Hi again, Mattew == The problem with IDs for aerangis species especially, is that late 19th century/early 20th century competing French taxonomists/botanists were sloppy, did not compare notes, and were focused more on the status of naming a new species than accuracy. The peer-review process was nothing like what it is today. Consequently, our present mess. There are some multiple names for single species, and CITES must list all of these to "cover their bases." (Imagine someone smuggling a plant claiming a name that CITES doesn't recognize...) And you are right -- Jay's site lists these multiple names as well. I think Jay takes the perspective that, "OK, here are the names and photos representing historical and present understanding. Until someone proves me wrong and consolidates the species, here's what we accept right now in 2009." Jay's site is not peer-reviewed, and he has been criticized in the past for this. However, his site represents one of the best and most comprehensive resources that orchid collectors have available to them. Therefore, it has great value in my opinion. Aerangis species are variable. Some of this variation has to do with cultivation, and some is genetic. A couple of species are so true with respect to variation that they have been named as separate species, but are in fact subspecies. Aerangis ellisii is one example, and Aerangis fastuosa is another. Botanists have begun straightening these two species out. It is possible that some of the original IDs may be correct -- that there were plants discovered that are in fact different. We may never know the complete truth. In a recent correspondence with a nursery in Madagascar that specializes in angraecoids, the owner shared that two well-known angraecoid specialists had plans to visit the nursery to help clear up some IDs. (Authors/contributors of the book, Angraecoid Orchids.) I don't know if this visit occurred, but we can hope that things will become clearer at some point. If you have an opportunity to purchase a plant labelled with a name considered a synonym, but the bloom looks different -- BUY IT -- and ask questions later! -Bruce

Those would all be fine choices. He's got his species list back up on his website but I don't see any Ang hybrids mentioned. But as I said before, he almost certainly will bring some. I can't remember for sure if it was Lemford White but i think so. His website lists florulentum which has truly one of the most glorious fragrances of any living thing. They're not so easy to bloom however. Pretty easy to grow though. If he brings one, you should get it for sure. Magdalenae is more of a cool/intermediate grower, but if he's got them growing in SC, they're probably acclimated. So if he brings that, buy it. He's likely to have at least one member of the perrierangraecum section of Angraecum, which are all quite similar in culture, growth habit, flower size and appearence (that's why they're all in the same section...duh). So if he has: didieri, elephantinum, compactum, obesum, or equitans, get one. I would get one of the latter three if possible because you can get didieri anywhere and you can get elephantinum from CalOrchids. As for Aerangis.....I bet he brings biloba. They're fairly sturdy as Aerangis go. He might bring fastuosa which would be sorely tempting...after all, the beauty and fragrance is nearly unrivaled and the plant is cute and small. But, it is pretty easy to kill. I'd say that you should avoid Aerangis species that have small, thin roots, in general. But then again, you have to break some eggs to make a fritatta, right? I mean, ask yourself...how does he know its easy to kill? Cuz I've killed it. :( Maybe that's the moral to this story. In order to really figure out how to grow Angs or orchids in general, you have to be willing to roll the dice sometimes and just try one that you like. Often one finds out that one cannot grow something that one likes, or at least can't grow it for more than a month! But often one finds that one CAN grow things that one wouldn't expect to be able to grow. So, in closing, i don't know what to tell you or what you should do, besides the obvious, which is GET MORE ANGS! :) -MB

Hi Whitecat8 -- If nothing else, you sure are thorough! With that going for you, these setbacks can't keep you down for long! ;-) Don't take your Aerangis fastuosa outside. There are too many hostile variables outside, especially if it's unprotected. I have a roach problem in my gh, and unless I spray and track down the little monsters where they hide, they seem to particularly enjoy munching on the fresh new leaves of this species. You wouldn't have roaches, but perhaps grasshoppers, a stray sunbeam, etc., could spell the end for your baby. This species doesn't have much in the way of roots, and they tend to be small and fine. It doesn't appear from your photo that it has attached itself to the mount, unless there is some attachment underneath the pad of sphagnum. Andy can grow his "orchids on a stick," but unless you have gh conditions like him (or duplicate those conditions in a terrarium), that type of mount is much too small and thin for an indoor grower. What you need is a 5"x6" cork slab. Don't remove the sphagnum that is already in place. Just snip the fishing line, press the plant and pad into position onto the cork, and pack more sphagnum around it without approaching the lower leaves. Not a lot more sphagnum, but a bit more. If there's a little nook or crevice in the center of the slab, then take advantage of it and nestle the base of the plant into it. Having air only circulate around one side of the mount, as opposed to all sides, will keep it from drying out quickly. Also, the additional sphagnum will help. Sometimes it takes a helping hand from a friend to get fishing line good and secure around a piece of cork. Tie a small loop on one end of the line first, make one loop around the mount, then feed the other end through the small loop. After you snug this up tight, you can wrap as needed easily, and then when you're ready to tie it off, gingerly hold the mount between your knees to free up your other hand. Knot the loose end against the small loop that should be on the back side of the slab. It doesn't take that many wraps of fishing line...usually four or five will do. More than that and you risk compacting the moss too tightly. Is your water heavily mineralized? When I was using municipal water in south Florida (just about the worst water you can imagine), I never had problems, and never was concerned about flushing. Now I'm on well, with low TDS, and that's not even a possibility. Unless you're noticing white buildup, don't fret about this. You may want to consider a large terrarium at some point, although if you've ever seen MrBreeze's pics of his setup, that's a dangerous path to go down! LOL! I think Calvin is doing this on a smaller scale for his angs. Low humidity, all by itself, is not generally a "bad" thing. It's how the increased evaporation rate affects the substrate and exposed roots on mounties, as well as developing buds. Low humidity with high air movement = bad. Low humidity with no/low air movement = probably OK. High humidity with no/low air movement = catastrophic. High humidity with high air movement = great. If you have high air movement and your humidity cycles between 30-50%, that's probably acceptable if you make the change I suggested above. If you allow your plants a seasonal dry rest in the winter, then your air movement wouldn't be as necessary most of the time. It's helpful to dry excess water off of leaves, but if your air is otherwise dry, and you water in the morning, that shouldn't be a problem. Most indoor growers don't do seasonal changes, however, so you probably would continue to run your fans throughout the year. The only reason I can see to run fans day and night is if you're using a terrarium. It certainly wouldn't hurt to run your fan over plants during the night in an open room, but, again, if you water in the morning, it shouldn't be necessary. You may reconsider running your humidifiers. There should be enough treatment in your water to eliminate issues, but if you have a concern about bacteria/mold, then treat it yourself. I don't know the capacity of the units you have, but eight drops (or so) of bleach per gallon should eliminate the potential for any problems with pathogens. Keep in mind that as the humidifier is throwing out mist, you don't want that settling on plants when there isn't air movement. I don't believe the bleach smell will be that noticeable at that concentration, but you'll just have to experiment. Also, if you want to avoid having to clean the filter, de-scale, etc., then just purchase R/O water at one of those dispensers at the grocery store...30 cents per gallon around here. Hope this helps. -Bruce

Thank you all for your comments and recommendations... even though it has only made my list longer... Clint - I had looked at fastuosa and was tempted. Your suggestion has pushed me that much further and having Mr. Breeze second it.... well, I definitely think I'll drop James a note about it. tmigratoris and mikedahms - I know, my good, practical self and my orchidaholic self are duking it out to see whether I'll get every single one or not. Paramount is a good recommendation, though for now, I am looking at Cal Orchid, since I've already got a pre-order for some variegated Neofinetias which are not as available in Canada. If I can keep the Aerangis from this order alive until next year and get at least one to bloom, I'll definitely take a closer look at Paramount's stock. Mr. Breeze - kirkii? Like the notion of tesselated foliage, seems like it would stay small... but I'm getting dangerously close to getting four Ang-relatives, when I was really looking to just get Aer. splendida and a buddy so it wouldn't be lonely. I'm already at 3... Argh! Oh well, you only live once. Might as well get 4, especially since I can rationalize it by saying that 2 don't really count as they're only NFS. Thanks again everybody. Julie