your project and the quilt police will not be raiding your sewing room to get rid of any poly cotton! ha! If I'm making a scrap quilt with small pieces in scrappy blocks, I'm not above using some poly cotton in the quilt if it makes the quilt look all the more scrappy. Always check the information on the end of the bolt before you buy or do a burn test safely at home if you have doubts as to the fabric's content. Cut a few slivers of the fabric and burn in a fire-safe glass or metal container. 100% cotton will burn to a fine, gray ash. Any man made fibers will melt and become somewhat hard.