That's a sensational difference in appearance. Very well done! I think I'll follow your lead and leave part of my lawn unfertilized next month, so I can marvel at the difference too, I hope.

I have not yet used either of these products but will have a look at it more Have heard talk about alfalfa What I have used and think is marvellous is Corn Gluten Is supposed to be a weed seed inhibitor but I find it as well really greens up the grass.

I sure do, gray. It's in Millbury called Roger's Farm and Garden. 508-865-1599. 269 W. Main Street. What they don't have in stock, they will order for you. I just recently had them order me some soybean meal and it was ready the next week. The alfalfa pellets (not sure about the meal) and soybean both cost about $11/50 lb. bag, but can go up and down in price to a degree. They are very nice in there and I'm glad I found them. It took me a long time to find a place in my area, and I'm getting ready to get some cornmeal or cracked corn for them this week.

Keep in mind that most all soybeans grown in the USA are genetically engineered to be resistant to glyphosate products and there is more and more evidence that this is haarmful to humans long term. Since the concept of genetic engineering is anathema to an organic gardener/farmer the use of those products probably should be also. Usually zone 6 grasses are cool season grasses, Kemtuky Bluegrass, Perennial Rye, one or more of the Fescues, although people do seed other species. Possibly your state universities Cooperative Extension Service people couild help you identify what you have. Sometimes those that do soil tests do give organic matter levels, often, lately, they do not. These simple soil tests can help you determine that, and some other soil related information. 1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains� too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. Here is a link that might be useful: Genetic Engineering