BettyLu,

I have hosta near our pin oak. They were here when we moved in 13 years ago, so I am not sure of the names, but now that I am a hostaholic (thanks to all of you!), I will research to discover what they are-right after I finish planting all the new ones I keep getting (whose names I do know). They do just fine. I don't seem to have a problem near any of our many oaks. I say go for it!

Cynthia

Oaks have a comparably deep root system, so yes, they would be much more compatible than many other trees. However, all trees will have a few surface roots I believe. Here's a ring of large hostas planted around a pin oak in my yard:

I don't take any chances when it comes to root competition. I line all of my flower beds with a root barrier. There is a root-proof barrier even for these hostas which would prevent the pin oak from competing with the hostas even if it wanted to.

Hey Don, those are really nice!

Betty Lu, one of the guys gave me a good rule of thumb, 'nut trees' generally have a tap root and less superficial roots making them better choices for planting under as Don mentions.

Don can you tell me more in email about the root barrier system you use or start a thread?

oak is my favorite.. though i have no pin oak per se ....

in GENERAL .. all nut trees are deep rooted.. and problem free ... so .. beech.. oak.. walnut... etc ...

ken

As far as a beech goes, I do not have good luck growing under the native beech. The root system is on the order of a maple (evil tree).

Found this discription on the American Beech.

"The American Beech tree does not like city living, probably because of the carbon monoxide. The American Beech tree has a shallow root system and likes bottom land, and upland soil. There are two reasons why it is hard to grow anything beneath the tree. The first is because the leaves that grow on the tree block the sunlight and keep the ground constantly in shade. The second reason is because much of the root system grows all over the ground's surface, and uses any moisture that may reach the ground."

Ornamental beech (like the tricolored) may have a different root system, don't know.

Deb

Yay! I am very happy to get your encouragement for this bed! I haven't yet tried digging in the area around the oak, but I have rocks and compost set aside for edging and to raise up the soil a bit for the new hosta beds.

Ken, your gorgeous bed is EXACTLY what I want mine to look like and I would LOVE to hear what kind of root barrier you are talking about. If it would work in the back where I battle the maple roots, I would re-do those beds in a heartbeat (a big job, but would be so worth it)! Also, what are the low, green leaved plants in the inner ring? They are a wonderful contrast to the large hosta leaves!

You all have NO IDEA how excited I am about this project! I bought my house 12 years ago (typical subdivision lot on clay soil) and all the trees were already here and unfortunately they include more maples, than anything else....

In the front yard I have what I believe to be a Norway maple (that did NOT do well with the hosta - so that bed now only has Solomons Seal, mulch, a large decorative planter and liriope to edge). The backyard has a HUGE green japanese maple on one side of the yard at the patio that seems to be coexisting ok with the hostas and ferns planted below. In between the two side property lines is all plantings and paths with a line of Frasier firs at the rear bordering the woods.

I have removed two silver maples, but am balking at the $1,200 price tag to remove the 50'+ tall Silver Maple at the other side of the backyard. If the root barrier method you are using will allow me to grow hosta like yours, I will forever be in your debt!

I can't wait to start!

BettyLu

i did NOT mention a root barrier .. and have no experience with them ...

thank god my beech is 150 feet away from the hosta.. lol .. ought to be far enough ... lol .. i guess i made a presumption based on its NUTNESS ...

ken

Ooops! Big goof am I!

I meant to say DON! Please forgive my "senior" moment LOL!

Ken - I wish I could say that my trees were that far away! My entire lot isn't 150 feet wide, so there is no escaping the root zones - Darn!

BettyLu

I live in St. Louis, and had a nice hosta bed around a pin oak at my old house. I never had any problems growing them. Linked below are some pics - the first 7 pics are of the same bed with a different border added later.

Here is a link that might be useful: clicky

Loved the pics weed!

Weed, your pictures are absolutely wonderful! It really makes me wish I had started the hosta in the front yard under the Pin Oak first, instead of in the backyard with all the maples and firs. If I only knew then, what I have learned on this forum....

I remember, though, the reason I didn't do just that was that I had teenagers who played basketball just a few feet from the oak - probably not a good combination for my kids "health" or my sanity if you know what I mean LOL.

Now that the kids are all grown and gone, I don't have to worry about stray balls ending up crushing my plants and can play in the dirt all I want! Now I just have to decide which hosta are getting moved/divided to the front yard and maybe, just maybe, allow myself to purchase some new selections from my favorite nursery - hopefully on sale! (insert visions of next spring here)

Now I am REALLY ready to get that bed started with all these inspirational pictures. I can see too that I need to buy a good camera so that I can document my garden the way you have - I am sure it is very much more reliable to have pictures from each year and not to rely on my memory!

Thanks
BettyLu

no prob betty...

just wanted to make sure you didnt start stalking me.. for an answer .. to a solution i dont know about ...

i KNOW how these hosta stalkers can get... lol

ken

Trees are major competitors for nutrients and water. If you're striving to grow huge, luscious hostas, you'll have to control or eliminate root competition. Some folks have inquired about installing a root proof barrier.

Although there are a variety of techniques to deal with the problem, the method(s) you may choose to employ is determined by the amount of work and money you're willing to expend. For my gardens, I prefer installing a continuous liner that cannot be penetrated by tree roots. Of course, it's much easier to do so during the installation of a new flower garden than with an existing one.

First, you'll have to dig out the top soil where your new flower bed will be. Determine what depth you desire. Large hostas that are well-grown can have a fairly deep root system. I like my top soil to be at least 2 feet deep, even deeper if I can. Rake the bottom of the hole flat and smooth.

Now you're ready to install the liner. A variety of materials is suitable, and what you go with depends primarily upon your budget. The cheapest is to pick up an old swimming pool liner (or solar cover) from someone's trash, or find one on Craigslist. I see a lot of them throughout the summer. However, a really old one can be brittle, so check it out before you haul it home. The next cheapest would be a sheet of heavy black plastic. But that can be puntured or torn fairly easy.

A better option is a poly tarp, which will last quite a while underground where no UV light can cause it to deteriorate. Poly tarps are available in different thicknesses and sizes, up to 40' x 60'. Buy the industrial strength one if you can afford it, and get one large enough to cover the whole flower bed.

An alternative option for a liner is landscape fabric. The commercial grade stuff is much thicker and is available in a 6 ft. or 12 ft. wide roll, 300 ft. long.

And finally, the best material for a root proof barrier is a synthetic rubber liner which can be purchased from a water garden supplier (a "pond liner") or from a roofing supplier because the same material is used on flat roofs. It will last much longer than any of the other previously mentioned materials, and the seams can be glued tight so there's no chance for roots to get through.

Regardless of the material you choose, proper installation of the liner is essential. Any breech- the slightest tear or hole- will seriously compromise its integrity. Seams must be impervious. The liner must come all the way up out of the ground, and can be fastened to a strip of lawn edging or landscape timber if desired. Be careful not to puncture the liner with a shovel or garden stake once it's installed.

Beside preventing root competition, a liner has additional benefits. By in large, a liner keeps out ground moles which otherwise would be tunneling through your flowers. And if the liner is leak proof, it can serve as a constant water reservoir, reducing the frequency and expense of regular irrigation.

Hope that helps answer some questions about installing a root proof liner. Don